My grandfather had this SKS and it was handed down to me, i'd like to get it operational again. What can you tell me about it /k/?
My grandfather had this SKS and it was handed down to me, i'd like to get it operational again.
My grandfather had this SKS and it was handed down to me, i'd like to get it operational again. What can you tell me about it /k/?
serial on the butt
old fashioned mag release? if you even call it that
I was originally worried about these holes in the gas tube, but a quick google search says they are supposed to be there
bolt lever wont budge. Im assuming its corroded shut or maybe i am doing something wrong
step 1, get a penetrating oil into the bolt area.
step 2, run a cleaning rod down the bore (no patch or jag) and see if it's loaded
step 3, disassemble it as much as you can
step 4, clean the rust off of everything
step 5, give it a coat of oil to protect it going forward.
>step 2
this is the smartest thing you will read in this thread. I also have a standard length sks and just did this while unloaded, the rod went 20.5" down the barrel before it stopped. If it is loaded, it will be about 2" less.
So i tried this and i ended up with 20.5" like you said. I (perhaps foolishly) looked straight down the barrel with a light and at the end and i could make out a silver circle with a silver dot in the middle, im assuming thats the firing pin. I am pretty confident it is not chambered
>based norks manufacturing their bolts sideways
Firs thin he should do is out the safety on. Second he should try to get the dust cover off. Then he should spray either PB Blaster or WD-40 (I know not very good pen fluid but it will get in between the bolt I'm sure) then try to mortar it open.
This.
OP, soak the FUCK out of it with some PB or WD and see if you can get the bolt to come back. If so then soak the rest of the gun nice and good.
Once it's apart you have a choice between evaporust or rubbing aluminum foil on it to remove corrosion.
I would recommend the foil unless you want to have to reblue the entire thing because the evaporust WILL remove every bit of blueing.
Do as others have suggested and run a rod down the barrel, I don't know if it's chrome lined or not so it could be fine or it could need some scrubbing.
I would recommend some birchwood casey if you want to touch up the bare spots but be careful.
Once it's good and unfucked just keep it good and oiled, slip 2000 is good and sticks to the metal well. Wipe the wood down with some kind of wood oil to keep it healthy.
Take care of it and it will serve you well.
On a side note you could do what I would do and just rub the entire thing with copious amounts of oil and a cleaning rag until the rust gets polished into a sort of blue state. Then do as above.
Looks Chinese with possibly refinished stock
Definitely Chinese, i couldnt find the serial at first with all the gunk
Jesus did he keep it in an open field or something?
My grandfather passed in the early 90's. My grandmother probably had it in a garage or something similar until now.
Ah know what ah got, boy!
Sell it for 2000 OBO. No low ballers, you know what you got etc etc.
Does it have chinese or russian stamp on the receiver?
It has the /26 from Jianshe Arsenal if you can make it out from here
I looked it up on Yooper John's sks lookup sight and if im reading correctly this rifle was made in 1967
That's the plan. I really would like to have this firing again
You got a solid 99% chance this thing will fire again...after you clean it of course.
Missed your post. I have a similar one made in 1957 that I picked up last year for like 300 bucks. Mine was still slathered in cosmoline. It uses the same 7.62x39 as the AKM but it's a short stoke gas system unlike the AK. Honestly as long as the bolt moves its probably safe to fire but I would throw it in a rest and use a pull string first
Also
I like it, you should get a bayo for it, screw the man.
If it has a triangle enclosing the number 26, it is a Chinese type 56 made in 1967 at the jianshe arsenal. Maybe this should help
https://www.yooperj.com/SKS-24.htm
It's very obviously chinese, look at the stock, look at the serial, look at the bayonet.
Clean that bad boy
Geez, do you live in Florida or something?
It's probably still functional unless the internals are rusted together. Just make sure the firing pin isn't stuck.
For rust removal, remove the wood stock and scrub everything with a toothbrush and ballistol or whatever you have. The rust doesn't look too horrible, no need for anything drastic. Then put a film of oil on all metal parts so this doesn't happen again.
They lived in California, near the ocean where it is consistently foggy
here's a good place to start, OP
Really wish i had that sonic cleaner like dude in this video
But its stripped well enough, time for some deep cleaning
good job so far it already looks like it's cleaning up nicely
congrats on the SKS anon. have fun with it
Looks perfectly fine, how does the barrel look?
Looks good to go already, well done.
Damn anon, good job. Check that the sear (square piece in trigger group) isn't rusted in place. My Chinese one used by Albania was rusted in place and it gave me a hell of a lot of trouble disassembling it to fix that. Also here's hoping your safety spring is in one piece; IIRC either Apex or Sarco or Numrich or someone has some but it's hell to get to and install. BTW on mine PB Blaster was my best friend loosening that rust. Still took me a few days but it helped break it up.
>My Chinese one used by Albania was rusted in place and it gave me a hell of a lot of trouble disassembling it to fix that. Also here's hoping your safety spring is in one piece
Ha, I had those exact same issues with mine. Respect to anyone who messes around with the sks trigger group.
With both of those problems it was hell to take apart. IIRC it prevented me from properly disassembling it because the safety had to be in a certain position and it had to be cocked or decocked. I don't even remember what I did to get it apart but it got apart, I know that. I still don't have my safety spring in place, the safety is just taped off. Both pieces of the spring fell out the moment I got the gun apart, kek.
Also despite all the wear and lack of finish it is the SMOOTHEST SKS I have ever felt. Both in cycling it by hand and the trigger. Shoots okay too.
Dry firing is fine with the SKS AFAIK. I've done it quite a lot getting mine to function. Just clean your firing pin channel to make sure there's no rust or dried up oil in it. If you can get the bolt to cycle by hand and the gun goes click-ping (or something like that) when you pull the trigger and the hammer cocks when you pull the bolt back again it's fine.
>safety spring
if it dangles and has no resistance, it's broken. If it doesn't seem to have any resistance going past halfway by hand, it's broken. It should line up with the rear of the trigger guard (vertical) when on fire. Yours may be worn out somehow but I can't tell over the internet if it's broken or just worn. The safety seems to want to start pulling itself off safety when pulling the trigger somewhere around 45 degrees so be careful; you may not have a functioning safety. The spring is number 8 in this picture.
I dry fired it a couple times (i know, sorry) and everything seemed to be working properly, would that mean it is not rusted in place?
>safety spring is in one piece
The safety seems very loose, not sure if its by design but it kind of dangles, but it's not loose enough to swing into fire position on its own, just about half way
You've got an arsenal 26 (jianshe) chinese sks, with a lot of surface rust.
Grab a can of wd-40, a can of kroil, a bronze brush, and some 0000 steel wool.
for any part that won't move, soak with kroil and retry.
for the surface rust, spray it down with wd-40 and go at it gently with your 0000 steel wool or the bronze brush. one usually works better than the other depending on the area you are working on. follow a full disassembly guide, there are plenty on youtube.
rifle should be fine after that, and after a coat of protective oil is ready for action.
Adding to this excellent advice, bamboo skewers or cheap chopsticks are handy for getting rust chiseled off without fucking the finish.
Also-
DON'T BE IN A HURRY. Let the Kroil work.
OP SKS has on of the best warranties out there. Just email them and send your rifle in!
>that optic
cheek weld?
chin weld?
not a problem if you're this guy!
Try to get that bad boy operational. If you can, the SKS have a favorable aftermarket accessories.
Update lads
Bought some penetrating oil and the surface rust is coming off nicely
That bolt wont budge at all though despite how much oil i put in it
Mortar it
I was just going to say this. Give that damn sks the Paulie Walnuts Brogan Adjustment treatment. https://youtube.com/shorts/FiG-CLiVB7g?si=JevXo7jb5G9XQUhc
Use a mallet to persuade it to open if you have made sure it is not loaded. If it still won't budge, try to just disassemble it, the bolt carrier may have rusted to the guides.
So i managed to get the dust cover pin out, but like the bolt carrier, the dust cover wont budge. I doused it in oil and tried tapping it with a plastic tool with no luck. I dont have a rubber mallet so im going ot call it quits tonight. I have the next two days off to try so ill keep the thread updated if its not dead
Thanks /k/
soak in oil overnight, try persuading it with a rubber mallet the next day
nice work
stomp on the charging handle with your boot, drench it in in the PB until it comes out, it will. Alternatively try to remove the dust cover and see if you can kick it out completely.
Tried this, and not an ounce of movement. Next step is mallet i guess
My father had sks to, poor Man's DMR
im up boys, gonna run to buy a rubber mallet here soon.
is there another tool i should be using to bonk with the hammer? or just use the mallet itself to try to slide the dust cover off?
Mallet was a success!
Now scrub that fucker out until the bolt works smoothly.
The inside bits look alright at least
Done for the day, everything is operating smoothly. Im kind of worried about the gas tube, as far as i can tell the rod doesnt seperate from the tube itself, i added oil to have less resistance so hopefully that gets the job done. Everything internal was rust free anyway and the barrel looks great.
Unfortunately im going to have to wait till next month to fire it
Thanks for all the help /k/
Soak that shit in mineral oil, anon.
The gas tube? I dont think it's that full of gunk, but if its still a problem when i fire it i will try that
>as far as i can tell the rod doesnt seperate from the tube itself
The piston in the portion attached to the handguard should fall out easily. Remove it and put PB blaster around the piston head and it should free it up. Then swab the inside of the gas tube with a 12ga shotgun barrel brush or something and the piston with steel wool. Just remember to keep the oil off the wood because it's real hard to get out. Also the little "piston" in the rear sight block can be removed if you just put the lever up further but be VERY careful as it has a spring behind it and will fly out.
https://www.boydsgunstocks.com/product-configurator