No matter how much adjusting i do i can't get this cheap piece of shit flat.

No matter how much adjusting i do i can't get this cheap piece of shit flat. It's even worse I'm person, there's a bulge at the infeed so i can't keep anything flat and true. I know i should buy a new good one but i can't afford that. Is there anything i can do to make this useable? It doesn't have to be engineering precise but i do want to be able to cut kind of straight wood

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  1. 1 year ago
    Anonymous

    Frick it maybe I'll run my throat over the blade. What's the point of living anyway.

    • 1 year ago
      Anonymous

      good

      • 1 year ago
        Anonymous

        Fine,i will.

  2. 1 year ago
    Anonymous

    it looks like you bend the metals that support it.

    maybe change the flat surface with a wooden one?
    or add support like wooden pillars?

    • 1 year ago
      Anonymous

      But even the centre piece is warped

  3. 1 year ago
    Anonymous

    any more photos from different perspective?

    • 1 year ago
      Anonymous

      I'll have to get some tomorrow

      I'd take it apart entirely anon. Like not just what you did to assemble it but take it apart as much as possible, look for misinstalled/poorly screwed in stuff and reassemble.

      Take a bunch of pictures n shit, otherwise might be hard to put back together. But the level of warping makes me think you put it together wrong, it had something poorly assembled at factory, or both. And might beef up the table with some supports/plywood reinforcement/somethin idk

      I'll do this

  4. 1 year ago
    Anonymous

    I'd take it apart entirely anon. Like not just what you did to assemble it but take it apart as much as possible, look for misinstalled/poorly screwed in stuff and reassemble.

    Take a bunch of pictures n shit, otherwise might be hard to put back together. But the level of warping makes me think you put it together wrong, it had something poorly assembled at factory, or both. And might beef up the table with some supports/plywood reinforcement/somethin idk

  5. 1 year ago
    Anonymous

    Replace the warped top.

    • 1 year ago
      Anonymous

      With what m8

      Start by taking it off the base frame and level that out. Take the top off and check if it will flex back to level.

      I shall

      • 1 year ago
        Anonymous

        21mm MDF would be an improvement over what you've got going.

        • 1 year ago
          Anonymous

          Do i take off the current top or sit the mdf on top?

      • 1 year ago
        Anonymous

        Are you a carpenter or not? Figure it out.

        • 1 year ago
          Anonymous

          Ah i wad just to assume you meant wood was i?

  6. 1 year ago
    Anonymous

    Start by taking it off the base frame and level that out. Take the top off and check if it will flex back to level.

  7. 1 year ago
    Anonymous

    What brand is that, btw?

    • 1 year ago
      Anonymous

      Cheap sip 10" (Ireland)

  8. 1 year ago
    Anonymous

    Fixed it for you.

    • 1 year ago
      Anonymous

      Get a job

  9. 1 year ago
    Anonymous

    This is why you buy Cast Iron topped saws, always and forever
    Its unsafe to use, replace the top or better yet junk the whole saw.

    • 1 year ago
      Anonymous

      Yes i realise that now. I had no idea. Replace the top how?

  10. 1 year ago
    Anonymous
  11. 1 year ago
    Anonymous

    .

    • 1 year ago
      Anonymous

      Wouldn't a grid pattern of ribs prevent warping? Why are they one way?

      • 1 year ago
        Anonymous

        I have no idea man

  12. 1 year ago
    Anonymous

    ,

    • 1 year ago
      Anonymous

      These two were bumping up front and back of the insert area. Much flatter without them. Still a dip all along the right of the blade area, I'm packing that up with wooden wedges

      • 1 year ago
        Anonymous

        Glued plastic edges about

        • 1 year ago
          Anonymous

          Good job. Maybe those side plates were buckling the mid section. I would remove them and test it on a flat surface. Sheet metal connections are very hard to obtain a precise bend and fit.

          • 1 year ago
            Anonymous

            Yeah probably a good idea actually. I don't really need it that wide anyway

        • 1 year ago
          Anonymous

          You shimmed it? It's creative and might work.

          I'd consider adding metal where the wings are bolted together. If new "joists" or skirting is run both directions then you'll be able to better resist wrapping and twisting.

          • 1 year ago
            Anonymous

            I just bought a welder and was considering making a metal frame and adding a sheet of steel on top but i think I'm in over my head and am going to rerun it and just make some wooden piece of shit. Advice?

            • 1 year ago
              Anonymous

              I took it back. I don't have time to learn how to use a welder

              • 1 year ago
                Anonymous

                I'd consider giving brazing a try with the cheap "alumiweld" things. If you clamp down, bolts might do the trick. It's nice to have a propane torch and be able to sweat a piece of plumbing in a pinch. So I'd probably clamp, bolt, then braze.

      • 1 year ago
        Anonymous

        This is good enough for what I'm doing. I'll be saving up for a cast top in the meantime

  13. 1 year ago
    Anonymous

    it should already be straight, either the previous owner fricked it, or you fricked it.

    get a big level and adjust the legs until its staight. then work on getting the table part of it straight.

    i can see from the photo that the left near needs to go up

  14. 1 year ago
    Anonymous

    Frickin hell man, i just pulled mine out of storage yesterday and it's got the same problem.
    Not as bad as yours, but it's got this lean to one side, I thought my floor was fricked up at first.
    What the hell causes this?

    • 1 year ago
      Anonymous

      China. Cheap fricking shit

  15. 1 year ago
    Anonymous

    Remove top, lay it on a flat surface, like a sheet of thick plywood, and go at it with a rubber mallet until it's completely flat everywhere.

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