I've been using chop saws with abrasive discs for almost two years now, I've cut angle pieces, flat bar, tube, square tube, etc. and I've never had a problem with it. I always let the wheel regain speed a couple of times in between sections of the cut, specially at the end of the cut as to have a little burr as possible (I don't like filing or grinding that shit off).
Well this guy who just arrived presses on the machine really hard, almost to the point of stalling, his pieces are always with a ton of burr and they almost glow red hot, he tells me that while filing or grinding burr is bothersome, it's better for the disc and the machine.
I've read about how as the disc's diameter becomes smaller, it technically rotates at a lower speed and therefore results in less clean cuts, so I can't see why my method would be wrong, letting the disc gain more speed would result in cleaner cuts
Am I really in the wrong though? Am I the idiot here?
i hope moron's pieces aren't going to anything structural as "red hot" means the heat treat is now fricked
>heat treat is now fricked
>heat treat
>mild steel
And how are these going to be installed?
With a welder?
Last I heard, these melt steel.
Nah man it's not jet fuel
>i hope moron's pieces aren't going to anything structural
Structural welders cut with acetylene, not a disc
No, basic physics says the faster and lighter the cut the better fpr both the piece and the equipment.
This isn't fricking reddit. Frick your updoots. You are the moron for even posting this question here.
homosexual.
where did the "reddit" touch you anon?
Thanks PrepHole.
I am banned on plebbit for racism and transphobia though
With normal cutting tools like an endmill on a milling machine, there is truth in running a tool harder will actually save tool life.
The same rules don’t apply to an abrasive disc.
In the end who gives a shit. If it were to make a tangible difference in disc life (which it doesn’t, it probably helps it) It takes less time to swap out an abrasive disc every once in a while than doing a second operation to remove burrs
Time is money.
As for the machines motor, it prefers having momentum going into a cut, not being bogged down as hard as it can be with no reprieve.
Just ignore his ass, don’t make your work harder for no good reason
You are all fricked up anyway. Inhaling all that nasty shit. Do yourself a favour and use cold saw or bandsaw. You cheap piss-poor stupid monkeys.
While it depends on the tool and the setup. In this case I would assume you are correct.
1. letting the motor get up to speed and going slower puts less load on the motor
2. if the work piece is getting too hot it could have heat damage, depending on the application this could be a really big deal for liability
3. abrasion systems need a way to eject the build up of removed material, backing off and coming back can help with that
4. may save time overall depending on total time including grinding burrs and such
5. manual says to "ALWAYS EASE THE ABRASIVE WHEEL AGAINST THE MATERIAL when starting to cut. A harsh impact can break the wheel." (I think that is focus more on starting impact)
...
after more looking we have the real answer
Top left of page 11 in Manual clearly say you are correct.
"Once it reaches full speed slowly lower the “D” handle
until the cut-off wheel comes in contact with the material
being cut. Continue to use steady and even pressure to
obtain a uniform cut through the material. Never force the
wheel into the material being cut"
My neighbor does this with his wood saw. He pulls the trigger and starts cutting, never letting it spin up then bogging through the whole cut. It sounds fricking horrible, please don't tell me this is some master technique.
>who'd have thought there was actually a technique
Is he an idiot?
I hate the frickers that do this shit. They frick up the washers that holds the disk.
Tell him that he is a moron for me.