Welcome to another shitty blogpost where I will share my "progress" trying to get shiny paint from a can of hammerite.
Pic related is my best attempt so far
Welcome to another shitty blogpost where I will share my "progress" trying to get shiny paint from a can of hammerite.
Pic related is my best attempt so far
There is a high spot in the paint and the black is coming through the green
So I decided: fuck it, lets start again, this time from bare metal
>riken sandpaper
wasn't aware they actually made sandpaper in japan, thought it was all in korea.
Didn't pay much attention to the brand of sandpaper, only grit. Is there a big difference between manufacturers?
I have no idea. It was just surprising to see something so mundane being made in a first world country and not just shat out of a chinese factory (or worse, india).
a ton, and even grit doesnt compare as there exist like 3 grating systems and manufacturers seldom specify on that
Most paint shops can put paint in a spray can. If you don't have a sprayer, you may want to go that route. You will most likely never get a perfectly smooth finish with a roller.
Without finishing? You're probably right. But even sprayed paint needs finishing and polishing to be completely smooth so I am going with the "fuck it" route. I'll just lay thick coats of paint let it harden and polish it to a mirror finish. Don't see a reason why I can't do that.
Does anyone know why the white spots appear when polishing?
(Also I know I fucked up with the air bubbles, ignore that)
The white spots are probably the remains of high spots, they skinned over over first and did not have a chance to fully cure before sanding/polishing, the lighter colored dust sticks to it causing them to stand out.
I've had pretty good luck getting a glossy finish using Rust-oleum industrial enamel with a hardener, thinned with a dash of acetone and a little bit of penetrol, although pretty much any oil based enamel should work. I've been trying to get the hang of spraying so that's what I use most frequently, but I've also rolled it on with a foam cabinet roller and had pretty decent results, just google "Rustoleum car paint job" or something along those lines. The key is to experiment with the consistency, you want it thin enough that it will "Level" at whatever your normal thickness is but not run, you can get away with much more if your panel is horizontal. Also keep in mind the hardener is probably a fairly nasty carcinogen, so a respirator and gloves wouldn't be a bad idea ever for a roller.
I've also used real automotive base/clear to repaint a few panels on a truck, their main advantage is they cure chemically, so the paint hardens to a point where dust won't stick in under an hour and is ready to buff/polish (only needed if you screwed up spraying) within 12 hours to a day, with rustoleum and hardener I would still wait a week just to make sure it's good.
You are not supposed to polish paint at all. If you are going for the eternal gloss finish, you need a polyester coating.
I cant stress this enough, paint is never supposed to be polished. I dont know why the fuck you got this idea in the first place.
The only reason to ever use sand paper on a painted surface is to make sure the next later of paint sticks properly to the surface. One could argue that using very fine (1300+) sand paper on 90 gloss paint is a good idea for a finish, but thats literally to make it less glossy, and also im not going to make that argument because thats not your problem. Use a polyester coating
So basicly, sanding a painted surface causes one out of one very predictable result. You remove the gloss, which directly translates into making the next layer of paint adhere properly. You are always supposed to sand a painted surface before painting it again for this exact reason.
This goes for glossy paint, normal wall/ceilling paint doesnt give a fuck about this and should never be sanded
What the fuck are you talking about lmao
What kind of wifes tale did you read about never polishing paint?
Do whatever you want, i do this for a living. My journeymans letter for reference
Okay, you got my attention
Why should I never polish paint?
You should always sand before painting, to make it adhere properly. Sanding removes gloss. If you want more gloss you want a polyester product, topcoat for boats comes to mind. You can polish that shit into shining like a cats shit in moonlight.
A good rule of thumb for polyester:
2% hardener is good
20% and you started a fire
Spar varnish is what it's called.
...I am sanding to flatten the surface
Then wetsand with 600 and 1200
And then polish it using polishing compound in two stages. I seriously do not understand what point you are trying to make, the reflective properties depend on how flat your paint surface is.
No.
Painting a non-flat surface is retarded to begin with. Flatten it before painting.
The gloss of the paint is written on the bucket, for hammerite its 70 (for the oil based one). Generally 90 is max. You will not get more gloss from "polishing" paint. Only less . Once again, use a polyester product for more gloss. Top coat springs to mind
This particular paint is very well suited for bathrooms or kitchens. Its very durable and washable. The gloss of this paint is 20. This is not confusing.
Doing anything to the finished surface will reduce the gloss. You will never achieve more than 20 with this particular paint. This is true for all plastic/acrylic/oil based paints. Which is to say all kinds
>Doing anything to the finished surface will reduce the gloss.
Any particular reason why? I don't see what prevents me from buffing gloss paint with 3000 grit and making it shine
The properties of the paint is why. The product is created to specifically give the gloss printed on the bucket. If they wanted to sell a product with more gloss they would. Paint in general is not a strong surface compared to other stuff. Doing anything to it will always make it weaker, not stronger
It's like I am talking to a brick wall. Surface is flat, sanded cleaned and dry. Hammerite "smooth" isn't really smooth and creates this surface (pic related) and I cannot use regular thinners because this specific paint gums up.
Use a brush or increase the amount of water vapor in the room in which you are painting. Alternatively thin the paint. Turpentine is usually it for oil based paints.
Also dont expect a cleaner surface than that. If you want a mirror, use polyester
Sit
What are you doung?
There was a guy that painted his car with a roller using rustoleum paint and it turned out amazing.
The secret is to thin it out and use many coats. He used a foam roller.
Many layers of thin coat aren't much better than few thick coats, it cures to the same shit. It just makes the drying faster.
Also hammerite is a thick as fuck, needs a thick coat to self level, and you cannot use normal thinners on it either.
godspeed
Hammerite is a pretty decent oil based paint. It doesnt give a fuck about nicotine or rust, or fly poop, or any other bullshit that usually runs through the coating. For gloss its around 70, making it potentially "high" gloss.
Im not entirely sure what your goal is, if you are just going for "shiny" you are using the wrong product. Hammerite is a pretty decent product.