Is my gunsmith going to think I'm a retard for asking him to fix relatively minor cosmetic damage to my wood stocks, that most people would just ignore? I've put some dings into a couple of rifle stocks that I'm way too autistic to ignore, but I don't trust myself to fix them properly
He'll probably still take the job.
I'll think you're a retard, though
you're an absolute gay
what he'll do is he'll get some wood putty on the dings, sand the damaged and surrounding areas, and put new finish on it
all of these things you can do yourself
>wood putty
>not steaming
that's not how it's done, bubba.
Wood putty and JB weld are the ultimate bubba filters.
I've seen bondo used before.
>steaming dried, stabilized wood stock
What the fuck are you on about? You steam out dents, Yes, that is how you do it. The water dries afterwards if the hot iron didn't already do that for you and if it doesn't you use a blow dryer or a heat gun.
No you don't. I bet your stock is lacquered anyway, nobody sells oil finished stocks under $3,000. You cannot steam lacquered wood.
You have to remove the finish to steam out a dent anon. IIRC I did it to a spare 10/22 stock I bought to test finishes on. Remove finish, steam dents to raise them, refinish. It does not work on gouges where the wood fibers are broken, only dents.
No you do not, that is the entire fucking point of steaming. Why do you continue to reply when you had no idea what you were talking about the entire time?
if one were to shoot a .50 api round at an incoming artillery shell and hit it like 2 miles away, would it explode safely or would literally nothing happen and it would just continue truckin towards its target?
I think it would have very minimal impact on the trajectory and definitely wouldn't explode the artillery shell. A 155mm shell would have something 12,800,000 J of kinetic energy. A 50 BMG round would be something like 18,000 J.
It would be like throwing a bicycle in the path of a train.
The question is whether or not the impact is sufficient to set off the explosives in the shell. Bomb squads setting off explosives by shooting them with rifles is well established. Rifle impacts also set off some kinds of explosives like tannerite. So the question is how sensitive is the explosive in the arty shell? There's also the possibility that the hit could activate the shell's fuse, though I imagine that could vary a great deal depending on the type of shell and how its fuse works.
Ultimately it would depend on who fired it? US stuff is all fancy shock proof to the point where it wouldn't bother it. If it's Soviet/Chink/Nork then it will probably somehow circle back and kill the gun crew.
Not really. Russian/Soviet HE stuff is pretty much full of RDX or TNT for the most part. It's not like that stuff is difficult to make for a nation that's industrially producing munitions.
I don't have books on larger Chinese projectiles in front of me, but their mortars are TNT, pretty standard.
Now the fuzing systems and safety redundancy of those countries vs USA can be different but really that's in other kind of rounds. Larger artillery projectile fuzes are pretty boiler plate stuff that everybody knows how to do.
Oh hey, former EOD here. Main charges on pretty much any factory made munition are going to be insensitive to gunfire. You're talking stuff like RDX main charges, absolutely nothing at all in behavior like tannerite.
>Bomb squads setting off explosives by shooting them with rifles is well established.
Soooo...yes but also no. One use of .50 cals were to remotely disable firing systems in IEDs. You aren't shooting at the explosives, and the intent isn't to blow anything up, but to sever the battery or switch from the explosive. It's a pretty edge case to have this actually happen, since there are usually other, better options but it's happened a few times personally for me.
In the case of 155mm rounds, this might be the 155mm rigged up as an IED. For whatever reason the .50 is the option used. The shooter isn't going to aim at the body of the round but probably at whatever is coming out of the fuzewell in an attempt to sever it from the 155mm. It *might* explode but that' not from the .50 hitting the main charge inside the round but because the bullet hitting the firing system made it complete.
155mm rounds are very thick. I have personally, intentionally, flung 155mm rounds around by placing C4 under them.
>is this- what the fuck?
My god.
It's Gain.
Should I kill myself, i can't take it anymore.
depends, do you find life unbearable?
>do you find life unbearable?
Of course I find life unbearable.
The things and people I care about are all going to die in pain and fear, and I have to watch them slowly either away. I'm forced to watch their bodies give in year by year as basic functions become little torments.
It's worse than that, because as the good is taken from the world the bad progressively mounts. I'm left with those in my life, family members, bosses or what have you, who are increasingly tyrannical and narcissistic, and not only do they get away with it but they get rewarded. No one dares to stand up to their behavior and they just take it. It turns them sour and when I try to help I get punished for my virtues.
Of course life is unbearable, this isn't some woe is me crap, if you aren't willing to be an abusive, narcissistic tyrants who steals and lies and manipulates and causes friction and fighting at every moment of the day for any little things then you aren't going to survive the world with your spirit intact.
Anon, you have to understand that in life you have to find your own happiness. Worrying about others and comparing yourself to them is not the way to go about things. In this life, society's expectations tell us to run and run until we trip, and sure we can get back up but then it depends we run again until our legs break because we can't run that fast. You have to take your time, go at your own pace.
I need a job, do you know anyone who's hiring
The world is disgusting and deHispanicable. Look at how people act and talk and how they treat each other. How can life or humanity possible be redeemable in any way.
I agree. The world sucks ass logs. The one part I can't figure out, Whites are treated like 3rd class citizens all over by everyone including other white people. We should at least treat each other better.
If you two can't handle life then you should just off yourselves
I'm going to crush you
I need some sleep
Time to put the old horse down
I'm in too deep and the wheels keep spinning round
Everyone says I'm getting down too low
Everyone says you just gotta let it go
You just gotta let it go
Wow yeah you should probably have a nice day anon
Solution to your problems: YOU need to fix everything in your life. You seem to care a lot about people, so try and fix them. If you don't care to, then forget about them and focus on yourself. As for material problems, fix those too. Don't tell me "it's impossible". Everything is possible. It can take a week, a month, a year, a decade or even a lifetime, but everything is possible. You need to light a fire in your heart and willingly bear the load of fixing every problem that bothers you. It is by facing every obstacle with a smile and a fierce optimism that you will find fulfillment. That is what men do.
>if you aren't willing to be an abusive, narcissistic tyrants who steals and lies and manipulates and causes friction and fighting at every moment of the day for any little things then you aren't going to survive the world with your spirit intact.
grow up.
you're a weak-willed baby projecting your inadequacy onto everyone else.
you say it's not "woe is me crap" but that's precisely what it is. you want the world to just be fair to you but that's not how the world works. you don't need to be evil if you want to affect change in your life, just ambitious and committed to overcoming negative energies and actors.
>if you aren't willing to be an abusive, narcissistic tyrants who steals and lies and manipulates and causes friction and fighting at every moment of the day for any little things then you aren't going to survive the world with your spirit intact.
sounds like the world would be worse off without you bro
we need more people who aren't NPCs without morals
Learn how to refinish wood. If it's a small dent, it's likely to steam out nicely. Steaming will ruin any finish you have on there, so you can learn how to remove and re-oil finishes.
A lot of close range self defence shootings ive seen video of or have read eyewitness accounts of seem to be comprised of guysdrawing their
handguns and just magdumping without using their sights. Would a laser sight that turns on when the gun is drawn improve hit probability?
Just because there's a laser on the gun doesn't mean someone will choose to look for the dot.
retrvn to grip-activated lasers on hadnguns
Does anybody else shoot their AR with the stock completely collapsed? I feel like making it longer just makes me chicken wing without shooting any better.
yeah i do im 6"1. but i move the gun up high and only use the bottom 3rd of the buttpad on the stock. nose to charging handle is chad.
I'm 6' and use the bottom 2/3rds. Thinking about just 3d printing a lil bitty bingus and ditching the stock altogether.
yea. it moves the center of mass backwards and makes the overall length shorter which is nice. The difference in fully extended and fully collapsed is about the same as a 16 inch and 13.5 inch gun
With all the shitflinging about 5.56 out of 16" vs 20" barrel length, why isn't 18" more popular?
t. Canuck who is quite comfy with an 18.6" carbine
Because 18" is basically as long and heavy as 20" without either the charisma of the M16 or shortness of a 16" gun; it's ballistically fine but the problem is that the American approach to the sturmgewehr concept was "a battle rifle scaled down to be lighter and more controllable on full auto" so the M16 and its derivatives have always suffered from the conflict between that and the original vision of "a SMG scaled up to have more range and stopping power"
Can .50 BMG be shot out of 12.7×108mm guns?
anyone else remember when american military claimed it had developed thermal lasers some years ago, physicists said "lol, lmao" when questioned about it and then we never heard a single peep about it again because it wasn't fucking real
Does one shoot prism sights (1x) with both eyes open like one would shoot a red dot?
Yes. If it's 1x, and therefore not magnified, then always use both eyes
Should I get a custom chassis for my bolt action rifle or just sell the thing and buy a new one that has a factory chassis instead of a synthetic polmer stock
if I'm just trying to color the furniture on my rifle (handguard, stock, & grip), should I do cerakote or will spraypaint work fine?
My collarbone gets beaten until the area is completely sore and bruised when I fire my rifle. Am I genuinely retarded or is it just something I get used to?
You should brace the rifle against yourself and rock with the recoil. If you are holding it loose it could be slapping your shoulder, hence the bruises.
Also what caliber is it? If it's a monster safari rifle that might just not be suitable for a beginner.
It's usually more practical to buy your rifle pre built as close to how you want it configured as possible, I'd go with the latter. Your existing rifle might be worth keeping as a lightweight hunting rifle though.
Cerakote will be more durable, but if you don't mind the spray paint wearing in places and looking a bit ratty it'll do fine for just furniture. Worn rattlecan finish has an aesthetic appeal of it's own.
No. It's a different cartridge and they are not cross compatible.
18" doesn't really do anything for legal compliance and it's not significantly better for performance over 16". There are rifles that use it though, standard Mini-14s for instance use 18" barrels. I got a BRN-180 upper in 18", although it was mostly because it was on clearance since nobody wanted that barrel length.
Ok, maybe I am just not holding the rifle tightly against myself enough if thats what you mean. This may be an issue mainly when I'm prone, because you're kind of forced to move the butt of the rifle towards the chest.
>caliber
.308 winchester
Or the upper part of the chest I should say, feels like its directly placed on the collarbone then
shooting prone does tend to hurt more since your body doesnt move to reduce felt recoil like it would when standing that said, the fact its hurting means you are shouldering it wrong. though exactly what you are fucking up is hard to diagnose over the internet without video footage or something.
I’ve been racking my brain trying to find this video, but I can’t remember. There was some kind of instructional video the US military made using some kind of modified version of the ArmA games about setting up defenses in an area and doing counter-insurgence operations. I think the title was something along the lines of “Battle of…” something. I remember it was memed a lot on k but it was a pretty good video. Does anyone remember the full title?
You’re probably either thinking of the Battle Of Wanat video (real event), or Defense of Jisr Al Doreaa (hypothetical battle).
If you can get past the primitive animation, it’s actually a very informative channel.
https://m.youtube.com/@tbocsims/videos
Why does it feel like so many people sleep on Helikon-Tex? All the reviews I've found praise their durability and that have some really well-designed shit with a lot more utility, for the price point, than somrthing designed stateside.
Is it because they're European or is there some shit that just doesn't get brought up in reviews?
I’ve had some of their pants (UCP?, SFU), wore them often for work, held up good. Sized a little small. Would always find NWOT deals on eBay.
what should I buy on amazon to get free shipping?
I have a few options for you:
>AR grip foreskin
https://www.amazon.com/OZARK-ARMAMENT-Universal-Tactical-Rubber/dp/B0BP9BRG5M/
>Pistol charging stand
https://www.amazon.com/DGWJSU-Nightstand-Gifts-Men-Anniversary/dp/B0C2ZRM9LX/
>Italian milsurp beret
https://www.amazon.com/COMINHKPR69644-Pizza-Hat/dp/B00JPPK2XQ/
>2 in 1 grip bipod problem machine
https://www.amazon.com/ANWEEGO-Black-Bipod-Nylon-Inch/dp/B0C5VFDBWZ/
Or just buy some groceries or whatever. Idk.
What sort of classes should I offer as a firearms instructor? I am marketing currently to the general cc crowd and doing some things in the "countering the mass shooter threat" area, but I would like to branch out into things that aren't as entry level. I have a decent availability for ranges and equipment, and I plan to provide firearms on site in case individuals don't want to deal with the hassle involved with transportation. One early thought is a citizen level "counter-sniper" course, focusing on no fail low probability shots 400 yards and in.
I'll add schizo counter ambush tactics to the course catalog. Shooting at noises, while largely an instinct, is surely a useful skill that should be fostered by all serious gun owners.
A retarded youtube channel might be an asset. Make that stupid black bald guy look like special fucking forces. Africa tier demonstration tactics. Make an instructional video about using a gun with your feet.
There is no possible way to have Voda look competent. I will attempt to acquire Ugandan power armor. As for using guns with your feet, I am acquainted with the anon who submitted his feet pic to Pippa Pipkin and was described as having the "ten out of tenniest feet", so I may have to ask him to assist me, as I believe he can run an akm with only his feet.
>a legit firearms instructor is posting on PrepHole
god help us all
I was a channer before I became an instructor, and you would be surprised how may professionals utilize PrepHole to one extent or another. I would be surprised if a lot of trips haven't gotten some instructor certifications to back up their unhinged ramblings.
> How not to get shot by the police when/if they show.
There are multiple videos online that cover that sufficiently, and I also cover that already under the concealed carry and home defense fundamentals course, which includes police interactions in multiple circumstances. As a primer, it mostly breaks down to identifying yourself to the responding officer(s) and following orders, requesting an ambulance, and informing them that you will not answer questions without a lawyer present. This is where having carry insurance, such as the USCCA, is important for the proceedings. Additionally, the USCCA makes available, for free, information on their website and socials that cover this in depth. No insurance required. If you do decide to get insurance, which is a good idea imo, you will also have access to even more information and classes, which will honestly help you more than the insurance itself as it may help keep you out of instances in the first place.
Also just remember not to be weird with cops. If you're weird, they'll take that as a clue. Don't be weird, guy.
could a late war BF-109 win a dogfight with an A-10?
someone's trying to convince me the old German plane wins since it's faster and more maneuverable
I found this cool old pistol case. What gun would this be for? Muzzle to hammer is 10 inches.
Got some reasonable guesses in handgun general.
if it's not marked for specific item couldn't it just be a non-specific pistol case?
bergmann?
What caliber are those bullet holders?
Yo are noveske barrels actually good? I thought stainless steel barrels had short barrel life?
Look up the US Army tests of steel vs. chrome lined. They found a durability difference only when shooting bimetal jackets. And you could get your rifle rebarreled several times with the money you'd save shooting out your first barrel with cheaper bimetal ammo.
I like stainless because I never have to worry about getting rained on or cleaning my gun immediately after a hunt or any of that crap.
What is the stock belt loop for Safariland 6005s supposed to loop onto? It doesn't fit on my ALICE belt. Do you put it under the duty belt on your pants loop?
>being such a soiboi that you're worried about what a smith thinks about you for paying for minor repairs
Fucking have a nice day
as a bonus use one of the now pristine guns but cover it in cling wrap so it stays fresh so the caps and paramedics don't judge you too hard
what's the target load of choice for shotguns?
i'm not a complete noob with guns, i like my rifles and pistols. i just know nothing about shotguns. my 12ga hasn't seen the light of day in literally years now, and i want to get some practice in with it. the problem is that i have no idea what to get for target ammo because there's about a thousand different loads. buckshot? birdshot? 7/8/9 shot? slugs? if i go with shot, what kind of shot within those subgroupings? my shotgun can take 2.75"/3" shells, which makes more sense?
so tldr i'm not training shotgun because i know nothing about shotguns and more specifically shot shells, and i want to fix that
get the three inchers. you'll get extra velocity out of them, makes your patterns smaller.
three inch what though
>>the problem is that i have no idea what to get for target ammo
It's not hard, anon you just have to decide what kind of training you want to do. The tactical crowd shoots slugs and buckshot at static targets. You will want low-recoil loads because you will be shooting a lot and the power doesn't actually matter. Training with 3" shells is retarded. Most people shoot shotguns at clay pigeons, i.e. Skeet, Trap, 5-stand, and Sporting Clays. Shotshells will be specifically advertised for this, look for the clay pigeon on the box. They will be 1-11/4oz loads of 9 thru 7 shot, different people have different preferences. Good examples are Winchester AA, Remington STS, etc.
>my shotgun can take 2.75"/3" shells, which makes more sense?
There's almost never a reason to use 3" shells except if you're hunting ducks/geese and you are forced to use steel shot because of environmental laws.
enough.
the 12ga gods have spoken and they say....
9 pellet 00 buck
if you really want it to hurt get 9 pellet 00 w/ flight control wad. acceptable results to 40-50 meters.
I'll steal this from Clint "with the right load and the right range a shotgun will take a chuck of shit out of your enemy and place it on the wall behind him."
just to give you an idea 00 is around .30cal give or take a few hundredths.
00 9P Flight Control from my SBS, the, from between 10-30 ft.
The 8 pellet flight control is more consistent
Im leaving this pic for this anon
Not my best work but i hope you are satisfied. Im low on free time and half my shit dont work no more.
Anyways
>hey anon help me toss these car batteryes into the sea
>Then we can go force some black kids to mine cobalt.
Not the anon that asked, but thanks.
> Would take for a ride in my 20yo diesel car.
I will just mark this anon here in hopes he finds this more easily
What's the ideal gauge / barrel length for a shotgun intended for clays & hunting? For a total beginner to both.
I don't know about ideal, but I do know from working at an Academy for six months that 12 and 20 gauge are common, and companies like Monarch and Winchester sell ammo explicitly marketed toward those activities.
If I'm getting burst vessels / bruising am I not shouldering it firmly enough or am I just a moron?
Yes
You're not shouldering it properly. Even something relatively mundane like a .308 can turn you black and blue with bad technique. I know from experience
I've gotten sore but never any visible burst vessels. what are you shootting?
your stock might be wrong. I can mainline my .458 lott without bruising, but the goddamned SB3 brace of my .458 Socom AR always leaves those purple marks you are referring to.
I think it's just your stock choice.
Soft rubber recoil pads bruise my skin just from shouldering the rifle, not even firing it. Hard rubber doesn't do this.
Can you reuse front sight posts for ARs when swapping out old barrels for new ones?
Does anybody know of decent 12ga buck that runs shorter than average in terms of shell length? My tube is marketed as 6 rounds but I recently discovered that 7 of the cheap Fiocchi target loads I've got around fit and cycle fine, and comparing them to the buck I've got they're about 1-2mm shorter, so if I could find some slightly below average buck I could get an extra round of capacity.
What's a lightweight scope with adjustable parallax below 100 yards?
Or better yet what's a decent website I can use to filter and sort scopes in a sensible way that would make it easy to find scopes like that?
Please reiterate, 100 yds? Do you mean the parallax setting below that point? Have you possibly considered looking into methods of eye/sight positioning that mitigate parallax error? What specific distance are you intending to shoot at, and for what discipline?
Poor: search "parallax scope" on Amazon.
Not poor: Hawke. Some (all?) of their scopes have parallax adjustment down to 10 yards. They're marketed for airgun competition but rated for powder burners.
When I take my LCP Max to the range, after about 5 mags I begin to get feeding issues. Checking the inside of the gun there is a lot of brass flakes and brass residue buildup. This has happened multiple times. I take the gun home, give it a deep cleaning, then take it to the range and in that five or so mags it builds up brass residue.
Is this normal for an LCP? Are they just really harsh on brass? It’s not the biggest problem since it’s a pocket gun with one mag when CCW’d and the first mag always runs great, but I’m just wondering.
sounds like an ammo issue, change ammo and report back, also check for any obvious burrs if you haven't already. have you examined the extracted cases? is the damage in the same location and same pattern every time?
What is a good LPVO and thermal clip on combo
I'm bored with my .22 pistol, drunk, just paid my rent and I've got three grand in the bank account still. Should I go buy a cheap pump action twelve gauge for shits and giggles?
save your money for a bad day $3000 is just one shitty emergency room bill
Damn you, voice of reason.
I bought a vintage Bushnell Sharpshooter 4x32 like pic rel. The turrets have no clicks, just smooth movement. They adjust predictably and seem to hold zero on a 22LR. But are they supposed to have clicks? I've never seen a scope without clicks.
Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?
762x51 NATO should be compatible with any rifle in 308, yeah? I picked up a bolt action savage today and some 762 along with it to test it out, and I'm running into some issues loading it into the magazine - both from the top and directly into - as well as having difficulties having the bolt successfully close when inserting a round into the breech. I might just be having the mother of all retard moments as this is the first bolt action I've bought so may be missing something, but I've had little trouble loading magazines in other calibers.
Yeah, external dimensions are the same and 308 is rated for higher pressure than 7.62x51. The only sketchy combination would be hot 308 in an old milsurp 7.62.
i will just assume i am going full retard then and be a bit more forceful and pray to god i don't become "ND is a normal part of gun ownership" anon personified
It could be a headspace issue on the gun (though that wouldn't explain the magazine problem) or a bad batch of ammo with the bullets not seated properly. Or it could be a retard moment. Be careful and good luck.
it's ok the issue really was just me being a moron and not being forceful enough thank you anons
Should I trade my Ruger PC Carbine 9mm for a Norinco SKS? Its got the magpul backpacker stock; if I do trade, should that go with it, or is the trade worth it for the person with SKS with the stock stock
i don't know about the value relative of your carbine, but make sure that norinco works before buying it. I bought one from an LGS once and every time I fired it the magazine would fall out. a fun way to find out the magazine well was fucked
How do you avoid being a min-maxing autist when it comes to gun purchases? It's pissing me off.
Just buy guns you see in movies and then force yourself to use them.
what do you guys think is a fair price for a CZ-75B Omega? $650?
Shit bro you been under a rock? CZ's are going for sub $500 nowadays.
If you’re in the US, check out Family Firearms out of Troy, AL.
in b4 shill I just bought my P-10C there.
I'm trying to sell mine used, I was a retard when I bought it and paid $720 for it from buds gun shop. the lowest I see omegas going for is like $575. Maybe I should just match that.
honestly I really hate this thing. the trigger sucks and it has a small and expensive aftermarket because it uses a different trigger system than the regular 75. all stuff I couldn't have really known until owning it because hardly anyone buys these without spending another $500 on CGW parts and guntubers will pick up literally any gun and say "yeah this shoots real nice trigger feels really crisp"
Hello PrepHoleomrades
does anyone have an m70 zpap and a set of calipers?would they would be willing to measure the OD of the threaded portion of the barrel? I have a zpap and the muzzle brake is about 1mm off time, I wish to order some timing washers but cannot find any for "14x1"(strange considering if you search 5.56 timing washer plenty of results show.) so I will order by size instead.
Funny enough I wanted one for my WASR because my AMD muzzle brake wobbled for the same reason; not quite timed perfectly. It was really hard to find any and all I found was some funny looking ones that went around the (muzzle device detent/indexing) pin instead of putting a hole in the washer. Just wanted a crush washer and still don't have one because indecisive.
if I got a Maverick 88 with a 28" barrel would it be very hard to swap out the barrel with a slightly shorter one later on?
Also does anyone else not like when a shotgun magazine is way shorter than the barrel? It feels like a waste.
All mossberg 500 barrels are compatible except the 20" because it has a unique mag tube length. Swapping them is just opening the action and unscrewing it from the mag tube.
The short length of the mag tube is for a variety of reasons. One is because it can't stick out past the 18.5" home defense barrels or they wouldn't be able to be mounted on the gun, and all the other lengths need a consistent place to be mounted for convenience of swapping. Another reason is because the long barreled hunting guns can only be loaded with 3 shells legally (depends on what you're hunting, and they come with a removable wooden dowel in the mag tube that limits them to 2+1) and the extra weight is a waste for a super long mag tube
Great, thanks. They don't make 7+1 mag tubes, do they?
is the carry handle on an OTs-14 Groza detachable?
Looks like a dovetail with a sling swivel locking bolt
is this a good deal on 22? I haven't checked the market in a little while and I'm tired of lead round nose
6.2cpr but free shipping
>$124.99
>500rd box
>125 / 500 = ...
>$0.25/rd .22lr
FUCK no.
>6.2cpr
How the fuck are you getting that?
its 2000 rounds. its just packaged in 4 500 round boxes
Ah, I see. Looks like you can get it for $107 on BeeBe Firearms if you buy it by the 50rd box (40 boxes to equal 4 500rd boxes if I'm doing my math right). IIRC I bought through them once; maybe not as I did have some stuff in my cart yet. Free shipping if you'd buy 80 boxes ($200 or over). That would be $0.053/rd pre tax. Looks to be one of the cheapest options for Aguila that doesn't have high shipping.
https://ammoseek.com/ammo/22lr/Aguila
thanks
YW. Aguila smells a little funny, it's a little waxy, but it mostly runs smooth in my 10/22. It runs really smooth now that I've broken it in more and gotten more than just 2 BX15s to spread out the filth of .22. I hunt small game with the hollowpoints and haven't really had any complaints. It's just waxy and dirty but that's .22 for you. Now that the heat of the summer is mostly gone, the wax is much less of a concern as it won't make the bullets (not the case) so sticky. I like that I can target shoot with my hunting ammo as well (hollowpoints) due to its price too.
Don't know if you've ever bought it before so I thought I'd mention it.
nah I've only ever bought CCIs, thanks for the heads up. Any other recs for stuff that's copper plated?
>Any other recs for stuff that's copper plated?
Not really; I only shoot Aguila these days as while the stickiness isn't fun, it doesn't really affect anything. Federal wasn't really great IME and I didn't want to buy CCI unless I was buying their Quiets due to slightly higher CPR. Blazer was okay IIRC but I last bought them a couple years ago. And actually Blazer is made by CCI. Super shiny. Not sure if they make copper plated ammo. I really don't think I've ever shot anything else other than Remington (shorts) and that was before they (their ammo division) got sold off to PSA.
>Garbage mexican Bulk ammo for almost the same price as Federal Punch
Yikes, just get mini mags at that point.
can you use pussy juice as lubricant?
What's a CHEAP AS FUCK
Side by side double barrel
12 gauge shot gun
That JUST WERKS?
Stogers i guess.
Baikals
Gunbrooker
Even turkshits cant fuck those up too badly (tristar is a turkish importer)
especcially if they have dual triggers which are easyer to make then a selector
Otherwise sxs gats have been relegated to (at least with garden gnomeropean manifacturers as higher end guns due to lower demand (o/u and semi being the dominant hunting/ sporting gats). Some americunts still make basic bitch sxs .
nothing you search for and buy online is going to be cheaper than looking around at a few gun stores for a used double barrel
What should I do if I need a cheek riser for my rifle, but I can't find any to buy online? Can I make one? How would one go about doing that?
>Can I make one? How would one go about doing that?
A rag. Tape. Bundle rag into shape desired. Tape around it with electrical tape. Tape around stock with taped rag on top. Yes that's how you halfass it. Yes that's how many marksmen in the military do it on bolt actions, or so I'm told. It's not great and requires a lot of fiddling and fucking around but if your stock is plastic it literally can't hurt. If it's wood, you'll probably hurt your finish when you peel the tape. It will get you by until you get a real riser, at least. Just remember that it will strip varnish off wood probably. And the residue will have to be removed from plastic with alcohol. On wood...soapy water maybe. No alcohol in case it's shellac. Use Dawn. I've tried it. Wasn't my thing. But it didn't cost shit.
It's an all plastic gun, not worried about the finish or even really how it looks. Do people do this as a permanent solution? I don't really care how it looks so if it holds up I wouldn't mind. I kinda need a decent amount more height though.
From what I can tell, people do use it as a permanent solution. Problem for me is that I always worry about "what if that shit gets moldy in there" since it's a cotton or polyester dish/wash rag inside a plastic tape wrap. I can't remember where I've seen it. I remember some channel I watch must've introduced me to the idea. But it seems I did watch this at some point: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DA5pqe2LljE
My biggest issue with it is with certain rifles with a requirement for a retarded amount of riser height is that the front and back of the pad are a bitch to cover with electrical tape or even cloth medical tape. That guy uses that rubbery "vet tape" on his gun which seems to work better but I can still imagine it might have issues depending on how high your riser is. Also, it's somewhat difficult to get a nice "hard" edge instead of a weird blob you can't reliably index your face on consistently.
I would recommend going and looking at options in person highly. Much better than online since you can actually see them and at least visualize what it would look like on your gun with a better sense of scale. However, the cheap option with tape and a rag can let you know in advance (for basically nothing) how high of a riser you need before even buying something which IMO is priceless instead of guessing.
>it's somewhat difficult to get a nice "hard" edge instead of a weird blob you can't reliably index your face on consistently.
add cardboard to stiffen it
like a sock folded over a fewtimes with some cardboard in it
Interesting idea there anon. Might have to try it if I ever get another plastic stocked rifle with a shitty cheekweld. I mostly have wood so I'd rather use a slip on riser to avoid taping but I'll have to keep that in mind.
And if you don't want to halfass it, there are options. I don't recommend anything that's squishy. You want something firm that will keep your head in the same spot for every shot. How well does the cheek riser stay in place from shot to shot or while moving or hunting? Ehh, YMMV. I can't say; never had one except a super cheap velcro on hard rubber riser. Thing wouldn't stay in place for shit; there's a reason I got it for ~$0.50 at a flea market. That didn't have an extra strap around the butt of the rifle. If the one you buy does, you'll probably be better off since it can't inch forward on the stock.
https://www.midwayusa.com/cheek-rests/br?cid=21085
Hey thanks. I didn't know these universal options existed. I bet one of the big box stores near me like bass pro or turner's outdoorsman will have these. I might shop around.
What’s a good starter rifle for areas with dangerous game? I just came from grizzly country and would like to go back. Currently got a SW460 which with bear spray is enough for defense, but I’m starting to like the idea of having an all purpose lever rifle that can handle both defense and hunting. I was thinking a Henry side gate 45-70 lever rifle, but I’m new to this and don’t know much about moderate to high caliber rifles. 100% open to any suggestions or tips, resources, etc. Next summer I’m thinking of Bering land bridge and gates of the arctic as potential general areas
45/70 has been used to kill bears for a long time. Just remember they're usually heavy ass rifles
Watch recommendations? Going for a classy prepper kind of look.
How to tell Fagot launchers apart? What are the visual differences between a 9P135, a 9P135M, a 9P135M3 and a 9S451M2?
http://www.army-guide.com/eng/product3319.html
tl;dr:
It's such an old system it's easier to just call it the same and assume it is of a later model as the only visual identifiers short of reading the components are:
9P135 does not accept flare-ended Konkurs missile tubes while 9P135M onwards does
9P135M3 and 9S451M2 have the picrel TPVP thermal sight with the latter also weighing an extra kilogram to accomodate optical dazzling countermeasures, might have a slight difference to accomodate that but such autism would be hard to find even for western equipment
The differences of thermal night sight and type of missile loaded are the only real differences in capability anyways. The upgrades are mostly about upgrading electronics and software and compatibility with newer missiles so little outside differences. In addition to this the launcher is a modular system so the identical looking components are easily changed out and upgraded.
My last dog (german pointer) bit the proverbial dust due to a wolf choking him (never made a peep) anyone know of any dog armor with a stiff collar to prevent that?
>pic kind of related
We solved this problem a long time ago. Like many problems, it can be solved with giant fucking spikes.
>HAHA I'M GOING TO BITE YOU IN THE THROAT!
>OH FUCK OH FUCK I GOT STABBED IN THE MOUTH!
forgot pic
yea, hunting dog who likes birds, heavy brush + spikes, i dont think its going to work that well
Then get one with smaller spikes or ones that point different all that matters is heavy leather to protect the throat and something that'll hurt a lot if bitten
Basically a thick, stiff, wide/broad leather collar with some metal studs that are kind of pointy?
>pic related could work
if spikes be too long i can always file the brass down .
If i add a catch vest (meant for wild boars but it is puncture resistant to an extent) it could work. To prevent most lufe threatening injuries
Thnx bro
Might work, ideally though you want something that will actually cut if bitten though.
Just something that prevents the trachea from crushing under a bite , like a thicc and stiff(and wide) leather collar with some metal reinforcements like a really big metal nameplate . If trachea gets crushed the dog cant make a sound and i can't help it. Other things require a bit more time to do a dog in (maybe a bite to the nape will instakill but a "catch vest"/ neckguard used for boar dogs should prevent punctures).
Maybe i will just hammer a plate into shape and rivet it to a wide leather collar. Im currently weighing my options and it seems to me that a DIY solution (example metal
plate reinforced collar) combined with some readymade ones (aramid catch vest) will be necesery . I saw a vid of those catch vests in action a big boar bit a huntingdog (a fairly large one) and tossed him around a bit but the doggo was fine. Also a vid of a dog wearing a steel plated predator vest with spikes and shit(gopro dog POV) surviving a pack of wolves for 10 minutes, dog was a bit fucked up but lived.
I always figured when that stuff happened dogs went quiet out of submission like that one dog pet cheetah attack vid.
Oh hell that makes perfect sense. I always just though spiked collars were only for aesthetic reasons
Check out wolf collars. Here's a sheep dog that was successfully saved from the wolves that were trying to kill him after he protected the sheep.
sorry about your dog anon 🙁
So guys. Hear me out. Do you think I could convince Keltec to make a lever action box fed .357 magnum with a 10 inch barrel and a folding "pistol" brace that could fit in a backpack and market it as a survival gun?
As is frequently the case: with enough coke, yes.
How much should I sell my Sig 556 with a Troy rear and a Midwest Indsturies front for?
I bought it for $900 back in 2013, and want to get into an AR-15 now.
I'm left handed and just getting into guns. What are some nice guns for lefties? I got an AR-15 and I plan to get another that's left-eject and suppress it. Money is no object. And also I live in Maryland 🙁
Ejection issues are overblown. You don’t need a left handed upper because of ejection. The brass deflector works just fine.
Here’s how you make an AR 100% comfy as a southpaw: Install an ambi-safety, install a non-latching charging handle. Done.
AKs are very good as a lefty, you can reload and rack the gun without having to reach over it.
Tavors with a left handed ejector are pretty good. My favorite bullpup. Bullpups are the only common rifle where being left handed can be an issue regarding ejection.
Please do not reach over the AK or it will break your wrists (and your wallet but most importantly it will break your heart) the AK is intend to be racked and reloaded with right hand only. The AK only wants a shoulder to rest on and a hand to hold it tight and keep it stable. Unless you own picrel, of course, which doesn't deserve the love it gets from weirdos who mark these up, in that case you tear the dust cover off (unless you intentionally lost it), then pull that whole bolt assembly out and start cramming rounds in because the magazine release broke when you first bought the piece of crap.
Missing the forest for the trees. I’m left handed like the anon asking questions. For left handers the awkward various techniques for racking AKs are a non-issue. That’s why I suggested AK. We don’t have to have long discussions on reach under or over.
You reach to the side my guy... that's what it says in the owner's manual.
Again missing the point that left handed shooters get to ignore all that, and get a much more natural manual of arms.
My biggest issue with a right-handed upper is the brass deflector and FA constantly poking me when the rifle is slung in front of me.
Have you tried not living in Maryland?
ruger makes their competition 10/22 as a lefty version, I know someone who bought one last year and has been very happy with it
t. noAKs
About how much money will it cost me to start getting into reloading if I am starting with nothing
I will be reloading only .357 mag and .308 win
Ask in the reloading general they know more especially about this but:
Didn't price out .308 but for .357 1000 rounds reusing brass, components would be about 200 bucks or 20 cpr a couple cents lower if you buy in more bulk and can find even cheaper bullets.
In terms of presses the two absolute cheapest options would be ~$200 for a cheap single stage with appropriate dies, mounts etc. for one cartridge(add about $100 for .308 too), or ~$90 for two ($40 Lee Loader Classic .357 set and $50 for the .308 set) Lee Loader Classics which are everything you need but absolutely nothing more. For both you would also want an okay digital scale for more accurate powder measuring if you care about consistency. The difference is while both are quite slow compared to reloading presses that are easily 4x the cost, the Classic will be around twice as slow as instead of removing a case, placing a case, pumping a lever to complete a single stage you're replacing the lever pull with tapping the die that fits in the palm of a child with a mallet on your tabletop.
The Classic is still absolutely a valid option and will produce fine reloads though and is probably the perfect option for a beginner as it'll be a lower cost of entry and always be something small and handy to have around while a cheap single stage press would end up replaced eventually as it's still much too slow for any serious bulk reloading.
When the fuck were these used? It's od green but the back is velcro so it's not a sew on but this doesn't fit the US Army Uniform Lore, or any of the branches for that matter to my knowledge. It's also sewn exactly how issued rank patches were so this isn't some kind of one off thing.
Looks like something 509th would wear.
This being an opfor rank raises even more questions honestly
Unlikely but can anyone find a picture of a "Project KS-701" Russian Coast Guard Patrol Boat? I think I found a relatively authoratative source to prove it exists but I can't find images from the russian or Khazakhstani coast/border guards as it claims.
http://russianships.info/eng/borderguard/project_ks701.htm
It's a 2-3 ton boat that fits 2 people but all I can find are much larger projects. Maybe part of the issue is it's extremely minor boats at a weird tine(early 20120s)?
Reason for this is the sketchy looking video ukraine navy uploaded today apparently it is legitimate but it'd be nice to have pictures of such an obscure vessel.
What belt should I get for conceal carry? I want something that still looks like a normal dress belt, I've been eyeing pic-related and the ciguera gear emissary edc ones. I am trying to carry a sw shield aiwb comfortably.
Is that just a normal belt? Are you asking for just normal belt recommendations?
NTA but that belt is two strips of leather with an equal size kydex strip sandwiched in-between. It stiffens it so your belt doesn't bend so much, which is useful to keep holsters in place when drawing and prevent your holster from moving around too much. Leather belts can get close but the kydex provides an extra bit of stiffness.
t. looked into some and talked to a holster maker
Planning on selling a 16" ruger AR upper and a 11.5" FM15 upper. How much should I expect to get? I can get a decent idea from the FM15 upper since theyre sold on their own, but I cant find a single listing anywhere for a ruger AR upper by itself
CAN ANYONE
please post those pics of all the asian russians fighting for russia in ukraine
like the one with the working dog and they're all holding potatoes or some shit
in exchange I will dig around on my machine for and eventually post one of those glavset psyop pics where there's a bunch of obvious asiatics dressed as ukranians and americans, from the same ops where they made the tiny HATO BIOWEPON drones and the pitifully fake biolab
if anyone has those last two pics I'll take those too
thanks bros happy labor day
temp self bump with most relevant thing I've found so far
I will start going to the range in 3 weeks. Is the Walker's Razor Slim a good ear protection ? It cost >100€ in my country and I'm thinking of buying it from amazon in the US and get it delivery for way cheaper.
Can only attest to quality of howard leight impact sport and MSA Sordin supreme pro X but if I could do it all again I'd just buy a bucket of well-rated disposable foamies and save up for 3M Coomertac IIIs or ops-core AMPs because the cheapo passthrough electronic PPEs aren't really good for situational awareness beyond chatting with a dude at the range at some semblance of normal volume but still yelling, being confused about if a sound is behind or above you, etc. to the point of being basically equivalent to foamies or good polymer molded pluggable analog insertables (I forget the brand and name but they have a little cork that you can open a small channel that should give you some audible vocal frequencies while excluding damaging pressure waves, etc.), and the Peltors hurt after a few hours of wear even without wearing them under other headwear. Just my 0.02 Euros
forgot to add that lower end electronic PPE, specifically any single-layer solution (so anything not ops-core amps) is only like a 19 dB noise reduction unless they fit your head fucking perfectly, which they probably won't, so they aren't even as good as .15 scrint 25 dBR foamies just at protecting your senses alone
I will contact the supplier we have at work and order myself some molded earplugs. They will cost me 150€ but they will last me 6 years. What kind of db attenuation should I look for ? Friends warned me about echo at the range, the 100m is inside a tunnel bellow an old ww2 fort, noise is a real issue.
can you get suppressors in whatever country you are in? that will make a lot of difference
either way good molded earpro + decent over-ear should be plenty fine. There is no right answer on what level of db reduction you should look for exactly, but more is better.
they can be a little uncomfy for indoor rifle and handguns. Not ear-ringing, but if you plan to do that a lot i might double up with those plus foam insertables. There is really only so much that one layer of protection can do when indoors. Outdoors they are fine tho
How the hell do I wash this thing? I bought a Romanian jacket with liner months ago on a whim since it was on sale for cheap; I don't even remember where I bought it. The jacket is no problem to wash (pic related) but the liner is a completely bare sheet of what looks like felted scrap thread and other material from a manufacturing plant like you'd see inside a car (pic below). I'm not even sure where to start. There's no way this is machine washable, right?
It must be cheap but how the hell do you wash a liner with an open "face" like this? I don't want to have to pick the pieces out of my washer if I fuck it up but I do want to be able to hunt in it when it gets colder. It smells strongly of a surplus crate full of clothes; I can't wear this thing hunting without washing it at least once if not two or three times but I don't even know if I CAN wash it in a washer or if I have to do it by hand. Has anyone else washed their Romanian jacket liner?
Is this a good deal? Everything G3 (including barrel) for $500, not sure what the receiver costs.
https://www.apexgunparts.com/g3-hk91-rifle-parts-kit-7-62-nato-308-good.html
Sarco has receivers for $200, but I don't know the quality. Ask the /brg/, they'll be more knowledgeable.
Does this look like corrosion and rust or just extremely neglected metal
It's deep tool marks from grinding or filing, perhaps to cover a weld repair but the guy who did it didn't bother polishing their work, or to fix that deep pit at bottom right.
Good enough for farm equipment or something being patched up for war.
Ah thanks anon, I have no idea how someone would get tool marks like this on a gun's bolt. Nothing in that spot even moves its a solid piece so idk what the hell the previous owner was thinking
Why are the poos shilling for the rusmorons? I barely come on PrepHole these days.
Russia and India have had pretty strong ties ever since the Cold War. The USSR was India's biggest source of weapons, for instance.
Indians also wish they could invade Pakistan like how Russia did with Ukraine so they live vicariously through them
Went shooting in the mountains yesterday and it started raining heavily as I was there. I packed up but didnt get home until today so the guns were sitting in the range bag which was also soaked overnight, as I couldnt remove them from the bag. There's a bit of rust on the barrel of my 10/22. Is there a way to remove this easily? did the rain compromise the gun in any way? I didnt see rust on my other guns that got wet
>There's a bit of rust on the barrel of my 10/22.
Yeah it'll happen.
>Is there a way to remove this easily?
A paper towel. A small amount of oil. Wipe. I highly recommend taking the gun out of the stock as it's probably wet under the stock line. Dry it before putting oil on anything. If that doesn't work, rub it with a 2" round "pad" of cardboard or a piece of felt, preferably with a little oil. No I'm not kidding; corrugated cardboard is a great mild abrasive and it can even take off the corrosion on brass without harming the dark "patina" underneath; I wish I had discovered that earlier. Blued steel is wayyyyy harder than brass so it shouldn't even scratch a thing. If it's still there (in which case I'd doubt that this rust happened overnight) then I'd break out the #0000 steel wool and oil and extremely gently rub it away. Don't use more pressure than you have to when using abrasives. Work your way up in pressure slow.
>did the rain compromise the gun in any way?
lolno. Anon you haven't seen shit when it comes to rust damage. There are (rust) pitted to hell mosin nagants that are still safe to shoot.
>I didnt see rust on my other guns that got wet
Do your other guns happen to be cerakoted, painted, stainless, or nickel plated? Do you have an aluminum gun like an AR-15 or certain shotguns (excluding barrel, bolt, etc. of course)? Ruger's bluing isn't the greatest at rust prevention but I have a feeling the others aren't blued. My 10/22 tends to rust if I get rained on while hunting and forget it in my bag overnight once I get home. I wiped my barrel with grease and wiped it off (until you can no longer feel any oiliness or greasiness) to hopefully prevent some rust. I think it tends to hang around better than oil applied in the same manner. A thin film is all you need.
Thanks for the info anon, its really helpful. Also took my Mosin and my AR up there and they seem to have come out fine
>The range bag needs to be thoroughly dried out as well.
This. I forgot to mention that. The black/red "Ruger 10/22" bag is fucking awful when it comes to wetness. Grey floormat foam under the outer nylon layer. Under that is a plastic sheet. Under that is the near weed-fabric cheapness inner lining. That plastic fucking sheet is so stretchy and thin but it just holds water like a cup. I reached my hand down in a hole behind the lining and tore it out. I don't use mine anymore if I can help it; way too thick for my needs anyways. I used to shove it in my backpack while hunting. Took up 1/3 to 1/2 of my backpack.
I tried to dry it once after getting rained on. I decided it was a good time to wash it so I threw it in the washer where it proceeded to hold like 1-2 pints of water due to the stupid layer of plastic when it was done washing; I don't even think I'm exaggerating. Now that it has the plastic layer ripped out, it gets machine washed now and hung in the sun IIRC. Been a while since I needed to wash one. Thank god. It's padded well but it dries terribly.
Does shouldering a boot behind a buffer tube count a stock (not duct taped)?
is it on a scar16?
buffer tubes are only barely tolerated by being an "integral part" so even a buffer tube sock pad is toeing the line by the rules. How hard is just a buffer tube to shoulder anyways if you have a padded shooting jacket?
With the increased relevance of thermals, would a re-examination of spring expelled munitions but not completely retarded?
I’m margining a missile that is initially launched like a PIAT round and then once it’s in the air the motors kick in. I imagine the positives being that the initial firing doesn’t create a thermal signature and by the time the motors kick in, the missile is far enough away to not instantly give away the firing position.
Would also reduce dust clouds, visual signature, and noise of the firing position.
PIAT still used a propelling charge, gunpowder or something, which is how the weapon recocks itself. You'd have to either use an impractically strong spring or a soft launch system like how some russian systems eject missiles with compressed air or a gas generator though the latter also tends to be hot. Something like a javelin with a stronger cooler soft launch motor would be what you'd want as if you compromise range then it would mean the weapon is even less stealthy by virtue of having to get closer and with less choice in firing position.
Can a .308 be bored out and re-chambered for 8.6 memeout?
I came into possession of a 99 savage with bore in really shit condition. I'd like to have it re-chambered and SBRed so I can cosplay as a space cowboy.
Honestly, the bore is only jacked up at the tip, I can probably just get it cut down to 18" or whatever and it will be fine in .308, but I want the meme gun.
>can I rebore my 308 to 8.6
probably not but even if someone would bore it out and machine new rifling it would probably be cheaper to just buy a replacement barrel. And even then it's probably cheaper to buy a different rifle and a premade barrel than having something custom made for a savage 99. And if you're trying to hammer 8.6 into some random piece of shit you got rather than buying something made as 8.6 you probably can't afford $2.50-3.00 every time you pull the trigger anyway.
I think you misunderstood me there. The point of converting a savage is not to save money, obviously just buying a jellybean AR part is cheaper than paying for custom work. The point is that I really like the 99 and want a custom one.
I was just wondering if it would be possible to convert the current barrel, but looking at it further, it looks like getting a custom barrel built would be the best solution and that will cost me $400-$500 from one of the custom bolt gun barrel makers.
Yeah, if you just want to roll an 8.6 then have a custom barrel made. Before you start down that road though also look at your magazine. If I remember right the Savage 99 has a weird rotary mag right? 8.6 fits in an SR-25 mag but I'd check that out on whatever the rotary mag is to make sure that's the case there too. It's not going to properly chamber but may you can fill the mag then run rounds partially in to make sure they at least start to feed with that mag/action (ideally you'd be messing around with snap caps but I don't think anyone makes 8.6 snap caps yet, I think I recall one company making dummy rounds for it though with normal components but no powder and drilled for identification). 308 subs are a thing too, it's literally 300 blk bullets but in their natural case with less powder. Half the price of 8.6 and you're guaranteed they'll chamber in your rifle. If it's not about dropping animals at subsonic velocities but for the memes and your larp fantasy then who cares about 220 gr vs 285 or 300 and you can run factory 308 off the shelf when you don't care about being quiet. There are other sub rounds you can run in levers too, 357 can run heavy 38s subsonic, 45-70 has factory subs with even more punch than 8.6 (410 gr Hornady as well as 500 and even 730 from some botique manufacturers). Not trying to pour water on your idea - personally I own two lever action suppressed SBRs (38 and 45-70), 300 blk SBRs in both semi and bolt action SBR, and a factory 8.6blk bolt action SBR - I'm just familiar with the challenges that pop up when you try and create something unusual even when it's been done before, be prepared that probably no one has done a Savage 99 in 8.6blk and it may not work out well. There are other paths to SBR suppressed lever gun that aren't super well worn but aren't complete one offs and you'll be able to get some guidance.
Mine has a box mag like picrel. I find the rotary mag ones cooler. No idea how reliable that is.
You both have a point, .308 is a very nice caliber and since I'd have to hand load 8.6 I might as well load some sub .308 loads.
Live in a 30-50 feral hogs area so that will be it's other purpose besides larping.
I'll see about just getting the barrel lopped off to healthy rifling and just leave it at that.
How bad is the rifling at the muzzle that you're considering shortening it? Have you shot it and seen what groups it gets first? Also if you do get it shortened you might as well thread it if the barrel is removed while doing this job; if the gunsmith is removing it and tossing it in a lathe for crowning/cutting he can also probably concentrically thread it for a silencer (and not eyeball it with a tap and die; I have seen that cause visible canting on flash hiders!). Then you can suppress it too and still have a meme gun.
>Mine has a box mag like picrel
will probably work then. Buy a box of 8.6 from Gorilla or track down that group making dummy rounds before you start anything and make sure you can load them into that mag. Run the action part way to make sure they start to feed as expected (you won't be able to chamber them fully obviously). If all that works then a barrel swap to 8.6 is probably fine, won't know with certainty until you do it though. Prepare for the (small?) chance that you'll need to rework it or abandon the project if shit goes sideways.
Just continuing my thought from my last post, there are other factory calibers that can be done subsonic well in lever guns too. 44mag can run 44 spc at sub speeds (might require reloading though), some with 45 colt. I think POF makes a 9mm lever gun and there are factory sub loadings for that too. If you're open to reloading (or already do it) then most lever gun factory calibers can probably be done in a subsonic flavor when you don't care about energy on target to take game.
.45-70 does great with subsonics. 18 grains of h110 and an acme bullets 576 goes right at 990fps and stabilizes great.
what twist and barrel length are you using? tried any of the really heavy stuff? I've been considering trying the 1.69" long 730gr bullets from Matt's Bullets but not sure they're stabilize unless I rebarrel to a faster twist.
I've got a JM marlin with the microgroove barrel. I think it's a 1:24 twist. it seems to do great with the aforementioned load through my banish 46. I need to do a range day dedicated to accuracy, though, to get good group sizes. unfortunately the stinky fat Matt's bullets don't work in .45-70 lever guns because the crimp groove is too far back, which leads to over-length cartridges for the gun. the numbers come back with marginal stability for that in my lever gun, but I've got my Lott getting threaded, so I will maybe be able to try that.
Thanks anon. I have a 1:20 barrel on mine (1895 sbl). I thought those Matt's bullets wouldn't fit in Henry actions but did fit into Marlin? I'm probably wrong on that though. Oh well, would have been nice to have all that energy on target for hogs while still subsonic.
I've noticed my ability to make shots with iron sights has degraded over the past few years, despite primarily shooting using irons. I'm still perfectly fine with red dots, but any time I shoot with irons, my groupings are consistently going to the right and towards the floor.
My optometrist is also a shooter, so I visited him, talked about this, and had an exam where he looked for anything unusual that might be causing this. No dice; my eyesight has remained more or less untrained for almost twenty years. My vision is 20/200 (extreme shortsight, correctable with lenses), but I don't have cataracts or anything like that.
What the hell is causing this?
if your groups are tight and consistent relative to point of aim then adjust your irons and call it a day.
I've done that, but it didn't seem to do anything. This is across every single type of gun I've touched, be they mine or someone else's. It doesn't seem to make a difference. There's no way that dozens of different guns all have the same iron misalignment.
so what happens when you adjust the irons, you keep on hitting right and low no matter what you do with the irons? your groups are otherwise fine?
Exactly that. It's why I thought something was wrong with my eyes.
Doesn't sound like an eyeball issue. Sounds like a zero or point of aim issue. You mention using other people's guns, maybe they zero to a different point than you do (post covers their target and you lollipop or whatever). If you rezero to your performance it seems like eventually you have to bring it into point of aim if your groups are tight. You can't continue to be left-low as you continue to adjust, even if your eyes somehow bend light magically.
I'm also assuming you've already eliminated outside factors like wind and differing ammunition etc...
Yes. This happens both indoors and outdoors, across every type of ammunition I've used. The only remedy I've been able to find is not using irons.
I can't explain how it happens, and it's incredibly frustrating. Even if I go to the most violent extreme and adjust a set of irons to their limit to try to compensate, I *still* shoot right and low. I'm not flinching much or at all, I don't have any sort of nerve disease, I'm not limpwristing, I align my sights like I've been doing my whole life, but I still get the same results.
diagnose it on a rifle, bigger sight radius and less chance of flinching making a drastic change. shoot from benchrest supported, watch your breathing, squeeze the trigger gently, all the 101 shooting shit to eliminate you pulling low-left. use a rifle with a good amount of adjustment in the sights, you should be able to move your POI/POA to the upper right corner of the target if you want to. if this isn't bait you should be able to zero it for whatever you've got going. or just aim 2 moa high-left or whatever you think you usually do. this isn't rocket science; just zero to whatever the fuck you have going on and shoot.
Will try. Much appreciated.
Rifle or handgun? Rifle: adjust the sights to have your point of aim match your point of impact. Handgun (without adjustable sights): consult a target chart like pic rel to diagnose your issues with your holds or anticipation or just aim high and left.
Does the transmission of the T-62 have the same reverse speed problems as the T-72? Wondering about it since every North Korean tank is based on it.
Pic: Putin/Kim trade talks 2023, artists impression.
Any recommendations for a concealed carry holster?
For what gun and for what type of carry?
I've got an older 1911 and the hammer drops when the trigger is pulled even if the grip safety isn't being depressed. Also, occasionally when I rack the slide the hammer will go back with the slide, then drop when it goes forward again. What's causing this?
steel wool is overkill for overnight sugar rust, makes sense to always go at rust with a scouring pad and oil to see what comes off before you go at it with steel wool and damage the finish
Wanting to get a HK45CT but it looks like they come with 2 kinds of suppressor-height sights. Anyone have experience with the blacked out rear sight with the Tritium front? How is it?
Is that a dealer installed option? HK's website only lists the models for decocker and LEM, nothing about alternative sights. In any case, I've had tritium sites on one of my USPs and they're pretty worthless, I'm not going to start blasting away at noises in the dark anyway, get a weapon mounted light instead.
3-dot or go home, the blacked out rear is useless at night, and tritium sights are awesome definitely get them.
>listen kid you don’t want to be distracted by those rear sights>
Based Tritium dot enjoyer.
You guys just blasting at noises in the dark? Don't identify your target before you shoot?
I'm an ausfag with basically no weapons experience
Do standard optics with toggleable thermal exist?
Like an ECOTI meme overlay you can just switch on and off to aid target acquistion.
Someone probably does it but you also probably don't want it. ATN has the ability to turn night vision (not thermal, digital IR based) on and off on their X-sight line but they don't have that ability on the Thor (thermal line). Maybe some chineseum one does but they'll also likely be total crap thermal. What is normally done for this is to get a clip on thermal (like your ecoti reference but that's generally referring to the AN/PAS-29B or such, it's literally an acronym for enhanced clip on thermal imager but that type is intended for use with helmet mounted nvg). Clip on weapon mounted thermal imagers either mount to the pic rail (I prefer that) or use a bracket to hang off the front of your daylight scope (clamps around the objective lens area). That way you can run your daylight scope normally during daylight hours and then "clip on" the thermal when it gets dark. The daylight scope then focuses in on the screen of the thermal and you get a thermal image through your daylight scope. Zoom is somewhat limited on those and based upon the resolution of the clip on you buy but on a nice clip on you're not going to get much useful imaging beyond 12-14x regardless of what your daylight scope is capable of. Unless you're buying a top of the line military unit (for well into five figure price territory USD) you'll also need to zero the clip on to your daylight scope (high end mil stuff automatically coliminates). You generally only need to do that once though with quality mounts and it will return to zero whenever you take it off and put it back on. Point being that the screen on the thermal will be slightly offset from your daylight mount and you need to bring that into zero for your daylight scope's point of aim. Finally, a thermal clip on (as opposed to thermal SCOPE) won't have any heads up display info. Thermal scopes can have overlay with other info (LRF input etc) but since you are zooming into a screen with a clip on positioning is tough.
Cheers for the info big man, much appreciated
holosun is supposed to be coming out with a red dot that can have thermal overlay. the sensor is going to be super low res though so pretty impractical for anything except maybe pest control at night
Kewl
I don't know if prices have been made official yet or not but I vaguely remember this being the better part of $2k. $2k for a low-res toy vs <$5k for a highly capable clip on I'd scrimp and save for the capable tool. My opinion anyway.
wtf is the point of a carbon fiber handguard? it looks like you don't really save any weight over just a lighter built metal one
I'm not a materials scientist but I believe for a given mass carbon fiber provides more stiffness/rigidity than aluminum and is less affected by temperature changes. Geometry and structure are important to the overall strength of carbon fiber though so they may need more material which results in a higher overall weight than aluminum hand guards while resulting in a stronger more stable product. So better hold of zeros and less tendency to bend at similar weights.
I remember hearing that from one of the early wwsd videos years ago and thinking wtf you're paying for a carbon fiber handguard just so it doesn't get warm in the sun. They weren't even using it for night vision or whatever you actually need a stiff handguard for.
Is milsurp talk allowed here? I have two pairs of shoes that MIGHT be deadstock Chinese military surplus based off the label (factory 3516, which made shoes for PLA), but the issue is I can't find any photos of PLA members actually wearing said shoes.
Post pics
When I bought these, the listing said they were shoes for female officers in the 80s and 90s, which matches up with the year of manufacture on the insole (1986 for left and 1999 for right). It's a pair of Mary Jane style shoes and low pumps. The issue is every single photo I've seen of a female PLA member has been of one wearing boots of some kind of, or occasionally "liberation shoes", but never these sorts of shoes. Also worth mentioning: both of their outsoles smell like tires.
Anyone know if a JP thermal dissipator will fit on a Ballistic advantage 16 inch mid length pencil barrel?
Are there LPVOs optimized for .22LR? How about just good for .22LR? Looking for mid-range, not poor but also don't want to spend $1K for a 10/22 scope.
BSA Sweet 22?
>Are there LPVOs optimized for .22LR
most of them are 'optimized for 22lr' by having a fixed parallax at 50 yards. tbh i would just buy a cheaper regular lpvo and put it on there. What magnification range are you looking at? Athalon talos is 1-4 and like 250 new but i just saw one on tacswap for 100
I unironically like the simmons 22 mag truplex. It's like $40 on Amazon and have one on two of my 22lr. Technically I think it's meant for 22magnum but it's worked great for me. 3-9x. The scope rings it comes with are total garbage but the scope itself is fine for all the ranges I shoot 22 at.
My gay state (PA) doesn't have constitutional carry (yet). So I'd like to get a CCW permit, at least so I don't have to sweat whenever I am hiking in the woods or simply have a gun in the car while minding my own business. PA is a Shall Issue state, but at least my gay county (Bucks) requires I provide some references on the CCW application. Now's the catch: I'm a first generation immigrant (US citizen by now, of course), and I literally don't know anybody else who's gun-friendly (LGS clerks don't count, lol). What are my options? I heard that they don't actually contact the references, but if I put some BS and they do roll the dice and try to reach out, I'm fucked, right? Are there PrepHoleommandos near the Philadelphia area willing to meet up at a gun range (I'll pay for your session as a courtesy if you'd like) and confirm that I'm not a psycho gay so I can put you as a reference?
>magnification
Just list friends or family. As long as they're not openly hostile to 2a it should be fine. Normal friends who aren't into guns aren't going to suddenly say "oh he's a threat to everyone, total psycho", they're your friends dude.
That's the thing, I don't have local friends, lol (I work from home and don't really socialize because I already have a wife and children, who more than cover that part), and they don't allow to list family members as references. FML.
Join a church if you are religious, instant community and friends. Join a local gun club or go to USPSA competitions and make friends with others who like guns. You have kids, get them in 4H and have them join the local shooting sports project there, you'll meet other parents who like firearms. There are options dude. Although every schizo who shoots shit up ends up being a loner so maybe PA is smart to require friends as references.
>My gay state (PA) doesn't have constitutional carry (yet).
We almost had it a few years ago. The General Assembly passed a bill for it, but it got vetoed by Wolfe and they didn't have the votes to override his veto.
>my gay county (Bucks)
You definitely don't want get lacking anywhere near Philadelphia.
As for the rest of your post, they don't actually check your references. They just want to see if have two references lined up. They'll run a background check. You can pass a background check, right? Just use you friends. You can just ask them if it is okay if you use them as a reference first if you are that worried about it. Getting your license to carry is a lot easier than you think. You're overthinking this. Just don't do anything stupid once you have it.
I'd like to hear y'all's opinions. Why hasn't the AR 15 platform been replaced in the military? I'm sure there are way better options, it's been in service for decades. My thoughts would be that it's a very cost effective "gud enuff" option and the military just doesn't care enough atm to switch to something better
Replacing any existing gear is expensive, requires retraining on a gargantuan scale and introduces brand new problems with the new thing. You'd go through that sometimes, but the benefits must be so overwhelming that you have to literally be a retarded Somalian to not do it. So, do you have any suggestions to consider?
P.S. bear in mind the astronomical levels of lobbying and corruption (almost the same thing, I know) in the military contracts, too.
Yeah makes sense. If it ain't broke don't fix it
What in your opinion is enough better to warrant replacing the AR platform? There are slightly better options out there, but they aren't so much better that it is worth changing for. Like If you have a sports car that does 0-60 in 4 seconds and they come out with one that does it in 3.8, are you going to sell your car to buy the new one or is what you have good enough?
It hasn’t been replaced, but it also hasn’t stayed the same. The iterations have kept it fresh and up to date, while still retaining a lot of legacy and cross-variation compatibility. That’s very valuable.
Also, there is nothing with benefits that appeal to the military that is in 5.56mm which is either actually better, or better enough to be worth switching. AR-15 put bullets down range, it accepts optics and lasers, and we’ve already worked out how to put grenade launchers on it. The only reason to switch is a new caliber, which is exactly what is (theoretically) happening with the Army right now.
Also, gun nerds massively over focus on small arms minutia. Unless a gun is actively detrimental, replacing it is a low priority compared to all the other things a military spends money on that has much larger effects.
It's no different than any other military small arms. You get a series of small updates while the primary platform remains the same. This happens for purposes of training (same ergos and controls from one iteration to the next so you don't have to retrain everyone) and logistics (mostly similar manual of arms, ammo, many compatible parts, etc...). NGSW is currently under way though, if it moves forward we'll have a wholesale platform shift at that time (presuming it doesn't get canceled or greatly downsized along the way, that happens a lot e.g. SCAR, HK416, etc...). Regardless, currently issued M4A1 with its associated accessories is a long way from the original M16.
The AR-15 is a very good design. If you ever get a chance to shoot one full auto it's remarkable how there's almost no muzzle climb at all. I can easily hold it on target (within short range of course) while doing a complete magdump. This is due to in line bolt travel and the DI (well, piston inside bolt carrier but everyone calls it DI) gas system.
That and it has been around so long now that a lot of the issues have been ironed out. It's a very mature weapon system and it's hard to justify starting over from scratch unless there's some huge jump in performance that a regular AR can't do for some reason.
Kevlar theoretically expires because the weave can loosen over time making it less effective at catching a bullet, but they set the expiration date very early for liability reasons and to encourage more frequent sales. I've shot kevlar from the 1990s that still held up as rated. With ceramic the issue would be cracking, but I reckon that would be more of an issue from being used, bumped around or dropped than just sitting there. Unless you are wearing the plates every day I wouldn't worry about it.
No, that's retarded and can introduce feeding issues besides being an awful grip that doesn't offer adequate stability. Grip it the way you would normally grip a pistol.
The 2000m sights are more for massed volley fire. Nobody was expected to hit a guy with an individual shot using iron sights on a Mosin at that range.
With SMG sights they were usually kinda sorta oriented in the direction of fire since SMGs only needed to be accurate at short range. The most common setup would be a 50-100m and a 200m zero, although a fixed one position ~100m would be pretty common on a more crude design like the STEN.
So I got a modlight with an arisaka pic rail mount. Should I put it as far towards the barrel as possible? Or put it in the middle of the rail?
It's on the right side of muh quad rail
Is it true that ceramic plates expire after 5 years? I have some RMA 1155s in an emergency plate carrier hanging on my closet door and am wondering if I will need to replace them in a couple years. If/when I do replace them, what options are out there that don't have an expiration date? I have plates as a thing I can slip on if nigs start to nog and I don't want to worry about getting penetrated in the chest instead of the ass like I usually prefer.
chances of you needing ceramic plates are almost zero anyway but I wouldn't be worried about the expiration as much as the fact that you bought RMA garbage. Get some Hesco 48xx plates instead if you really think boog or a race war or whatever is coming. Either that or just stop worrying about things that won't happen.
Maybe this is a retarded question, but for pistols is there a "real" grip style when using a stendo where the off-hand grips on the stendo to brace for muzzle-rise?
>1000 hours in ms paint; also I am left handed which is why the stickman is goofy holding.
I wouldn't do it. Mags have some play in them so it's not a firm return to zero hold and you're putting a lot of leverage on a part that isn't meant to take that force. All of this is ignoring the fact that extended glock mags are stupid outside of PCC/SMG use anyway.
Can someone point me to plans for a homemade crossbow without power tools?
I have a question which bothers me for a long time now. How are iron sights manufactured? Especially in period before WW1 when you have sights ranged to a 2000 meter range and it supposed to be somewhat accurate. Or another example: fixed sights on SMGs, homemade guns and last ditch weapons. With a fully adjustable sights you can zero in pretty easly but how a sheet metal sight spot welded roughly above the barrel axis can be acceptably accurate? What i mean is: sights are very precise stuff yet they often seem to be manufactured by primitive means.
With fixed sight SMGs, the answer is acceptable accuracy and close range. These guns weren’t meant to shoot long distance. With as far as a pistol round reaches a fixed sight is fine enough for hitting a man sized target. The guns weren’t meant for bullseye shooting.
For rifles with long ranges, same as today more or less. The sights were windage and elevation adjustable for zeroing. You get them properly zeroed and all of the extended range adjustments should be close because the people making the guns would have known exactly what kind of rounds you’d be using and just made the range elevations match up according to the math. I mean just like at an AK’s battle sights or M16A2 style rear drum sight. Same thing, they adjust out with the presumption you’ve zeroed them a certain way.
are piston AR15's better than gas?
Not really. They typically run a little cleaner but you tend to have a slightly more jerky recoil impulse and proprietary special snowflake parts where if something breaks and the original manufacturer for your piston upper is gone you are screwed.
One other possible advantage is elimination of the buffer tube so you can utilize a folding stock, but not all piston uppers do so.
Regular "DI" ARs do get some carbon in the bolt carrier and receiver, but it also blows it back out, it's easy to clean and drenching it in lube can keep the rifle running even when it has gotten extremely sticky and filthy.
Personally I put together a BRN-180 because I like having a folding stock and I think AR-18s are cool, but I don't pretend it's really a better rifle than a basic bitch AR-15 which costs half as much money.
That's mega gay. I'd dig around in a bargain bin at a gun shop and see if you can find some crappy thigh holster that you can scavenge the straps from.
Anyone know where I can get replacement mounting/straps for the LMF II? I came across one but it’s just the knife and sheath with no mounting options.
I tried reaching out to Gerber about it but they only replace parts if you can provide a receipt and I just found the knife
I don't know that specific thing but if it's pic rel then that's just webbing and plastic clips, you can probably just buy generic shit on amazon for whatever width webbing that is. cut it to length, melt the ends carefully with a lighter, thread new plastic clips on it. webbing is webbing (unless you are worried about glowing under nods or want to support a hell of a lot more weight than that little knife) but I'd probably read reviews before buying clips as I'm sure there's a lot of shit chineseum that will fail.
I was thinking of making my own mounting system but I’d still prefer getting a Gerber part. Realistically I could just use a MOLLE panel or loops like you said.
Looking for the Japan manga picture of the karate dojo / guys kneeling on tatami mats , caption says something about “show of respect”
literally just type in “everyone was kneeling out of respect”
>t. had to repost it a million goddam times from numerous devices
but since youre a lazy fuck
Are there any current production rifles similar to an sks?
>Internal mag
>7.62x39
>Wood stock
Oh also, that are cheap/cheaper than buying an sks
https://www.czechpoint-usa.com/sa-vz58-rifles/categories
All I can think of
Not cheap though
Internal mag is going to be hard. Does it have to be semi auto too? Because Ruger makes a bolt action with a detachable mag (no stripper clips) in 7.62x39 (Ruger American Ranch Rifle 7.62x39mm) and the Mini 30 but
>cheaper
No way in hell. Mini 30 is $915-1000 according to a quick gun.deals search and the American Ranch is $430-500. Neither fixed mags but the American ranch can probably be reloaded with the bolt open with no scope one at a time.
Might just get an sks then. I feel like I'm overpaying but I want it. So who cares. Hopefully I can find one for under 700 in good condition
There were some Albania imports a couple months back but they're all gone. Albania had a bunch of Chinese /26s for some reason and we finally got them. They were beat; mine was pitted on the magazine baseplate, something (green scotchbrite or a metal scraper?) was used to clean the rust off poorly, the sling swivel on the back was worn to hell and needed a chisel to re-inlet the hole and probably needs shimming, and the bluing was ~75% gone on the top cover area and extremely shiny and polished from handling. ~10% shellac remaining. Trigger was frozen from rust. Safety was broken and I still have to put the replacement in. After cleaning and scrubbing it has a nice trigger and the bore was perfect since it was chromed and coated in grease and it shoots pretty good groups. I think those were like 500-600? Don't be afraid to shop around; there's plenty of them out there.
Would it be a bad idea/illegal to ship AR15 parts to a PO box in another state if no one will ship them to mine?
For context no one will ship binary triggers to my state, even though they aren't outlawed. The only reason no one ships them here is because there is a law against parts and devices that raise the rate of fire, and the way the law is worded make it vague to the point where CLP could be considered a machinegun. People still have binary triggers here, but no company will ship them.
What does it mean a piece of gear is labeled "Pre-MSA"?
I've seen this attached to various products for sale.