Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread. Post your dumb questions here so we can make more room for the ukraine threads that nobody's tired of.
Are offset irons a meme when used on a DMR/SPR?
QTDDTOT
Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread. Post your dumb questions here so we can make more room for the ukraine threads that nobody's tired of.
Are offset irons a meme when used on a DMR/SPR?
If they don't fit under the optic or unusable because optic placement ie an lt101 rail over hanging the rear rails or unity ftc, I think canted irons have a place.
FNX45 VS USP45
A better comparison to the FNX45 would be the HK45 because the USP is pretty outdated by now. USP clears both anyways.
fnx, three mags that hold 15 rounds of 45, swapable backstrap and the slide is already cut for optics which is the norm nowadays is pretty hard to beat.
>fnx
15 round mags, supressor ready, supressor sights, and red dot sight allows for cowitnessing
>usp
You can put outrageously overpressured rounds through this. I don't think you can mount an optic to a usp without removing rear sight. Not as many boolets
I've never handled an FNX that wasn't a piece of shit without it being low or no round-count.
The HK45 is a serious underdog which is hilarious considering how notorious HK is for just raping people's wallets; make one of the best value handguns on the market and everyone sleeps on it.
is a perfect example of someone in their own head with the numbers. Round count will always be subordinate to ergonomics on a handgun. Besides that, there really isn't a more durable handgun on the market than HK's hammer-fired guns, of which the USP and HK45 are best examples.
Offset is for fags who dont shoot prone, offhand or with a bipod.
A red dot doesn't need to be level to function properly dumbass
>offset optic
OP was asking specifically about offset irons, which are fucking stupid in the land of QD scope mounts and offset/piggybacked microdots.
Your retarded they were designed, as a backup sight for semi auto precision rifles like the m110. You don't want to use your 5-25 powwlee scope while retreating through a building an offset optic is absolutely better. And it's not designed to be used prone you should be using your primary, unless it's somehow broken.
>scope while retreating through a building an offset optic is absolutely better.
nobody is using any kind of optic including BUIS inside a building you choad, it's all point shooting. only 3 gun faggolas do stupid shit like that
I don't see the point of having offset irons as opposed to an offset red dot, or just folding buis. Especially on a gun like OP image with a 1-4 scope.
Any thoughts on when a gen 5 Glock 30 comes out? I want one but would want a gen 5 over the 4.
What the fuck is this thing? It came in the box of a g33 magnifier
Eotech lapel
fite me IRL
When would a Russian soldier wear a patch that represents their military district instead of a unit patch? What are they for?
>Russian soldier wear a patch that represents their military district
their unit doesn't exist anymore or they haven't been assigned one, or a combination. Gives the commander a rough idea where to send the body, which is all the Russian military needs right now
My grandmas brother passed away and she gave me these two helmets. Im not a collector and its just taking up space in my basement. Any idea what theyre worth?
god damn im big tarded
Honestly not much one is probably a M1 helmet so about 50-100 and the other a pasgt about 130-160. The higher ends are with the covers included and if the helmets are in good shape.
The one on the right has a cover in "duck hunter" camo. I don't own one but I know they're not super common. Depending on who made the helmet, it may be worth even more. It's an M1 steel pot helmet. If you take the liner/shell out from inside (should look like a woven material covered in resin) and take the cover off, anons may be able to tell you who made it via where the seam is and the shape of the helmet. Personally accidentally came across a Schleuter and learned that it could be worth up to $200. Likely, you have something like the more common McCord worth ~$15-40. The cover can add value; having the duck hunter cover adds value above that for sure, though I can't tell you how much more as it's not really my focus in collecting. Hopefully no one painted the helmet under the liner.
Don't force the liner if it doesn't want to come out. Should almost fall right out.
Like anons said, left one is more common, right one is less common. If it was me I might hang onto them both and see what happens in a few years. But, if you are dead-set on getting rid of them left is probably around $150 and right is probably around $200,
Like anon said the duck hunter camo cover is probably the rarest thing about either.
i want to build AK kits any advice?
>Are offset irons a meme
Yes, they're dumb. If your role is DM, your rifle will be set up the way the mission dictates, I think the Army givbes you an ACOG and the Marines use a scope. I think the Marines just updated their DMR from M14 to some new piece of shit, but it used to come with a 4-14x scope.
Anything else is just a cope/waste of time.
I'm looking for a holster for a jericho 941F, i'm pretty much set for a Front Line holster, anybody has any experience with them? Any other reccomendations? Also any anon ordered from zahal.org, is this site legit?
Why are the mods here retarded and let people post doxxes but give me a temp ban for anti israel posting?
Is there any reason to have this? Genuine quiestion btw
Not sure, how about you do another thread? You're doing one on the daily.
There are reasons, but not good ones.
A gun which has been properly designed does not have any need for it, and we see several guns that are shaped and function similar to AR-15 that have simply ditched it. As they are confident that their guns are made well enough that it is unnecessary.
However, there are plenty of not-so-good reasons to have it. First amongs them sunk-cost-fallacy. They have been using it for so long, and all the manufacturing equipment is geared for it to be there, that it would be more expensive to ditch it than to keep it.
Also, a lot of manufacturers want their guns to be "military compatible" so they would sell more. Again, sunk cost fallacy. As long as US military keeps using guns that have that feature, the manufacturers will keep adding that in, just to stay more marketable.
And then there are people who have just gotten used to the fact that it exists, and are against any changes. Because change is unknown and strange and weird and they are not comfortable when things change.
like I said, there are many reasons for it to be there, but from the point of view of gun making, only bad ones. Design a good gun, and you won't need to add an extra "unfuck" button.
Yeah but there are failures that can be more quickly remedied by using a fixed charging handle or forward assist.
This is a fact, and has no bearing whatsoever on "firearm quality"
If you ever hunt with an AR in the freezing cold it's very helpful to fix a frozen bolt
it's helpful for (relatively) quietly closing an open bolt to chamber a round. The full yank-to-rack can scare game, especially if you're hunting Coyotes.
can't you achieve this same end by thumbing the bolt itself?
You cant, if you have an AR you should try it yourself.
You cant push hard enough on the carrier scallop to get the extractor to slip over the rim.
ok. chambering a round silent is such a hunter-specific issue, on top of which is indicative that you should probably be hunting with something other than an assault rifle, or at the very least keep your assault rifle chambered prior to use
yeah.
people who want a folding ar without having to buy a new bolt or a new gun. made sense sorta in 2016 when deadfoot arms barely spit out any of their folding kits that arent garbage and the popular piston folders of today didnt exist.
My question:
Why won't most other manufacturers make "relatively-easy to check how many rounds left" magazines, like Glock does?
At most it's like "it has an indicator that the mag is full, or if there is 10 rounds left".
I mean, tiny holes like that should not be TOO hard to add to your mags, right?
It's extremely common for pistol mags to have witness holes.
yeah. But why is this not a standard feature by now?
Also, if I have a mag that does not have these, could I just...use a power drill?
>yeah. But why is this not a standard feature by now?
it is on pistols. most mags have some form even if its just 1 near the bottom to show fully loaded.
the reason its only really on pistol mags and not rifle mags is rifle mags are exposed to the elements and that ways dirt to get in the mag and fuck things up.
>Also, if I have a mag that does not have these, could I just...use a power drill?
you could but youd need a way to deburr the inside of the mag. you could end up deforming or bending the mag depending on how bad you are. most likely the holes wont line up properly on the first try. plenty of effort for nothing.
>use a power drill?
only a hand drill, sorry
>manufacture 4 magwalls without holes or just one "full" witness
>add time and labor to make several witness holes
it'd be easier to make the sides out of a clear plastic/poly or do a window a la magpul gen3,
How do I east asian gf?
Man I would be fucking all the Idols if I was the CEO of JYP
Are those chiappa takedown lever actions good? I want to get a .22 for plinking and figured I'd cross lever action off the list too since they're really cool.
My Taylor's in .357 is smooth action, robust and stupid accurate for such a short barrel and a Skinner rear sight. My one complaint is cartridge length sensitivity.
How fucked is Larry Vickers? He hasn’t been sentenced yet right? Mandatory minimums in play?
Obvoiously making a SBR with out the crowns permission is a no-go. But what if it was made with a custom stock that has it at an absurdly long OAL?
Let's say the rifle build has an LOA of 33" in it's shortest config. Now slap on a >16" barrel, but affix some 8' framing lumber for a stock or some shit. Is there a point for the OAL where the barrel length is no longer considered?
Fuck ya'll I'm having another beer.
>but affix some 8' framing lumber for a stock
as long as its a "stock" it matters
if its not a stock and over 26 then barrel length doesnt matter like a shockwave.
however you have to make sure your 26+ gun doesnt fall under any other categories like handgun, rifle, aow,sbs/sbr
What the hell are these for? Backpack carry SBR?
People like ARs. People like folding stocks. Sometimes they're the same people.
its for people who think its worth an extra 10 ounces to have a folding stock, even if its a shitty one that makes the gun inoperable while folded, but think they're too good for an ar18 based firearm
for most people, folding stock means you can have a smaller range bag. that is mostly it. you can also larp the idea of being mechanized infantry and epicly dismounting your subaru to engage the enemy steel plates at 20 yards
that's the reason i got one of those
Anything special I need to do when keeping a loaded mag in my backpack? Does it need to be covered or anything like that?
Is there dirt and dust in your backpack? If no then probably not. I take my mags to the range loose in a backpack. Unless there's dirt in there that will get in your mag or metal shit that will scratch them you'll be fine.
Spare mag to keep in my daily backpack for work, school, etc. Dirt and dust will probably accumulate over time.
If you have a common handgun like a Glock, Beretta, 1911, etc. it may be a good idea to just grab a surplus mag pouch with a snap closed strap over the top and put it in baseplate up. Not sure how you'd attach it to the inside of your backpack though. Or just unload and clean every other week.
Which bag is this soldier carrying on his rig?
Not sure about this particular model, but this waist pack is relatively similar:
Helikon-Tex Foxtrot Mk2 Belt Rig
Heh, I literally own that exact bag, I was asking because I came across this picture recently and I was wondering what the Helikon rig was based on.
That’s the M-1956 webbing field pack. Colloquially referred to as the “butt pack”.
They were standard issue through the Vietnam war.
Anyone have any experience with these? I've been watching and reading reviews and they're supposed to be pretty good.
The fov definitely feels anemic. I’d go with a full size prism of some sort if it’s my go to rifle, but they seem neat for lightweight/minimalist rifles.
What is a good tool/weapon for EDC self protection that doesn't require license and is legal? Asking for a friend
Your fists. Learn how to fight.
What's a decent bolt action rifle to use for hunting and long range shooting for a beginner? Something with a threaded barrel is a must and .308 is the caliber I want to go for.
Pic related is 18.5" barrel and seems like something that would work since 600 yards is gonna be my maximum distance most of the time.
Also what optic for this? Again something budget friendly not amazon chink shit.
I really like my Ruger American Predator. I have a SWFA 10x42 scope, cost me $200. Scope is fixed magnification, so might not be the best for hunting.
Bergara b14 hmr with vortex or leupold scope
>Also what optic for this?
I will once again shill a $300 Leupold VX Freedom 3-9x with $30 rings. All the different 3-9x40 models just get you different reticles; they're all the same inside otherwise according to the answer Leupold left on the Q&A section of the Rimfire model. Due to the lack of models I could find locally and the fact that I like the reticle design, I may or may not be using the Rimfire MOA model on a .223. There are other options, though, and I'm sure that includes a .308.
>Again something budget friendly not amazon chink shit.
Good for you putting thought into your scope. I tried "name brand" chinkshit and it didn't hold zero for shit. Replaced the rings with Leupold and the scope's groups improved - and Leupold ring screws would actually stay clamped unlike the chinkshit. Since I got tired of the chinkshit scope losing zero from minor bumps, I recently replaced the scope with the same 3-9x VX Freedom model that got me through the entirety of last small game/furbearer hunting season (july through end of spring) without a single zero shift. And I bump shit hard, scope first, more often than I'd like to admit. While you're at it, you also might as well get a Wheeler FAT wrench and torque the screws to the right amount of inch pounds btw. Peace of mind IMO, though I borrow one when I need it.
I have the 2-7x33 version on an old Savage in 243 win, will vouch will shill.
hows the glass on these? I want a scope to put on my 10/22 in the future and these seem like a good option
Bretty good IMO. It's great in any situation I've thrown at it while squirrel hunting. Throw a set of matte Rifleman rings (medium) and a Weaver brand 430T rail on your 10/22 and that exact scope on top and it will be solid. The only complaint I've had is that the detail washes out at extremely - let me emphasize - EXTREMELY specific lighting conditions which can be solved by throwing a $40 scope shade from Leupold on it. It happens so rarely, though, that unless you're hunting at sunset aiming in very specific directions, I wouldn't even bother unless you run into that situation first. AFAIK the only way you're getting rid of that washout otherwise is by spending a lot more on a scope with very fancy lens coatings. For me, the $40 scope shade is fine.
cool, i might pick one up eventually then
As
pointed out Bergara is good bang for buck, if you are a beginner with more cash tikka.
On scopes it's entirely a question on how much you are willing to spend.
Just be sure to get FFP with turrets matching the reticle. (Mil/Mil)
On the lower end in addition to whats mentioned Arken optics (the models assembled in china but with Japanese glass) are interesting, going a bit higher Meopta Optika6 FFP. ect.
>used
you aren't going to use a DMR
you are going to shoot static paper or steel targets in comfort.
do whatever you want with your toy
I'm looking for a bolt action rifle for hunting in 308/7x64/270 and I keep finding people praising guns they have several _important_ issues with. The best example being ftf with tikkas. There are dozens of threads about it, and the same people having issues will recommend them elsewhere as being good to go. Same goes for Sakos, the last round sometimes getting stuck in smaller capacity mags. Weak bolt stop on the Franchi Momentum (called Horizon in Europe). CZ and split tangs w/ wooden stocks. Etc etc.
I should somehow accept paying a lot for a gun that either isn't 100% reliable or needs to be tweaked (not good to go out of the box)?
I don't fucking get it. And yeah I am aware that issues get overblown online but there are too many threads to just ignore those questions. People are harder with 80yo milsurp bolties than with modern "high-end" rifles... yet they work well.
I might end up sporterizing a ww2 mauser, it would be a bit less accurate than modern options but at least it'll work 100%.
get a Savage Axis II and spend the rest of your Tikka money on a better chassis from Boyd's. Savage furniture is cheap and godawful but the actions are some of the best OOTB and you get the adjustable accutrigger
Look into a Remington 700. My dad got one given to him by his dad, and I used it to hunt deer as well. It's chambered in 270 and I've dropped every deer on spot. Silky smooth bolt too.
Is AP ammo illegal in US? Can someone explain?
Yup, totally illegal.
I don't know a lot about this to be honest, but since no one has given you an answer here's what I know. Armor piercing handgun ammunition is illegal to import under the Gun Control Act. I've also seen people test old AP 9mm rounds on soft armor (to great effect) and they mentioned it is no longer legal to manufacture. I don't have a source for that nor can I find the video. This doesn't apply to rifle rounds to my knowledge, but apparently the ATF will happily call a rifle a handgun like they did with 5.45 in picrel.
M855 is not armor piercing.
>picrel
And I forget the fucking fuck
>France has GIGN
>Germany has GSG9
>Britain has CTSFO
>Japan has SAT
What's the American equivalent of these?
hrt
FBI SWAT
FBI HRT, they're cross trained with CIA spooks and Army Delta
they're often ex-spec ops dudes, too
Always thought it was funny the asian country's counter terrorism unit is named SAT
how bad was shock waves from IED's did it really cause Hydrostatic shock and cause TBI?
what should i buy for airsofting for the first time? any advice? what type of gun and load out should i get?
>what type of gun and load out should i get?
buy what you think looks cool none of it fucking matters. all aegs are the same. its a bullet hose with essentially unlimited magazines compared to reality.
get an aeg that you think looks cool. 2 mags and a sling. possibly someway to hold that spare mag. or you could jungle mag it or use a pocket.
pistols are fun but pointless. for practical airsoftl use its going to suck shit compared to your aeg bullet hose. if you have a pistol and cheap out on a holster you will lose your magazine as you run around. hell you might lose the whole pistol.
all you need is the gun 2 mags a sling maybe a spare battery, some face protection and your good.
Buying my first handgun. Should I get a 92FS or a P2000, i'm a lefty btw.
haven't owned either but having handled 92s and HK pistols, I like the berettas a lot more. Why specifically between those two though?
I like both and they're ambi. Thanks for the input anon
depends really since both are going to need a trigger job. i prefer the p30 since it is a better p2000 and it compact unlike a beretta which will be big no matter what. also paddle release is best for leftys
Would a straight-walled polymer cartridge like picrel, made out of some theoretical material which has extreme tensile strength/ductility, allow you to mostly shift maximum case pressure load to the chamber surrounding the cartridge?
A case with extremely high tensile strength would do the opposite of that.
If I SBR a pistol I can put a retracting stock and foregrip on it right?
das rite
Barrel threading by hand with a chaser with the guide and goes down the bore, is it concentric enough not to get baffle strikes on supressors?
This is what I was talking about, this thread starter is inserted in the bore before threading by hand, would it be concentric enough for a supressor?
Forgot my pic.
Can anyone answer this?
If you can afford a can and the cuck stamp that goes with it you can afford to get it done by a professional
Not definitely since it may or may not. You could do it, then test concentricity with some appropriately sized drill rod but if it didn't work then you'll either need to cut down the barrel and try again or get it cleaned up and bushed back up to size for threading. For your time and tool cost though you may as well just get it done by a local smith on a lathe.
My local smith wants to charge 250 with a waiting period of 3 months ffs. I'm tempted to try on my OEM 10/22 barrel I replaced, I give no fucks about it if I screw up.
$250 is highway robbery for a bare barrel. I could see that if they need to disassemble and press out of a trunion and back in though. At an expected 3 month wait time I would also just ship it to any number of online smiths like ADCO for $75
https://adcofirearms.com/shop/gunsmithing/barrel-threading-gunsmithing/arstandard-barrel-threading/
As a precision tool maker and a cnc machinist, do not do that!!!!! It needs to be chucked up in a lathe and indicated and machined properly.
what is k stance on the isreal hammas thing is k pro palestine/hamas or pro israel
i am pro isreal fuck the mudslims
on another note will isrealis be using nukes if they start to lose? will they be nuking all the arab countries?
>will isrealis be using nukes if they start to lose? will they be nuking all the arab countries?
Hopefully, and hopefully they get nuked back, and we can be done with that whole fucking part of the world.
Israel is an apartheid state comitting genocide of Muslims.
I stand with Israel.
Hamas is an anti-Semitic hate group attempting to genocide israelites.
I stand with Hamas.
Can a fren help me to figure out what kind of scope this is?
I'm thinking a russian PEM (1937 version?) with german mount (as german sharpshooters rushed to pick up superior russian scopes, since they were stuck with the mediocre ZF41).
But i'm not sure at all, and some details don't match up.
pic 2
zoom on the mount, for a k98 maybe?
anyone?
Doubt the rings are German. They had a tendency to mark military equipment so even if one of those was sterile the other would have markings to show the manufacturer
/msg/? If it really is surp they'd know. See:
can you pay to cover up/remove brand marking on pistols? or is it illegal.
For aesthetic purposes i would like without it.
I think you're good to go. the serial number is the only controlled marking.
you could probably mill off some material and then refinish it. youd just need to make sure it didn't affect the structural integrity of whatever you take material off of
does anyone know where i can find high res box art for Black Talons?
Why does my 1.57 mount for an lpvo still seem too high on my ar ?
Because it's reticle is about a tenth of an inch higher than your iron sights
Should I go with a lower mount or get used to it?
You can go lower if you want 1.4, 1.57, 1.6, 1.7 are so you can use your iron sight through you optic but your irons would probably be in the way that low so you should probably toss them on that rifle.
There's trade offs for everything.
I thought about it. I got a ctr stock so ill try the .25" riser. 1.57" - .25" = 1.32". 1.31 is the lowest mount I've seen being sold. 18 dollar invest vs 300
Then if that's still too tall you can get the Gucci larue RISR it's .5 and it's also what was on Craighead's rifle in Nairobi.
because you aren't using proper shooting technique and probably are turtling as bad as Mitch McConnell
List me reliable but affordable .45 ACP steel slide DA/SA 8-10 rounds please
What's your bracket for affordable? Seems like those turk 1911s are the cheapest you can go, I only have one .45 AARP gun so I don't have an expert opinion or anything.
$800, preferably under.
I thought 1911s are SA only?
Oh oops I overlooked that part. I really like my HK45, and that fits the DA/SA bill. It was around $720 when I got it.
Trade in sig of some kind. Bet you could get one for $500
What's a good budget red dot? The sug Romeo seems to be pretty popular
honestly the TR25 doesn't suck as long as you don't do something dumb like stick it on a desert eagle.
The desert eagle's rail doesn't move with the slide. Unless the shake from recoil is all it takes to break an optic, it seems like one of the better pistols for mounting a red dot.
I'm pretty sure that it's technically legal to remove serial numbers, but you really shouldn't. It looks sketchy as all hell and it removes useful information.
>The desert eagle's rail doesn't move with the slide. Unless the shake from recoil is all it takes to break an optic, it seems like one of the better pistols for mounting a red dot.
I speak from experience. it survives precisely 28 rounds on a 44mag desert eagle before the front lens flies out.
512c, Romeo 4t, duty rds, and if you decided to put cash aside xps3
are breaking from handcuffs/zipties pretty much impossible if your captor isnt a retard and restrains you properly?
Other than double lock cuffs it's just more effort.
any good manuals/videos?
A few months ago I followed a link from here to an interview with this guy, where they went through the whole video and discussed his experiences. It was fascinating but I didn't save it, and the title was in Ukrainian so I don't know what to search to find it. Anyone know what I'm talking about?
Looking at buying a 18.5 barrel for an 870. Should I go with a non-Remington branded one or just get an OEM replacement?
The meat cube is real?
Looking for a cheap AIWB holster for a Ruger EC9s. Anyone have experience with Gun Flower holsters? They’re seemingly decent cheap kydex. Can’t find any real bad reviews of them on Amazon or YouTube. Not many holsters for this specific gun.
I use a gun flower (2 actually, iwb & owb) with G19. I think they are excellent, at least for the G19.
Is a budget nv scope worth it for hunting coyotes/coons etc? Specifically the sightmark wraith for around $500. I've watched the YouTube reviews, but some real world exp would be nice if anyone has it or an anecdote from a buddy who knewwg2nan a guy even.
I've killed a few things with it. It sees a lot further than you think. Update the firmware. Turn off the ir light when done. I've had to turn it off and back on a couple times when the refresh rate takes a shit. It still wasn't bad, but it annoyed me. I don't regret mine.
I've noticed in war videos it's common for people with AK's to use full auto and with AR's semi-auto. In my personal experience rapid firing an AR is more stable than rapid firing an AK so what gives?
most modern ars lack full auto and have 3 round burst
the AR-15 imparts Eugene Stoner's divine wisdom upon its user immediately upon shouldering it
Long story short I got a gun from a friend of a friend that had a death in the family, wanted me to sell it for them and pay half its value towards the funeral. But I really want to keep it, I'd like to know its value so I can still pay them half of what it's worth. Its an original armalite ar-7 with used box and manual. but all the serial numbers match and the manual was printed in 71. I know there are people out there who care about original packaging which is why i really can't guess its value. Does anyone have any guesses or where to go to find out?
A good way to value something like this is to search auction sites to see what people have paid for them in the past. Here's an example from a few years ago where an AR-7 like yours (with box) plus a Springfield M-6 sold for $1150.
https://www.rockislandauction.com/detail/2038/817/two-survival-long-guns
And here's another listing where an AR-7 with box sold for $489.
https://www.rockislandauction.com/detail/2053/766/armalite-ar-7-explorer-semi-automatic-carbine-with-box
Here's one that went for $460
https://www.rockislandauction.com/detail/2016/627/armalite-ar-7-explorer-rifle-with-box
...so it's worth about $500.
NTA but I really thought AR7s were worth more. Damn, I might have to get an Armalite then. That swirled nylon always looked neat.
>NTA but I really thought AR7s were worth more. Damn, I might have to get an Armalite then. That swirled nylon always looked neat.
current production ones are under 300 bucks and there was a while where they were 200-250 ish. theyve never been costly. 500 is more oh its a first gen collectable.
Yeah but I hear current gen ones suck don't they? That's why I was surprised that first gens were barely any more in box. I'd pay current production prices for a non-boxed old production if it meant it was higher quality.
I have no clue if they were in some game or something but I saw a stock of one years ago in person and thought it was neat, so it stuck in my head. Never got to see one complete in person and heard the modern ones sucked and the old ones sucked less.
Yeah I hear that but especially about the modern ones with their (IIRC) basically barrel liner in plastic for a barrel.
Nah, they've never been particularly expensive or popular with collectors. They're honestly a pretty crappy gun too. Did these feature in a video game or movie or something recently? Or maybe a prominent youtuber? For the longest time nobody ever seemed to talk about them but I've noticed more and more posts asking about them in the last couple of years and I'm trying to figure out what caused that. Maybe just new gun owners being drawn to the name Armalite after having learned about it from AR-15s?
never touched one but over the years I've only heard people say negative things about them
The original Armalites made up through the 70's and then the ones made by Charter Arms made up to the 90's have a niche use case: if you're someone like a bush pilot or you're kayaking out in the middle of nowhere and you really need a survival rifle that floats. The current ones made by Henry don't float well which basically undoes the one reason why someone might choose an AR-7. Otherwise they have a crappy trigger, they're not very accurate, nor are they reliable. They're also not all that compact since the stock is large enough for buoyancy. A 10/22 or Savage takedown is a much better gun for 99.9999% of use cases, practically speaking.
Yeah, I think I'll just give them 500 for the gun and tell them I'm straight up buying it from them.
Thanks for the help.
That’s an original Armalite version with box so if you want to keep it and support your friend’s friend’s family, I’d purchase it.
Keep in mind the barrels are thin so don’t do too much shooting at once. There is a small but prevalent aftermarket for these guns but I suggest purchasing a new made version if you truly enjoy the platform. There are also barrel replacements too, even all metal ones for more serious shooting.
I enjoy mine and have been able to run some crappy ammo through it with little issue (early Henry manufacture) but my main issue is wear on plastic bits and the butt pad being too tight to remove sometimes.
If you do keep it, try not to wear out any plastic parts that are invoked with the assembly.
This.
Some ranges might have a policy against that, especially if they think you’re a novice shooter or a first time gun owner. Many indoor ranges have rules in place to prevent or reduce the chance of suicides at their ranges, that’s why so many won’t rent out guns to single individuals or not to anyone who doesn’t bring their own guns with them.
FAMAS
Some people use .223/5.56 for deer hunting where legal but lost people opt for larger and heavier hitting calibers that can reach farther and have a greater chance of stoping an animal in its tracks. Rounds like this are better suited for varmint hunting.
If you have an AR and want to hunt with it there are calibers more suited for taking deer such as 350 Legend, 6.5 Grendel, 450 Socom, .300 blackout and more.
Most of the calibers simply need a barrel change or minor modifications to the bolt or other parts of the gun. Some people change out uppers or get a dedicated deer gun.
Make sure you follow your state’s rules and regulations, some people and hunters to this day don’t take ARs too kindly, that includes game wardens and DNR officers so keep that in mind.
I use offset irons as my backup sighting system on my ar. my main optic is an lpvo, but i don't have a qd mount for it. if i did have a qd mount, then i would just use folding irons.
Why have irons when an LPVO does 1x?
>Why have irons when an LPVO does 1x?
>backup sighting system
do they make any sort of concealment device for a conceal carry holsters?
like if my shirt were to ride up for whatever reason, people still wouldn't be able to tell I have a gun
Other than using an undershirt not that I can think off
Any good online sites to order AR-15s or HK-shit? If so list them
Rooftopdefense, Bigtexordnance, Primary Arms, FamilyFirearms, EuroOptic, Porter's Basement, Brownell, DD
I want to get a full size pistol that is optics ready that will just be for range use. The only pistol I have that is optics ready is sub compact and I'd like something more fun to shoot 500+ rounds through at a time. I am leaning towards a Walther PDP 5". I don't have specific brand preference as long as it is reliable and has a good trigger. Any suggestions?
M9A4
Beretta M9, Sig P226, CZ Shadow 2, some sort of 2011
pdp is good.
I want to use the AR next year for deer hunting. How weird/unusual is that? .223 is legal in my state.
not terribly weird/unusual. some states establish a minimum caliber or mag restriction which is why .223 isn't used as much. i'd try to get some heavier rounds instead of shooting 55gr, it'll be more forgiving if you have a bad shot. make sure you're not shooting fmj while hunting, most states frown upon this
the other option is to get an upper chambered in a larger round such as 300blackout, 350 legend, 6.5 grendel, or 450 bushmaster. all of the above are more than adequate for deer
So i bought my first handgun last weekend and am picking it up from the store tomorrow. Is there anything wrong with taking it the range inside the store the moment i get it? New to all of this and not sure what proper "etiquette" is. Thanks.
no you have to wait until you drive back home and come back the next day
Oh ok
Can somebody identify what weapon this pepe is holding?
>retarded frogposter doesn't recognize the right arm of the free world
Thank you for telling me which rifle it was.
l1a1 or fn fal whatever u wanna call it, different countries have slightly different variations with diff names no biggie
Is this a good good group for 25 yards?
offhand or bench? offhand yes bench no
Offhand
Random question, what would a good bench/prone group look like? Impacts less than 3 inches apart? Way less than that or what?
i would say a couple MOA, so a few inches at 100 yards is 'good enough'. 1 inch at 100 is good for an ar15 or similar, but is harder to accomplish with a red dot/irons rather than a magnified optic, and harder when you don't have a shooting bag or bipod
>what would a good bench/prone group look like?
Depends on the gun. At 25 yards a rifle with optics, a scoped revolver or single-shot pistol, any kind of target oriented gun shooting prone or off a bench you should have a single ragged hole. A carry pistol with just irons is not going to be that good, a 2" group would be excellent.
Is Armor Piercing High Explosive Anti Tank Fin Stabilizing Discarding Sabot possible or practical?
Best AIWB holster for a Beretta 92FS? I'm retarded and suck at shopping but wanna carry this bad boy around since it's cold enough to conceal
Is there any red dot sight that is red anodized?
Like pic related (it's cheap airsoft shit from china)
I need it for a 3d printed gun that's completely green and has a few red applications
It would look just stupid with a normal colored sight
No there isn't it but you can find matte red spray paint and go that route.
your best option is going to be buying a normal one and getting it cerakoated probably
Thank you for your suggestion
I thought about painting it but I guess it will be kinda difficult to match the color of anodized aluminum
Maybe I could buy one and take it apart to have the aluminum housing anodized
you could probably take it to a place that does cerakote jobs and have them take a look at it and try to match the color the best. there's a million colors of the stuff and I'm sure you can get something pretty close
Duplicolor has an anodized look paint called metalcast, silver base coat and candy red topcoat. some advice, don't be a homosexual.
Thank you, that looks promising!
I will try this out and maybe paint the bolt in this color as well...
>some advice, don't be a homosexual.
Oh, I will be one!
NTA. Genuinely want to see this when it's finished. Looks like it's going to be brightly colored.
I have a question on the skorpi0n
The instructions say nothing about how many walls to print. Since the instructions say 100% infill does it matter? I'm just getting back into printing again. I already printed the trigger housing at 100% a year ago and it has been sitting in a box. I want to get the rest done sooner than later.
What barrel shroud thing do you have under your handguard?
(As a person who designed a bunch of the parts for the 3dp scorpion project (pic related), it makes me quite happy to still see people printing them.)
it'd be pretty easy to pop the hood off of an EO and paint it really nicely. it's just 4 screws.
Who's making Remington shotguns now post-collapse? I know Ruger took over the Marlin leverguns, but new 870s are coming on the market now and I haven't heard anyone mention the manufacturer. Are they supposed to be better than the shit-tier rustpipes Remington made in their twilight years?
Remington, technically. The company was split, guns and ammo, and sold as different entities, firearms are still produced under Remington (Remarms) with all the standing machines and tooling but are owned by Roundhill. The ammo arm was bought and produces ammo under Vista. They share a name but they are 2 different companies.
Ok, thanks. Any idea if they're supposed to be an improvement over pre-bankruptcy guns?
As per the interviews with the heads of remarms and roundhill they downsized remarms to the core firearms, rem700, 870, and the V3 semi auto.
The main purpose is on focusing on the QC issues of the prior years and because everyone makes 1911s and AR15s they don't plan on entering the market.
And just incase you ask or wondering no the 870 MCS is no longer being produced or at least not to my knowledge.
Alright, well I'm not taking their management's word for shit. Just curious in case you had any experience or knew someone who did
From what I've handled they seem fine I haven't heard any complaints about the new ones.
What stock is the non-pistolgrip option for reducing felt recoil on a Mav88? I've seen those kicklite ones, but they seem hard to track down. I want something help tame the recoil of 1600fps slugs. Also, what are other options for taming recoil?
There's many things which can help. Thicker recoil pad on the stock, add weight to the gun either inside the stock or via accessories, muzzlebrake/compensator. There are also special inserts which go inside stocks that absorb recoil via interia. The old school designs are a sealed tube partially filled with mercury. There are others using weights and springs like the "Dead Mule" recoil reducer. Wood stocks are the easiest to work on. Take it to a gunsmith and have him switch it to a thick pad & install a recoil reducer, or DIY it if you're handy with tools.
Interesting. Thanks anon, you've given me some more leads.
Does anyone know the fate of se/k/retsanta?
Website is down and neither tripfags big boss or Santa’s little helper have appeared. Soon it will be time to sign up and do batch 1, if things were happening accordingly. Last year was a bit lackluster which is a bit of a shame but it still was full of gift exchanges and good times.
I don't know either been waiting to hear something hopefully soon. Always looked forward to it
Do you guys ever get drunk and make firearms purchases?
I own a Springfield 1903 now I guess.
No but I did break the trigger guard ear on my AR lower after 4 shots and oongaboongaing the metal guard off.
Lol yep, have done that a couple times. Ended up with a Tavor SAR, Kel-Tec RFB and M1 Garand that way. I sold the Kel-Tec later because it was a piece of shit, though
>M1 Garand
I’m jealous, maybe one day.
Shame about the RFB, they look cool but my BR needs are satisfied by my SA58.
The M1 Garand is called a battle rifle because it chambers a fully powered cartridge, like the AR-10. Does that mean the rifle was made for battle? Or can you only use it for hogs and coyotes?
I’ve always read the BR definition that’s full power cartridge/box magazine, but the M1 has been grandfathered in.
Also jesus good thing the 1903 is bolt action fucking $1/rd for .30-06
Hi. Stupid question ahead: is there a meaningful difference in terms of ballistics between a rifled barrel and smooth projectile combo, and a smooth bore and rifled/ribbed projectile combo?
Because of economies of scale it's probably more efficient to manufacture (fewer) rifled guns and massive amounts of smooth bullets than the opposite.
But when it comes to the shooting itself, does it matter?
Asking because I live in a country with far fewer restrictions on guns with smooth barrels, and I was wondering how far it could be pushed (within the boundaries of the law) to make the equivalent of a rifle.
Is it realistic to expect a smooth bore carbine with homemade rifled bullets to perform similarly to a normal rifled carbine with normal cartridges?
"rifled projectiles" in a smoothbore isn't really a thing. There are "rifled slugs" for shotguns but that is really misleading terminology. The angled ribs on a rifled slug are meant to keep the slug centered in the bore while still being able to deform easily to pass through a choke. The angled ribs on the slug aka "rifling" produce very little spin. The reason why the slugs are stable in flight is not because of spin but because they are drag-stabilized, their center of gravity is in front of their center of drag.
>Is it realistic to expect a smooth bore carbine with homemade rifled bullets to perform similarly to a normal rifled carbine with normal cartridges?
Absolutely not.
I see. Thanks a lot.
>But when it comes to the shooting itself, does it matter?
Yes. Think about how rifling normally works. The soft bullet has the rifling pressed into it when the bullet first starts to travel down the barrel. Now it works a lot like a nut-and-bolt: the bullet is interlocked with the rifling, so it is forced to spin as it travels down the barrel. If the barrel is smooth then nothing is interlocking with it. A "rifled" bullet will just slide straight down it because there's nothing in the barrel engaging with the rifling on the bullet.
Is anyone ever going to manufacture more 16" MP5 barrels or am I going to have to have one custom made? Just sitting here on my parts kit waiting.
Zenith makes a 16 inch mp5. But for just the barrel, I think there was a company called rcm or rmc that made them. I recall a few years ago that your only barrel swap options for the sp5k was B&T or some company called RCM, I think. I remember them having a shit load of options. I looked it up while typing this and I'm too lazy to delete it all. Here ya go, anon.
https://rimcountrymfg.com/product/rcm-hk-style-factory-94-barrel/
Why a 16 inch mp5? Too impatient for the brace case or don't want to SBR?
I want to put HK33 furniture on it. I haven't checked RCM in a while, whoops. Good to see they're back in stock but I'm probably still stuck with custom because I need the sight tree to be further down for an HK33 forearm.
Had someone tell me that m14 and m21 are jam o matics but everyone I know past Vietnam era that used one loves them except for the ergonomics. Is he confusing it with the ruger mini 14s, because I hear a lot about those jamming.
Should i buy this for my first gun?
Will only be used once s year for pheasant hunting.
Perfex semi auto used
https://www.londerosports.com/husqvarna-used-perfex-12-ga-23-shotgun
Maybe the Canadian general thread might be of use? Husqvarna makes good guns but these things aren’t common in the US and I can’t vouch for the piece or the retailer selling that gun. If I were would I would suggest getting a simple pump action first, unless you needs the semi-auto for clays and hunting. An older semi-auto shotgun might not be the best choice for a gun novice.
Maybe a .22 rifle would be a better start? You learn the fundamentals and save money in ammo.
>‘Twas the month before Christmas
>and all through the board
>not a tripfag was posting
>maybe they’re on discord?
Are GSG Mp-40s still poorly made?
I think it might be best to assume so. There is another company building higher quality MP-40 clones but I am unsure if they’re selling anything on the US market yet.
>There is another company building higher quality MP-40 clones but I am unsure if they’re selling anything on the US market yet.
Going to look into that. Sounds exciting.
I know I missed the train on the multicurve blackbeard plates, are these still g2g?
also, which sources of plates and/or helmets are to be avoided?
you don't want single curve. only multi. trust me. Stick with Highcom, Hesco, LTC/Hoplite, RMA, etc. Stay away from steel armor or ar500. Helmets Team Wendy, OpsCore. That's about it.
Thank you *smooch* <3
Does anyone have a chart for which kinds of wire / plastic brushes you can use on which kinds of firearms.
Or also when to use and when not to.
I hear everything from clean it every time you shot and then others that basically don’t clean shit and swear by it.
I dunno about a chart, it's pretty damn simple:
1)Never use steel brushes on any gun. They scratch shit up.
2)Brass/bronze brushes are great. They are softer than steel so they will never damage your gun.
3) Plastic brushes are also safe for any gun since they also are softer than steel. However, they're not as effective for cleaning as a brass brush because they're not as stiff.
IMHO there's almost never any reason to deviate from using a brass brush for your bore and an old toothbrush or similar plastic-bristled brush for other kinds of cleaning.
It's hard to give generic advice for cleaning because there are a lot of variables: climate where the guns are shot and stored, what kind of ammo is being shot, some people have really acidic sweat that seems to rust everything they touch, some ammo is dirtier than others, and so on. I'd say the hard and fast rules are:
1) if you shoot black powder, BP substitutes, or surp ammo with corrosive primers then you must clean your guns ASAP, and the cleaning must include water in order to dissolve the corrosive residue those things leave behind otherwise your gun will rust literally overnight.
2)Use your senses and your judgement. Look at your gun, is it all crudded up with fouling from the dirty cheapo ammo you bought? Go clean it. Did you just shoot a couple mags, the gun worked perfectly and it doesn't look nasty? It's no big deal to leave it, though it won't hurt if you do clean it.
3) Is the gun malfunctioning at all? Definately clean it. And make note of how dirty it was when you started having problems so you can make sure to clean it before it gets to that point next time.
Thanks anon, this is great and I learned a lot from you.
I don’t think I’ve seen a steel bore brush anywhere but I swear boomers act like you told them to soak the gun in saltwater and acid when you mention using a metal brush.
Yeah, steel bore brushes aren't a thing for obvious reasons but watch out for those assortment packs of small cleaning brushes you might use on other parts of the gun, like picrel. The brass and the plastic ones are safe, the stainless steel one will scratch.
I only don't use brass brushes for aluminum, painted shit, or plastic. Brass for blued steel. Steel never (I only use them in the packs I get from Dollar Tree for rust removal on shit I dig out of the woods). Yes there are some kind of steel "tornado" brushes for shotgun barrels but I don't know if those are really steel or just nickel plated brass or something.
>I swear boomers act like you told them to soak the gun in saltwater and acid when you mention using a metal brush.
Yeah meanwhile they shoot copper jacketed bullets, copper solids, brass solids...lol. Brass brush is all I use unless it's a .22 then I usually only use cleaning swabs and cleaning patches. That "tornado thing" for shotguns I have only ever used in an extremely rusty barrel.
just got a crimson trace with my gun - what is the best way to go about selling this pos? reddit? FB marketplace?
1) Is my holographic sight in an okay position? Most seem to be directly over the ejection port, but I can't slide mine any further in that direction due to my flashlight button. FWIW, this will have a proper stock on it very soon (waiting for eform 1).
2) I'll eventually have an Osprey suppressor on this (waiting for form 4). I believe that suppressor will extend further than the existing barrel attachment. Will that be an issue for the current placement of my light? Does the light have to be about flush with the end of the barrel, or is it okay for the barrel to extend a bit further?
Thank you and Gosh bless.
>1
its fine
>2
you'll get the light splashing on your suppressor, which will create a shadow, but its really not going to be an issue, more of an annoyance. There is really no scenario in which it will hamper your light's performance, or which the splash on the suppressor would let someone see you that much better than they otherwise would while you have a bright ass weapon light pointed downrange. Just leave it as is
definitely good then. You should be able to hit a torso sized target reliably out to a few hundred yards
Do you have the mlok mount that came with that light? You could mount it on the side slots which would move it farther forward and give you more room for the switch.
You could also get a Modbutton lite or other switch that takes up less room on the top rail, if you want to move that optic up.
Good ideas too, thank you.
>believe that suppressor will extend further than the existing barrel attachment. Will that be an issue for the current placement of my light?
its fine
>Does the light have to be about flush with the end of the barrel,
flashlight flush with the muzzle is actually the worst possible position since you get the most carbon build up. you also have the weight of the flashlight at the tip of the gun which is bad for balance.
>or is it okay for the barrel to extend a bit further?
you get a shadow which is fine, you can change where that shadow is by moving the light to the other side or the bottom.
One final dumb question about my gun. There is a white sticker with a grey sticker over it. This has a small QR code that's already wearing off/fading. I can't find any mention of what this QR code/stickers are for. Can I just peel off these unsightly stickers? They don't seem to be the serial number.
Checked and noted.
Serial number is always engraved
If I buy an FS2000, how hard will it be to source the original factory optic and hood later? There seem to be very, very few examples on gun broker, arms list, etc... that ship with the original optic.
It seems you could have purchased the optic separately judging by old retail listings but if you somehow manage to get your hands on a F2000, it would probably be difficult to track an original optic and hood.
It was quite the controversy when they were discontinued on the civilian market so any rifles, especially with the appropriate optic and hood would fetch for machine gun level prices.
Does anyone make a 90 degree offset pic section like the one circled in red in my beautiful picture
Yeah.
https://www.amazon.com/Montrum-Degree-Offset-Picatinny-Mount/dp/B09XGGG2Y7
Doesn't look like what I drew at all bro
That's literally as close as you're gonna get until someone makes it. The one that looks like your beautiful masterpiece has been discontinued for a while.
>discontinued
What was it called previously? Who made it?
Madritsch Picatinny Mount 90 ° Offset
Damn that's exactly what I need
any opinions on how to get this screw out? these MOS screws are shit and completely sheared off. There's not enough screw left to grab with vise grips and turn out, which is what i did with the other one.
Tig weld a screw driver to it
Does a revolver's cylinder effectively add to barrel length and if so is it equivalent to having that length in extra barrel? Say you were firing .22 short out of a gun with a .22 short frame compared to shooting it out of a longer .22 lr cylinder. Was just thinking about those NAA mini revolvers and if that would elimimate the ~50 fps or so difference between .22 mag and .22 lr muzzle velocities at 2 inch barrels since you can swap in a .22 lr cylinder into the .22 mag revolvers.
no because the cylinder gap detracts from performance.
it does add effective barrel length, just not 100% of it. Some power is lost from the gap making it not a 1:1 comparison but it's not like all the power is lost.
You can probably assume cylinder gap is a fixed reduction and thus negligable though since it would be the same cartridge at the same pressure.
there is also a lot of gap between the bullet and the bore of the cylinder, since there is no rifling, so you lose effectiveness from that as well.
With most cartridges, yes. But not with .22LR, it uses a heeled bullet which is the same diameter as the case.
it still isn't rifled, which means you are getting gas blowby.
By what mechanism would rifling prevent gas from blowing past the bullet?
The bullet is smaller than the lands of the rifling, therefore the bullet deforms into the groves and creates a seal.
Naturally there is some gas blow by but its limited in a newer barrel.
*bullet is bigger excuse me.
I'd be interested to see if anyone has stats on this. would not be hard to test if you had the guns and a chrono.
This is the back inside of the slide on my 4506 it's doesn't shoot for shit but I wanna have it converted to 460 rowland
The arrow is pointed at a internal peice the looks very obviously busted
What's the peice called? and is it easy to fix ?
Help me out anons!
I want my supa magnum
BAKA
Forgot my picture
Who makes good metal mags for ar15s? Looking for something less weight and price of HK
I guess I'll ask a question related to yours without answering your question.
I read that Surefeed magazines are good (they are aluminum, made in the USA, and are used by the US military) and bought some. As far as I can tell, they're of good quality.
However, they do not seem to work with the H&K MR556 as they do not get latched on by the magazine catch. Is this a known issue? I know the MR556 isn't quite the same as an AR-15 but I thought the magazines would be the compatible.
I've used the H&K steel magazines and the Magpul Gen M3 polymer magazines without trouble.
I bought 10 steel duramags for 10$ a piece a few years ago just to have a bunch. I haven't used them all extensively, but they have never given me an issue.
What is the name of the camo on the pants of the guy shaking hands on the right?
Beretta 1301, pistol grip or no pistol grip?
I have a deal on a new beretta 1301 tactical 7+1, pistol grip, + retracting stock for $1400. I could also get the 7+1 non-pistol grip ver with a fixed stock for $1400. Any advice? I plan on buying a 24" beretta 1301 comp later anyway for hunting/waterfowl if that makes a difference. I am leaning towards pistol grips but almost completely unfamiliar with shotguns other than messing with them at the range.
So Taurus revolvers, are they at least decent.
Im thinking of getting a 5-8inch 44 or 357 revolver,
reason would be a hunting handgun,
I go small game hunting which necesitates birdshot , however there are some wild boars around,
recently I came across some fresh tracks and heard big russling in some bushes.
I also came across a hunter who had been mangled by one (missing fingers, fucked up face).
That got got my almonds going
Since I might not be able to quickly load slugs , i like to purchase a powerfull handgun that is under 3 lbs 11 oz. Something with heavy bullets
>to reduce the chance of bullet deflection due to a hogs thick, massive and complex sinuses and increase the chance of a quick kill
10mm glonk would be an option,
however
, while i do understand rationally that lack of thumb safety is non issue for anyone with a lil practice, I just do not trust a gun withouth a DA, OR A thumb/grip safety and as such it is the last option.. So magnum revolvers , 45 10mm gats are on the menu, 45 seems heavy nuff but it lacks power IMO unless decent +p ammo is used, or a longslide . 44 seems more then heavy nuff + potent nuff, similar opinion on 357,
762 tok seems too light but good power.
Other options (besides taurus horny bull, and raging boner) are tanfoglio 1911s, springfield xd 10mm
>and if it really comes down to it i will save for a colt/ ruger
I can't speak to their compact/snubbie revolvers but the large ones like the Tracker and the Raging series are well regarded. They have two locks on the cylinder, one on the frame like a S&W and another on the crane like a Dan Wesson. They are also on the short list of APPROVED revolvers for the super-hot +P+ ammo from companies like Buffalo Bore. for example:
https://www.buffalobore.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=54
Quality-wise I'd put them in the same boat as modern S&W or Colt. Rugers are absolutely worth considering. IMHO they're not all that appealing to look at, nor is the trigger as good as a nice S&W, but they are great value for money and are rock-solid reliable. I have a lot of revolvers including pre-lock & Performance Center S&Ws, two Manurhins, etc, but my innawoods go-tos are either my Super Redhawk or my Glock 20. They're not fancy which means I don't care if they get rained on, sweaty, etc. And I know they'll go bang when I need them to.
I'm really new. Can someone tell me all the core parts one must obtain to assemble an AR? (And then I guess seperately some accessories that are useful/not memes?) How do I cross check compatibility so everything fits correctly when they arrive?
Psa upper
Psa lower
Streamlight hlx rail
HS 512c
Troy BUIS set
Magpul WCK
Ar15s enjoy a milspec standard and all parts should more or less fit together with no fuss unless youre dealing with something that is deoarted pretty far from the original design, like PDW stocks and QD barrels.
If you want the most bang for your buck, a PSA/Anderson complete lower, brownells DD upper, and a quality BCG.
Bros when i open my folding knife way too many times in time it starts to have friction and deploying it gets harder and harder, but when i leave it for some time everything gets back to normal and deploying is easy again. Whats the deal?
>Whats the deal?
thermal expansion. the parts are getting hot when you fiddle with it, that makes them expand slightly and get tighter.
What are the tiers for reloading equipment?
>door hinge with holes drilled in it
>Lee hand loader
>Lee hand press
>Lee C press
>Lee O press
>pretty much everything else single stage
>pretty much everything else turret
>pretty much everything else progressive
>winchester ideal reloading press
I am going to retire my Taurus Spectrum. I'm trying to decide between a lcr in 327 and lcp max. I've heard of the max having issues, which is why I am retiring the Spectrum in the first place. I've heard nothing but good things the lcr, but if I have a failure to fire, I just pull the trigger again. The max has double the capacity though. I'm leaning towards the revolver, but the capacity of the max is undeniable.
Has anyone found the source of some of photos for the HK Sentinel Catalog? I was watching a small arms solutions video, and I saw one of the most high resolution pics from the catalog I've seen yet: https://youtu.be/UM-ToOQNL8A?t=440 [Embed]
I like to collect pics of the USP/MK23, but whenever I reverse search this stuff, I can't find anything. That got me thinking, "how did this guy find this image to post on this video?" So I'm assuming they've got to be somewhere.
Is it possible to finish an 80% lower accurately, without having a drill press?
I want to build one, but the only drill presses I have access to are at my job, and there's no way they're going to let me work on an AR on their equipment.
Most 80% paces have jigs available to use a router instead.
I was planning to use a jig. If something is going to die from shooting this, I'd rather it be on the muzzle end of the weapon, not the chamber end.
I'm seeing a lot of "all-you-need" shit on some 80% arms site for $580. It has the lower, router, bits, jig, etc. Is that israelite pricing or is that about fair?
Def israelite pricing if that doesnt include some lowers or the router itself.
You need the two different jigs for the different depths in the trigger pocket and the trigger hole and then one for your trigger pins and safety hole.
https://www.80percentarms.com/products/all-you-need-kit-1-80-lower/
That's the one I'm looking at right now.
Not a bad deal anon, idk how long that harbor freight router is gonna last but not a bad deal at all.
I still have some harbor freight shit I bought to work on my car like six years ago. I don't use them often, but they've all held up to what I needed them for.
As long as the router holds up to milling out the lower, that's fine. That's all I need it for.
Sure, Ive got a 3/4 harbor freight impact that does fine, I just dont use it a ton.
No sense in buying a nice Milwaukee when youll use it 5 times a year you know?
As long as you arent pounding out a dozen 80% back to back it shoukd be fine.
I figure I *may* need to do two. If I fuck up the first one, I learn from that for a second one to not fuck up.
are there any high velocity 9mm loadings that aren't $2 a round self defense memes? just like some +p 70 grain fmj or something?
Hispanicy 9.
exactly my point, 1.87 per round just to get something going faster. is there really nobody making 50cpr high velocity target ammo to give PCCs just a little extra range?
Well, technically it's what you asked for. It's not $2 a round.
See if you can find shit online to reload them. Then you can make them hot as fuck.
I bought a Mossberg 817 and it's fun to shoot but 5 rounds just aren't enough.
are there 10+ rounds mags?
if so where can I get them?
I've found another mag that the package says it's for the 801 and 802, but then also mentions the 817 in the model description?
Due to some limiting factors, I’m looking to use my 8.3” Ace in 7.62x39 (suppressed) for a backyard deer hunt. I have a small selection of ammo to choose from—Hornady Black, Wolf HP, and Barnaul SP. Which would offer decent expansion? Range is 30-80 yards
What ever happened to coom lube anon? Did his stuff turn out to be any good?
i got a bottle. seems like it works fine so far. i use it way more than necessary though so ive burned through about half the bottle, but so far it's better than remoil at least.
I've used it on my Glock and AR and have had zero issues. Would buy again.
it shills its garbage every chance it gets. shut the fuck up you homosexual.
does anyone have any pictures of what it would look like to hot blue over parkerization? I've read that it creates a very deep black finish, I have a zinc parked frame that I am thinking about hot bluing over the park to get it deep dark black, wondering if it would look good against a blued slide.
is a modern colt 6940 worth the squeeze?
Could 22tcm fit in a Glock 20/21 magazine?
Why didn’t armscore just do that instead of making the sequel round they did?
Anyone know where to get proper milspec nylon straps in 1.25" width to make a sling? I have hardware in 1.25" but all the nylon in 1.25" is the thin shiny shit for dog leashes and backpack straps.
Joann Fabrics might have some? Look in person to see if you can find it before just ordering some. I know it's probably available online but in person varies store to store. I know that thin junk you're talking about. Some of the really shitty dog collars and leashes, like those at Dollar General, use that junk nylon. Thin shit. Tried to buy some dog aisle shit to make or repair things (cheap source of D rings, buckles, adjustments, nylon) and walked away disappointed.
Will a light colored pistol/rifle get it's finish dirty quick?
Is it hard to keep it looking nice?
I know this board is largely red, but if there's a Democrat that is pro-gun, carries, hunts, etc, what is your opinion of that one personally? Do they get a pass, or no because of their political affiliation?
I'm not political in one way or another, but I'm curious as to the general feelings of it.