Replacing Complete read drive line and HVAC compressor, drive belt

Soup PrepHole.
Just took in my 2011 Honda CR-V with 200k miles on it for a diagnostic and the two main issues with it are listed above. They quoted me $1895 before tax for parts and labor as far as repairs/replacements go. As someone with light to moderate automotive skills goes, I've got a few questions and would appreciate any feedback.

>Is a Complete Rear Drive line and a Drive Shaft the same thing?
>Could I replace the drive shaft and/or the AC compressor on my own?

$1895 for all of it seems pretty high to me and I'd like to fix as much of it myself as possible.
Thanks in advance, anons.

  1. 2 months ago

    Does your AC not work?

  2. 2 months ago

    If you can get a service manual that can help a lot.

  3. 2 months ago

    Ask them about just removing rear drive. Remove the shaft and just put a cover plate over the rear differential.

    $2k is about right for doing it right. Could probably get them to yeet it out for $500.

    AWD cars are 80% front wheel drive anyway, you won't even notice it unless you actually go off reading or like accelerating uphill in the rain from a stop like a madman

    • 2 months ago

      >Ask them about just removing rear drive.
      Interesting proposal.
      This is a last ditch idea, though. The kind of thing you do when you're going to drive the car into the dirt in 20k/30k miles.
      But stupid computer probably won't let you get away with it. Probably some "traction control" bullshit for AWD. But might run. Might not.
      Honestly, <$2000 at 200k miles is not all that bad. Especially if they warranty the drive train work for another 25k or whatever.

      • 2 months ago

        My 2004 volvo xc90 didn't care, but yours is a little newer. Worth some more research certainlynif you plan to go forward

      • 2 months ago

        >drive it into the ground with 20 or 30k left

        >already has 200k on it
        Where do you think you are

  4. 2 months ago

    You could do it but reading, learning and trying to figure stuff out may very well cost you over 100 hours if you never worked on a car before. For the drive line you’ll have to lift the car on a bridge and renting one for an extended period isn’t cheap. You could do the compressor if you have the manual in a few hours, but I don’t think replacing the drive line yourself would be very time or cost efficient

    • 2 months ago

      >For the drive line you’ll have to lift the car on a bridge and renting one for an extended period isn’t cheap.

      You can and I have R&Ied many drivetrains without a lift AKA bridge and with little fuss. I use stacked rims (they can't tip like jackstands) and wooden cribbing if shimming is needed to support the body or frame depending on vehicle type. (U-pull-it style yards commonly store their inventory on stacked rims for safety.)

      • 2 months ago

        I believe you do and that you manage to do it somewhat safely, but as OP doesn’t seem to have worked on a car before I would strongly advise against jerry rigging the lifting part. One of my neighbours had been doing it for years too, eventually had a 2cv fall on him and died

        • 2 months ago

          Proper use of cribbing is not jerry rigging. Firefighters do it all the time. The advantage of rims over jack stands is stability on any reasonably hard ground. Jack stands sink on any but perfect surfaces, and some of them fail like the HF recalled units. Go try to crush a steel or alloy rim laid sideways. Shimming those with 2x4 and larger is handy for levelling and wood doesn't tend to slip on steel (the reason milling machine movers put a board between forklift tines and the ram when moving knee mills).

          Your neighbor was a moron. The way to succeed is to find and copy success, not just "do stuff" out of ignorance. A vehicle cannot fall THROUGH rims and/or proper cribbing so obviously dead idiot neighbor failed to "capture progress" (the term for cribbing as you go) and earned a fatal attitude adjustment. Dumbfucks will hurt themselves with any equipment. Mechanics who choose to know theory of operation then apply that wisely lead long safe boring lives sans crushing.

          All my assertions re:support are proven long ago and in global use. I don't make shit up and those who do deserve to be crushed.

        • 2 months ago

          OP needs to do some reading too. Noobs should study exhaustively on automotive sites (even asking on PrepHole shows they're lost) and forums.

          Those wanting to learn DIY and get good are wise to replace a large chunk of wasted time (gaming, tranime, anything that doesn't accomplish profitable real world goals) with relentless study. Everything that matters is a solve problem. Find then choose proven solutions. The deadliest DIY mistakes are from overconfident ignorance. I still study constantly despite decades of varied professional and amateur experience. It's free and it works.

  5. 2 months ago

    I don't know anything in particular about CR-V's, but I'd assume the rear drive line is just the drive shaft and those really don't go bad unless damaged. At most it might need a new boot and grease around a slip joint or new u-joints, which you can replace pretty easily with cheap tools.

    AC compressor could be a disaster depending on where it is in the engine bay and depending on how much you have to remove to get to it. Plus you have to evacuate and properly recharge the AC system when you're done.

    Drive belt is going to come off for the AC compressor anyway.

  6. 2 months ago

    I assume you mean "replace rear drive line" it's important to spell shit correctly when asking for help. The first step is to prove to yourself it's actually bad. What are the symptoms? Why do they believe it's bad? 95% of auto techs and shops don't know what they're talking about and are simply interested in selling you the highest cost way of "fixing something". When you call them out on it they'll most likely just cite "muh liability" on why they can't perform a simple, much cheaper repair.

    So before playing in their game of assuming it's bad, what is it doing to make you believe it's bad?

  7. 2 months ago

    Looking at the car I'd estimate the following:
    Drive shaft: 300 bucks, bearings and shit 150, rear differential 500, drive shafts 300, about 5-8 hours work 500.
    Compressor 300, gas filling 200.

    The price seems okay. Looking at the lack of info you give you clearly have not got any experience with anything more than tire changing or maybe switch a serpentine belt.
    If you want to learn to repair your car get something 10-20 years older. You'll ruin your shit elseways.

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