So the alarm switch on this digital clock is clearly designed to fail after a few hundred cycles, it's basically a couple pads on the PCB with a piece of metal on the bottom of a plastic slide switch. The copper had completely worn through making the switch inoperable.
Just buy a new clock? Hell no, this clock is LOUD and and I like it. So I harvested a toggle switch from an old dead JR PROPO XP8103 I had laying around for parts and soldered a new switch to that shit. Those switches are rated for 1 million cycles so problem solved.
kek, I like it anon
frick the treadmill economy and meaningless work
Good job
I've got a jambox with a very weird slider switch that I need to replace
Can't find one
Don't even really know how to look for one
So considering a similar three position monstrosity
>So considering a similar three position monstrosity
It's a two position switch the center pole connects to one side or the other.
This is a three position slide switch of cheap plastic. Middle and "down" lock for off and on respectively.
But "up" is a momentary that's spring loaded, so you retain it there for five seconds to enter Bluetooth pairing mode and then release.
I don't need the spring and can flip on my own
just fine. A huge stem sticking out doesn't really bother me, because it lives on a desk now and doesn't pack travel.
>Have you tried Digikey or Mouser
And Newark. Until my eyes bled.
It's one of those situations where if you don't know what you're looking for you'll never find it.
But I figured I'll manage with something else that's more durable anyway.
Have you tried Digikey or Mouser, or maybe an online guitar store that sells parts for music equipment?
>leaded solder
>leaded solder
Yes 63/37 Sn/PB. Lead free solder is garbage and belongs in the garbage. Setting aside the issue of wetting and temperature it's also a lot less reliable.There is a reason they still use Sn/Pb in spaceflight if they use lead free crap whatever it is would not be functioning by the time it reached it destination due to tin whiskers and tin blight, which mixing lead with the tin prevents.
Do you also only buy military grade parts? No?
Leaded solder is good enough for hobby work. You're just poisoning yourself and the environment for nothing.
piss off, I for one support OP's military grade alarm clock and I hope it's so loud that when it goes off it even wakes YOU up
>You're just poisoning yourself and the environment for nothing.
Metallic lead (as opposed to water soluble lead compounds) is perfectly safe so long as you take reasonable precautions. Lead free solder is why electronics don't last as long as they used to, tin whiskers + fine pitch electronics (which definitely includes today's SMT stuff) is a bad combination. So you use less lead but also end up with more stuff going to landfills. Also the more aggressive synthetic fluxes used with lead free solder are more toxic than rosin which is literally just tree sap.
good on you, OP