Got bit by the bug playing western games.
Is there a reason to get a levergat in .30-30 anymore if .357 has most of the range and force and isn't as ass-frickingly hard to find due to boomers?
Also levergat thread
Got bit by the bug playing western games.
Is there a reason to get a levergat in .30-30 anymore if .357 has most of the range and force and isn't as ass-frickingly hard to find due to boomers?
Also levergat thread
3030 with a 160 lever evolution going 2450-2550 will always be longer legged then a 357 with a 140 lever going 1900. no question
yeah but you have to match their powder with their bullets to get that speed and it uses large rifle primers, which are hard to find. Handloading .38 costs about 25 cents a round, a 30-30 is going to be more like 60-75 cents. Also the 357 rifle holds twice as many shots.
30-30 is more than that price nowadays. It's pretty much gonna be reloaders only soon at over a dollar a round for hunting ammo. No one makes cheap 30-30 anymore, therefore 357 is the correct choice.
well buying factory rounds yeah, but a primer's 10 cents and the FTX bullets are 25-30 cents apiece. 1/200th of a pound of powder finishes out the cost of a round, and at $30 a pound you're using 15 cents per shots. That's a 50 cent 30-30 round. Getting hard to find powder for old prices though.
I guess with ramshot or something. Though for the sake of argument I'd go with a $40/lb basis for a $0.55 reload. Still, with half the charge weight and xtp's often being in the .25 cent range, .357 will always be significantly cheaper.
>half the charge weight
shit boss, my pet 38 load is 4.7gr unique pushing a 125gr missouri bullet co, the whole round costs a quarter
Lol, lmao
Wouldn't this blow the action and grenade the gun in your face?
Two additional factors. I'm using a slightly longer oal, so I'm not crimping on the cannalure and it's a slower powder (it's either Lil' Gun or H110, can't recall). That was my max load. I think it had mild pressure signs.
For reference, the Lyman book max load for a 125 gr XTP with H110 is 22 gr. I think that's 23 or 23.5, adjusted to match the increase in case volume based on the longer seating depth.
I have little idea about what you're talking about but I hope to in the future.
Unfortunately it looks like I'll be buying 45 LC which is a different beast.
You can also do pissing hot 45 LC loads in most lever guns.
the reason I mention this, each rifle has a purpose. good luck if you don't reload shooting any lever action rifle caliber. as for 30-30, it's a real rifle power level. you use it to get full penetration of medium to larger game like deer and some elk. 357 can be used for deer but it's on the lower end of acceptable. 357 has the benefit of being the best plinking gun and "defensive" caliber against 2 legged threats.
Honestly though, if I want real rifle power out of a lever gun I'd try to get ahold of a long ranger and shoot something with decent long range ballistics.
>.357 has most of the range and force
The best 357 is 30% weaker (fps/energy) than the weakest 30-30 you can find.
If you want to just frick around? 357. If you want to hunt with it? 30-30
That's a bit of an exaggeration. On Wikipedia the weakest .30-30 I see is 1760 ft-lbs. Buffalo bore 158 gr Heavy .357 can get 2150 fps out of an 18.5" barrel for 1620 ft-lbs.
357 is fine for killing white tail if you keep it >= 75yds, which for most of the eastern half of the US is going to basically be 90+% of your shots
30-30 is a good round, gives rifle performance over the 357s pistol ballistics. That said, I would probably only own a lever gun in 357 or 45-70, cause if we're going old, might as well go big too
I am a big moron that played blood west and I have been eyeing something in .45 long colt for the memes.
Is this a stupid fricking idea and should I stick with a .357 offering?
I need to break into levergats, I was eyeing a henry .410 my LGS had for awhile but luckily got talked out of it.
If it's beefy you can load .45 LC up to .44 Magnum specs.
What’s a good beefy 45?
Big boy steel side gate?
1873?
Rossi R92's are about as stout as they come and also the cheapest on the market.
anyone have a Winchester 1892 takedown (or clone) with a 1/2 or 3/4 length mag? I need some pictures of the magazine plug to understand how it works compared to my full length mag
Does anyone know what the new Marlin 336 and 1894 that are coming out in a couple months are supposed to MSRP at? Hopefully it's not over $1k.
It most definitely will be over 1k retail for sure just look at what Henry's cost these days or the moronic prices ppl are losing for the Merlin's
IIRC, Henry's guns used to cost more than Marlin's before Marlin shut down, so it's still possible that they could cost less.
Marlin .30-30's are like $750 at Walmart. No chance in hell Ruger prices competitively.
Sorry, henry, not marlin.
Just hand load or find some hot .357s if you want to hunt since .30-30 is really hard to get
Grizzly has a 200 gr. 1300 fps 800 ft.lbs. load, in the world of 357 how spicy is that?
I won't pretend to be an expert, I'm not sure. Most .357 mag ammo I see off the shelf is something like 158g 1300 fps or something like that.
Out of a handgun, it's pretty beefy. If you want to shoot the .357 that'll recoil the most, that's probably it. Given the grain weight it's more appropriate as a woods gun where you might be worried about bears. Not sure how it'll do out of a rifle, but generally to maximize energy in .357 rifle you want a light bullet (<= 158 gr). Buffalo bore makes some monster loads in that range.
My 357 lever carbine is far and away my most favorite long gun to shoot out of 6.
But it's my only lever gun so what do I know.
Cartridge compatibility with your wheel gun shouldn't be overlooked.
nice, my gun store had a 45-70 rossi with that color combo, thing felt rock solid
My LGS just picked up a Teddy commemorative 94. It's pretty neat
Lol I used ro buy these " commemorative limited edition" 94 for 4-550 a few years ago...
Now I'm strapped with 94, 1894's from the 1910-20 , 1895 Russian and British contract and savage 99, mirokus 1886 and 92 chiappa alaskan, crates of 30-30,44,45-70s, not counting antiques and shotties.
Everyone wanted "muh
And all of you are buying shit marlins 336 that are a downhill dumpster fire since the 80 ies ( not even mentioning the lol 52kpsi max pressure of the 336 architecture), shit henry ( lol 336 copycats but even shittier finish and you pay extra for a kings gate) overpay anything Euro made because cimarron and lol scarcity...
I just sold a 1978 1894m 44mag and a 1894 wild bill Hickok ( tacky shit ) that I bought in an estate sale for 300 and 550 7 yr ago to a try hard boomer for 2k...yep it's a steal I fired it and there's no box lul
So I'll get a 20in build decent ar and optic along with mags and gear with the 120% profit of you gays not buying cool shit at the time...
And now poorgays are coping that muh 357 is just good enough compared to to 30-30 because you didn't bought PPU crates when they were 45cpr...
Ahhh feels good not to be poor man.
I'm not sure if you're expecting anyone to be envious, but I owned lever guns before the moronic price era. For people just getting into it, contending with current market conditions is inevitable. Also, for someone interested in the pressure rating of an action, you sure stock up on a lot of low-pressure shitbox ammo.
>Also, for someone interested in the pressure rating of an action, you sure stock up on a lot of low-pressure shitbox ammo.
Tell me when WWB or corelokt 30-30 was sub 50cts a round... Oh yeah when my daddy was buying in in the ,90 ies...
And sure ppu is slightly slower than Winchester white box, but most of their bad rap comes from their early 170gr that was replicating the 1850 fps of 1910s era 30-30... You know like they did with most of their historical offerings (8 lebel, 30-06 150gr garand load, 139gr 6,5x55swede etc)
150gr ppu is 100 fps slower than say corelokt but at 1/2 the price...
Oh and I reload these with 32,8gr medium n550 and lol 145gr ppu 308 fmj spitzer bullit in 30-30 ppu case at something lige 2550fps outta 24in 1894 as nd savage 99 no biggie...
The only non shit US made brass I can use to do that is starline rem can go frick themselves, Winchester will elongate to much and s&b straight up collet separate...
And I max load 500gr hardcast 45-70 for my miroku... Try it in a gaylin lol
And find me a 336 that can get in the 62-64 kpsi like 92 ( Taurus 454 casull) 94 ( bighorn armory 500 sw, ok it's dorta 94ae not totally) and 95 (30-06)
Protip you can't
T, someone that had the displeasure of giving first aid to a friend that kzboomed a 1895 sbl de emlin garbage...
>with 32,8gr medium
europoor noguns larping, trash bait disregarded
>this whole post
Poor zoomies are jelly that one hand typing phone posting dude bought cool levergats at 20 yr old when all the cool kids decked thousands into larpgear and early gucci ar setups and iptivs that can be had for half the price...
Mmmh sob sob poorgays enjoy your "proudly made in America" craptastic levergats in pistol calibers, wich is perfectly fine with polymer striker fired pistols and gimmicky pccs tho...
If you want an inexpensive levergats get a 22
Otherwise get a .44mag an stfu non of you nigher will shoot your pissin' hot 357 reloads in your gp100...
And 38sp in a gaylin 1894 cowboy is more jammy than an "All them witches" record...
Not being aware of the appropriate .45-70 load is begging for trouble unless you're using one of like 3 guns. It's a strong function of the gun that you're shooting, with the heaviest being for the falling block actions, second tier being for lever guns, and weakest loads being for the 1873's. It's interesting that the Mirokus can handle the absolute hottest loads, though I've never found myself interested in making .45-70 less pleasant to shoot.
92's are still pretty easy to come buy, though the .454 model seems to be difficult to locate. Still, the .45 LC .44 mag model loaded as hot as possible can get some pretty decent numbers.
>second tier being for lever guns,
Yep but here's the kicker : there's less surface contact between a 336 bolt and locking cam than on a 1886...
And the design of the 86 will in case of a catastrophic failure warp itself shut and eventually break in half at the receiver/mag tune junction.
The 336/1895 will grenade it's receiver and wreck your wrist with the lever..
I worked in a serious CAS oriented shop and after a friend kaboomed a 1895 sbl we tried destructive tests on both a 1895 remlin and a miroku that had its barrel trashed by a squib...
I sold all my 336 afterwards.
I'll give you a 7/10, you're squeezing too hard
Too bad you're illiterate as well.
/k/ i have a decision to make
>be in cuckstate
>no semi auto centerfire rifles until 21
>turn 20 in few weeks
option 1 is
>buy .357 henry now
>when 21, buy .357 revolver
option 2 is
>just wait another year
>buy sks or mini and whatever handgun
my concerns with option 2 are the 7.62x39 supply and 10 round mini-14 magazines apparently being bad. what's the situation with .357 and .38 prices?
Buy a lever gun and revolver. At least when you inevitably move out of whatever shithole you live in, you won't have a bunch of ban-compliant compromise guns.
How about option 3:
>buy a .22 rifle
>enjoy shooting for cheap
>go from there
already have 10/22, maverick 88 and savage axis. i could wait but lever actions are cool, and i'd have the handgun ammo for next year
what state? If you don't have any gun I would recommend a mossberg 500 but if you want a rifle just get the levergun since you will already have the ammo when you turn 21. 7.62x39 is not going anywhere soon and other companies are either going to import from other ex combloc nations or make it locally here. What distance are you going to shoot at becasue maybe a bolt action would be a better fit.
Fellow cuckstater here without the age issue.
I bought the Mini-30 in wood furniture like your picrel last year.
I've had no problem getting mags or ammo, mags are spendy 10-round Rugers, shipped right away.
The brass case ammo usually around a buck a round. Got some Norma for .89c. per.
Not cheap but readily available.
It's a great semi auto rifle if you're planning on staying put.
I'd buy the lever action. They're fun to shoot and you'll still enjoy plinking it after you're able to buy modern sporting rifles too. Plus wood furniture lever actions are classy and never go out of style
I’m really interested in the Henry long ranger, would probably be my hunting rifle. Or do you think I should stick to a side gate loading, lever cartridge like 30-30 or 45-70
It's great for hunting
Henry long ranger are browning blr with a small hint of upgrade, they are overpriced for what they are and the mags sucks,
>It's great for hunting
Means
"It's a shit rifle for fudds that will NEVER put more than 3-5 shots trough it in less than an hour and will consider that a 19 rnd yse oer year of use is " good enough.
If you want a shooter levergat in sudo rifle caliber get either:
A Savage 99 c in 308
Od'r a Winchester mod 88
Rhey are both out of production but blow anything out of production.
T, old gay
Depends on your hunting terrain. If you have long shots of a few hundred yds then long ranger def is best. If it's eastern woods the traditional levers with heavier bullets are better.
>newgunz question inbound
Are hollow point rounds generally safe in tubular magazines?
yes. some have feed issues but they are safe as in they won't smack the primer on the round in front of them