>look up QTDDOT
>No results
why are magazine disconnect safeties so hated? do they make guns less reliable? don't they at least get rid of the stupid warning on the side of the gun?
QTDDOT - queers that don't defrost their own bread
>look up QTDDOT
>No results
why are magazine disconnect safeties so hated? do they make guns less reliable? don't they at least get rid of the stupid warning on the side of the gun?
>Tyrone breaks into your bedroom
>pull out pistol and shoot, miss
>pull trigger again
>click
>realize mag fell out
>Tyrone ass rapes you
That's why
Try doing some dry fire practice, you'll quickly learn to hate them. Also it's just unnecessary like grip safeties, a thumb safety is all a gun needs though a DA or SAO trigger is more than safe enough without a safety if you keep the hammer down. In general, people just hate unnecessary features on their guns, like even if those child safety locks have absolutely no effect on the reliability or trigger of a gun people still hate them because it's unnecessary bullshit
impacts the trigger, reduced functionality
>do they make the gun less reliable
59376634
>why are they hated
unnescessary, more complexity, less functionality, could theoretically make the trigger worse (but not enough to matter)
>do they make gun less reliable
no
>do they get rid of stupid warning on side of gun
my glock doesn't have a warning on the side of the gun
generally speaking, any unnescessary/unhelpful safety feature on a gun is not going to be appreciated. see: grip safeties on guns that don't have 2 pound SAO triggers, hillary holes
pretend the first 3 lines aren't there
>be me
>be cowardly little fraidy cat
>want to into flintlocks
Is there a minimum length of time or any kind of etiquette or protocol when it comes to dumping a new powder charge down a barrel after you've already fired? My retard brain tells me I should wait like 30 minutes minimum or else there'll be a leftover ember that'll ignite the new charge in my face
Or are modern black powders somehow "cleaner" and have a lesser chance of embers sticking around in the barrel after firing or something?
In the old days people would just put their mouths over the end of the barrel and blow hard after shooting their shot. The moisture of their breath would instantly extinguish any embers left in the barrel.
Even if you were to pour a charge of powder down the bore and have it instantly ignite it wouldn't do much other than shoot a bunch of fire and smoke out the end of the barrel. When the powder isn't packed it doesn't explode, it just burns vigorously. So no hand-removing boom, just woosh that may cause some burns if you've got your hand right over the muzzle when/if it happens.
that said, what's a more realistic time to wait between shooting and reloading? a minute?
just swab between shots if you're that worried. which you might want to do anyway because BP leaves a ton of crud in rifling.
>charleville
>rifling
Not him but I thought the loading rod acted as a cleaning/clearing rod. You'd run the rod through the barrel after each shot but before loading, or at least thats how a cannons were typically handled. That or the wad would act like a swab when forced down the barrel
it's not a problem, the absolute worst that happens is it goes
>whoosh
and you poop yourself a little bit.
I was thinking of making Minie ball rounds that had a tissue paper bag with the charge glued to it, but I don't think that would be safe, because that whoosh becomes
>blowing my fucking hand off
that being said, I've been shooting muzzleloaders for a few years now, even at a rapid cadence, and I've never had that happen.
In the event you've emptied some but not all of your magazine, and want to put in a fresh one, a magazine disconnect doesn't let you drop a mag to put another in while being able to use the one round you still have chambered. It's a second or two of vulnerability that isn't necessary.
Also, that's just one more moving part to malfunction, with no real benefit to speak of.
What's the modern era firearm classification is the thematic equivalent to the Rapier?
I would say some kind of relatively high end competition gun
any handgun chambered in 5.7
Open Race Guns, usually always a 2011 pattern pistol with huge compensators
not very practical and useful, like a rapier, other than for sport
why are literally all of these 1911 based?
The 1911 has a straight pull trigger, it is not on a hinge like most other guns, the trigger has a straight linear pull where others pivot as they hinge. It just feels better and people have been making and shooting race 1911s for a long time. People usually only shoot other brands of guns since they particularly like those guns alot or they are sponsored by that manufacture.
I have a cz hammer classic but the barrels are 20inches with a fixed choke. Everywhere I look says the hammer classic is a 30inch barrel with adjustable chokes. The hammer coach barrels are 20inch with a fixed choke. Any ideas?
https://cz-usa.com/product/cz-hammer-classic/
https://cz-usa.com/product/cz-hammer-coach/
Cz doesnt make shotguns they just rebrand turkshit. They also frequently discontinue those shotguns every 3-5 years and release "new" turkshit. They do it to trick people into buying turkshit and also they dont have to warranty or help you if it breaks cause its discontinued. Its ynlikely the gun will break something in 1-2 years but a decade of actual use later somethings going to snap. And cz can say ah we cant help up that gun was discontinued 5 years ago. Why dont you buy the new 2030 cz shotgun.
If you think this is bullshit cz wouldnt do that look at the pumps they rotate constantly.
The gun you own is probably discontinued. Thats why its not listed anymore.
where can I find an AFG that isn't made for tiny woman/manlet hands
Why do ospreys keep falling out of the air?
Gravity
They don't do so more than other airframes, just crashes with Ospreys are more newsworthy since despite it being around for fucking forever people still think it's a novel design and crazy
it's safer hourwise than the Blackhawk
I'm looking for a .22 lr 8 or 9 shot da revolver for plinking. I kinda have a thing for old guns but trying to find a decent H&R, Iver Johnson or High Standard is damn near impossible in my area (New Hampshire) at least for a reasonable price. Should I hold out until I find what I want or should I look at new guns? Would Taurus, Charter Arms or Diamondback be my best bet? Have a random pic for your trouble.
I got a 22 lcr and its pretty pricey for what it is, but its got a super nice feeling trigger despite being so heavy
I bought a LE trade in and was asking the guy about a part kit to replace the springs. He looked at me confused. I change the recoil spring on my carry gun every other year and on my competition guns annually. Do people not change their springs?
how many rounds do you put through them a year? I think most springs can handle a lot of compressions without giving up
My competition guns are 22s so more rounds than I can count. My carry guns maybe 3000-5000 rounds a year. For my safe guns I don’t change springs unless I have problems but my carry gun I feel like it’s best considering a new spring is like 20 bucks shipped and that’s every other year.
If true, you are probably replacing springs far too often. I suppose there's no real harm in that, but they are designed to last far longer than a year or two. Typically people only replace springs if they're old enough to be causing issues.
Only springs I've ever had to replace were 20+ years old. In one case over a century. I've got 100+ year old firearms with original coil and leaf springs that still work.
Do you replace all your magazine springs annually as well?
>H&R/IJ/HS revolver
If you find one be very picky about condition. They were made very cheaply and don't last. Because they're 22lr people like to shoot them a lot and be rough with them, so they tend to be badly worn out.
I recommend Ruger LCRx (model 5435) if you want something new.
Vertical flight is far more complex than horizontal flight, transitioning from one to the other and back is exponentially moreso. Working out technology that does such a task under all conditions with reliability takes a lot of trial and error, and only the military is willing to risk lives/spend money to do so.
Some tryhard carrying a fully decked out racegun.
>Gun is dead during reload, you don't have the one round in the chamber to defend yourself with that you normally would.
>Accidentally dislodging the magazine also disables the gun.
>Affects the trigger pull, usually in a negative way. Sometimes very noticeable.
>Can affect reliability if badly implemented.
>No it won't get rid of lawyer text on the gun, they'll just scrawl some other stupid warning there.
The only upside I can think of is if you're getting the shit beat out of you and you're losing the grip on the gun you can stun it by dropping the magazine. That was really the original idea, for cops to have a way to disable their gun if they get jumped. That presumes of course that you can hit the magazine release between losing the fight and losing the gun, so as a doctrine it's rather optimistic.
I don’t replace mag springs often. My lgs sells used mags for 10-20 bucks. When I’m buying beretta fn or sig mags I just buy a new spring because at that price it’s a steal even with the spring cost.
here. Yeah, I used to have an old H&R revolver that would hit 10 inches to the right at about 5 yards. I sold it at a gun show, but I still miss it sometimes.
>If true, you are probably replacing springs far too often.
5k is a reasonable amount to replace a recoil spring at. yeah you can get more maybe 5-8k before it starts jamming but if its his carry gun its worth it.
I’ve never replaced a recoil spring before 10k, and the factory Kimber spring on my Warrior was still technically in spec (if barely) when I replaced it at 14k, and that gun eats mostly Super.
Springs have a spec, you can check it super easy if it’s not a captured spring assembly. I think you should keep a spring kit on hand with your other spare parts, but checking spec when you do a thorough clean every 1000 rounds or so makes a lot more sense than replacing it because of round count or whatever.
I have a cleaning mat I bought from Brownells in the early 2000s with the 1911 recoil spring spec marked on the mat, so you just put the spring there and you can see if you’re in spec or not with just a glance. I think Real Avid’s AR mat does the same for carbine buffer springs too.
usually you can feel a spring thats wearing out since recoil increases, and at some point it will stop feeding when you drop the slide release.
What's the best battle zero for 5.7x28 out of a 10.5" barrel? Internet seems to be saying 50/200 but anybody with some insight would be great.
you zero at the distance you'll be most typically shooting at
PS90 SBR or P50? height over bore is basically the question I'm asking. PS90 height makes things interesting, and I personally zero for 100yds and train to aim high at closer ranges. P50 or something else (DB57, CMMG?) still "pistol" status, I'd zero closer like 50
Ruger LC charger with an exps3, HOB looks dead even with every AR I have with a lower 1/3 optic on it.
Anyone have recommendations for a full Lower parts kit + buffer tube and stock to buy on my brand new stripped lower?
I kinda just bought it on a whim and have no idea.
I figure ill just get an upper when i make up my mind but i at least want the lower completed.
>camo breaks up outlines
>printing while carrying is an outline
>therefore wearing camo will prevent printing (at least better than solid colors)
Is this picrel peak carry clothing in hotter enviornments?
Wearing a Hawaiian shirt when you're not fat or in Hawaii is not only a fashion faux pas, it's a huge signal flag that you are carrying
so you are saying I need to be fat to blend in better?
I'm having some trigger reach issues on a Glock 19.5, does the 17's hump being lower affect trigger reach at all? It's not a whole lot, just not quite able to get the pad on there.
The ejector of my Beretta 92FS wiggles a little bit, is it normal? It shoots well though, at least for now
someone once told me that barrels wear out near the chamber and the muzzle.
is it possible to extend the life of a worn out barrel by chopping 2" off the barrel and recrowning? and if headspace allows, chamber reaming?
>is it possible to extend the life of a worn out barrel by chopping 2" off the barrel and recrowning?
Yes. A similar method is to counterbore the crown below the muzzle, that skips the need to cut the barrel down, which is important for military rifles where shortening the barrel would complicate mounting a bayonet.
>and if headspace allows, chamber reaming?
Theoretically possible but very rarely practical. There usually isn't enough material on most barrel tapers to do that. By the time you've cut the damaged portion of the throat and the rifling ahead of it the diameter of the barrel is now too small to be threaded to fit into the receiver. You have to cut back quite far because the reamer used to cut the chamber needs good barrel for its pilot to ride in. With a bull-style target barrel that could be done, since it doesn't taper there will be plenty of material to cut new threads. But unlike messing with the muzzle this sort of thing doesn't happen in practice, it's so much less labor that it's cheaper to fit a new barrel that perform that kind of work.
thats cool. i have a 556 ak thats super hard to find a replacement barrel, when groups open up i might just have my smith chop it down instead. would be funny if this happened a few times and it just got smaller and smaller with use.
If you are talking about a gas-operated rifle then there's no way anything could be done from the chamber end because shortening the barrel from that side would fuck up the distance from the gas port to the rest of the action. What I wrote above was assuming a bolt action. The muzzle could be cut down and recrowned or counterbored though, it's just a question of how much barrel you have sticking out in front of the gas block.
Well he could increase the gas port size to make up for the drop in pressure from a shorter barrel. That or shorten the gas system accordingly. Either way I like the thought of a rifle getting progressively smaller with use
The problem isn't the pressure drop from a shorter barrel--like you said it is easy to drill the gas port larger. The problem is the parts in the gun physically fitting together. He would have to shorten the gas piston assembly somehow otherwise the existing port in the barrel wouldn't line up with the gas piston assembly in his AK.
If I build an AR pistol with a carbine buffer and hold off on getting the stock until I get my SBR tax stamp am I still going to get buttfucked by the ATF? Would it be better to just order the receiver and hold off on building until it goes through?
Wanna get a 20 inch barrel for my mossberg 500 for elk and deer hunting and was wondering if I need to get a rifled barrel or if I can just get a smooth bore? You're allowed to hunt deer with buckshot here but elk you need slugs, but the slugs I see tend to have rifling already made into the slug itself and the videos I've seen show that there doesn't appear to be much of a difference in accuracy with or without a rifled barrel on a shotgun. Would I be able to fire shot out of a rifled barrel just fine or would that cause to much damage to the rifling?
rifled shotgun barrels want saboted slugs. the sabots take full advantage of the rifling.
rifled slugs are for smoothbore but can be fired out of rifled barrels.
the rifiling on rifled slugs does not impart spin. it just gives the slug areas to disperse to as it squeezes through the choke.
rifled shotgun barrels + shot results in a donut hole pattern. not a true doughnut you still have some in the center but way more of the shot ends up at the edges compared to the even pattern of a smoothbore.
Thank you for the information, is there a distinct advantage to using rifled slugs vs saboted slugs?
sabots are more accurate when shot out of a rifled barrel
however out of a smoothbore sabots and normal slugs are roughly the same in accuracy. i say roughly cause ammo choice and type matters. you dont really get the benefit of sabots out of a smoothbore.
then theres the price aspect.
No, they're just different. Generally speaking sabots are more accurate out of a rifled barrel while rifled slugs perform just as well as a sabot slug out of a smoothbore. But that is speaking in broad terms, best thing to do is just like with rifle ammo: buy a box of a few different brands, test them out at the range to see what groups the best. The difference in terminal effectiveness between different slugs is minimal. Accuracy is more important, so worry about that. And the only way to know for certain is to test in your gun.
rifled slugs for untitled barrel
is this auto correct fucking up or is there some language where smoothbore = untitled?
Im looking at three camos for florida:
>Multislop
>ATACS
>Spec4ce Woodland
Votes? Better ideas?
Im looking at three camos for florida:
>Multicam
>ATACS
>Spec4ce Woodland
Votes? Better ideas?
someone talk me out of buying a pulsefire under barrel flamethrower