/KCT/
Knife Containment Thread and EDC General
About 10% of this board at any given time is knife threads, I propose we slow the over-saturation by using this thread as a Knife General. EDC advise such and welcome as well. Try to keep it PrepHole related though.
Thought provoking question:
>What's your preferred blade shape?
You ever put a glow stick in your butthole?
when i was 15 i duct taped a tennis ball to a thick carrot, put a condom on it and fricked myself with it, i came
Anyone ever buy Katsu knives? The Sakura looks really cool and coated AUS8 with aluminum scales for $110 seems like a good deal for a Japanese made beater.
>$110
>AUS8
GTFO, Even with Bidenflation out of control that's waaay too much for an AUS8 folder.
what knives multitask as a shaving tool and combat knife
Knife+3d printed trim head
Wash your filthy hands and use some moisturiser god damn
God damn these knife threads need to be culled
>RDC
Black person your not spending every day outdoors. Go back to /k/
I want some kind of lightweight EDC I can use on a hike that’s not overly expensive, so I guess a folder. What’s a good budget option?
You don’t need a folder for EDC. Horizontal carry with a small fixed blade is way more comfy that a big folder in the pocket
What is going on with that grips blade?
Depends where you live, in some places (like CA) folders are fine but concealing a fixed blade is illegal unless it's tiny. Pulling a fixed blade out also freaks normies out even more than a folder.
Lion Steel M1 or Izula II.
>that’s not overly expensive, so I guess a folder
plenty of cheap (under 30 bucks) fixed blade options FYI
Disgusting sausage fingers. Stop eating you fat frick.
>What's your preferred blade shape?
Precise.
gotta have my tools
Definitely my favorite knife although I tend to go ahead and give it a convex edge since I like that more than the scandi they come with.
>precise
>doesn't post a precise blade
The more you post the more I'm convinced you're a dumbass.
>surgical blades aren't precise
You would think they would be- maybe I got a bad one, then.
Wtf is precise to you then??
Definitely not a mora with its frick long blade. This is why scalpels have such small ass blades and you hold it more like a pencil, that's precise, not this larping ass cringe shit.
>is angery
>elected to ignore
You would think they would be- maybe I got a bad one, then.
You'll see it when you believe it, kiddo
All you need is either an Opinel or a Victorinox amongother exceptions. Everything else is just CONSOOOOOOOOMMMM!!! Fight me.
Hey guys I'm gonna get an Opinel (the regular cheap one, no 8 inox), I found myself in situations (daily, not necessarily outdoors) where I needed a knife (actually needed a knife, not opening boxes, you can do that with a key ffs).
Like said, all else is probably just consoom. Perhaps the leatherman oht is useful, but for my case it's definitely overkill and I also don't have that much money.
Do you have any suggestions for a flashlight and other additions to an edc? But I'm talking about actually practical stuff. Right now I only carry a lighter, which I do happen to need regularly as well (not for smoking). I don't really need or want something expensive, just something regular.
Thanks in advance.
>flashlight
if you really need it, Convoy S2+ is the cheapest good flashlight I can think of, and it's popular for a reason
I switched to a Wurkkos FC11 because I wanted a built-in charger
budgetlightforum has reviews on a lot of them and more info if you want to become really autist
but I don't think most people actually need a flashlight... I keep mine in the car all the time because it's the only place I actually needed it in the past
>but I don't think most people actually need a flashlight...
Yeah, you're right, at least in my case; the phone flashlight is enough considering I don't really use it that much. Thanks for the advice.
>opinel
Look, while it may be "pride month" on the rest of the world, we're still gonna call you a silly homosexual for even considering it.
>a simple, compact, cheap pocket knife is for silly homosexuals to consider
How so?
It's French
In all seriousness, it's a good knife. I carried a no. 6 for work before getting my 112, it's great if a little rudimentary
>rudimentary
I, too, see that, but the thing is that I rarely had a need to use something else than a blade — sometimes a screwdriver but one can easily improvise that tool in different ways. Alongside that, multitools such as swiss pocket knoifs are quite out of my budget.
>112
This is unfortunately not available for purchase where I live, and on line it's about two times the price of the simple opinel.
The opinel fits my use case — and budget — very well, and I've so far only hears good things about it. My friend has one which was gifted to him many years ago and it hasn't failed him, plus I've seen a couple od guys over the years carry an opinel regularly.
I'm very surprised that a blade so cheap has such good reputation, but I suppose since the design is so simple there is no practical reason to charge more.
Opinel is BOSS. Anyone who thinks otherwise is just seething and coping. Opinel are affordable workhorses. They're classic, timeless, and aesthetic. They come in many sizes, carbon or stainless, and styles. If you want to spend a little more, they even have different woods for handles.
>bububut my overpriced benchmade and spyderco are super steel and cost me money, and I just like looking at them and not using them. I must CONSOOOOOOOM!!! I LOVE SPYDIEHOOOOOOLEE!!!
>Alongside that, multitools such as swiss pocket knoifs are quite out of my budget.
there are more budget SAK's available (not sure about leathermans though). If all you need is a blade and a screwdriver, i'd reccomend a victorinox bantam. Comes with an easily sharpenable 2.5 inch stainless blade, a multi use tool for bottle opening, can opening, wire stripping, and use as a screwdriver, and a toothpick and tweezers. It's about 30 bucks after shipping and tax on the site, but you can definitely get it for cheaper. Overall it's a very handy knife for an affordable price
Thanks for the tip, that sounds like a good package.
>carbon or stainless
Now that you mention it, I've got to ask:
What are the significant differences other than the carbon steel developing a patina and the stainless steel not developing it? How easy is it for a carbon steel knife to get actually rusty, not just grey?
Honestly anon, I have the opinel no. 8 carbon and shes razor sharp. Just dry her after use, and keep her oiled. Eventually she will develop a patina. You can also force a patina in different ways. I'd rather just use and care for her. I'm not familiar with their stainless, but am eyeing their stainless slimline folding fillet for a my trout kit. As far as I know, carbon doesnt chip as easy, sharpens faster, but may need to be stropped/sharpened more often than stainless. Stainless takes longer to sharpen? SOMEONE correct me.
I've yet to sharpen my opinel.
I mainly use my SAK Huntsman for EDC/innawoods.
At this point in steel technology carbon and stainless can be quite close in terms of performance. If we are talking simple carbon steels to simple stainless then these are the main differences:
Carbon steel
Rely on high hardness for edge durability
Easier to chip because of higher hardness.
Finer grain and lower carbide content, which means easier to sharpen.
Higher hardness also means removing your burr is going to be a lot easier.
Rusts
Stainless
Higher carbide content.
Carbides are harder than martensitic steel. They provide edge retention, but also make sharpening slower.
Stainless is generally tougher than carbon. Mainly from lower hardness.
Higher toughness and softer steel means removing burr will be trickier.
Super cheap stainless is generally trash compared to super cheap carbon steels.
Compare 300 and 400 series stainless to w2, 1084, 1094 etc.
If we're talking super steels and high end alloys it really depends and you can get ridiculous characteristics from both it just depends on what you want in a blade steel.
Stainless and carbon steels produce a different feeling cutting edge as well. Neither is better just a tastes thing at the end of the day.
Interesting write up, anon. I did learn a fair bit from your post. Thank you!
Now, I could be wrong, but I thought carbon "rolled" more so than chipped, where stainless chipped instead of "rolling"? Lemme know, please. I do find this stuff interesting.
So your carbon steels hold an edge longer than your stainless? Maybe the other anon I'm replying too will shed light on this?
Chipping occurs instead of rolling when steel has low toughness. Generally speaking inexpensive stainless is tougher than simple high carbon steels. A cheap stainless may be hardened to around 55-57 hrc whereas an inexpensive high carbon steel will be in the 60-65ish range. Essentially steels have a range where toughness peaks out. If you want a harder blade you need to sacrifice toughness. If you want a tougher blade vice versa. Different steels have different ranges of attainable and useful hardness.
I believe he is specifically referring to inexpensive stainless vs. High carbon steel. In general all simple high carbon steels are inexpensive and perform very well for their price, especially compared to similarly price stainless, but they rust.
Thanks for spoon feeding me, anon.appriciate it!
Glad to help!
Here's a graph of high carbon steels in their optimal hardness/ toughness ranges. More or less hardness will reduce toughness interestingly enough.
Do you know what steels your blades are? All of what I'm saying is more specifically for high carbon steel. I would guess some outdoor knives maybe be in the medium, medium high carbon level, which would greatly increase toughness at the sacrifice of hardness.
Out of the knives pictured, i know the name of the steel for 6. Others are unamed stainless or high carbon. And yeah, i mainly have more experience on the softer end of carbon blades, so I generally consider carbon over stainless when it comes to toughness
Those graphs are strange and kind of confusing too. In real world
Use, IME, carbon steel holds an edge a bit better than stainless when it comes to <$75 budget knoifes. They also seem to sharpen really easily, something that’s not told in the HRC/ toughness graphs.
You have it backwards. Chipping occurs in very hard material, plastic deformation easily occurs in softer material.
>.t steel worker (machining and press brake)
>So your carbon steels hold an edge longer than your stainless?
Generally, yes. I'm mostly talking about knives in the $15-$40 price range, as I've had higher end stainless knives have edges that last longer than my carbon blades. It mainly depends on the hardness of the steel, although edge retention is a little more complicated than just that
Interesting view. Most of the carbon blades I've come across are much softer than that, and are generally easier to sharpen than my stainless blades. I've had about 4 knives in carbon so far and the hardest out of them is my higo (60-61 HRC)
>Most of the carbon blades I've come across are much softer than that, and are generally easier to sharpen than my stainless blades.
I have a Matsubara made of White #1 carbon steel (pic
). It's my hardest knife at 65-66 HRC and surprisingly it's one of easiest to sharpen, while holding its edge for 6-8 months with my use.
I have a couple of stainless steel knives in SG2/R2 (62 HRC) and I have to spend a lot of time on the wetstone every time they need resharpening. They hold their edge for 4-6 months.
>So your carbon steels hold an edge longer than your stainless?
That's basically WHY people who like carbon knives, like carbon knives. The extra carbon makes the steel harder, which makes it harder to abrade and deform. So once you have an edge on it, it simply takes MORE to lose that edge, than it would take if the metal was softer.
The trade off is that you can't get away with the same no/low maintenance use that you can with an Inox knife. If you have a stainless knife you throw in the boat or in a tackle box and forget it for a while, that's fine. If it was a carbon knife, you'd be much more likely to open the box after a winter of forgetting it existed and find a big brown rusty surprise. So Inox lets you get away with almost no maintenance, but you will have to dress the edge more often.
This is definitely the best explanation of carbon v stainless steel I've seen online, thank you a lot, anon.
I bought the Opinel no. 8 stainless, I don't feel like thinking about when I should put some oil on a carbon knife, etc., although it also seems like a good choice.
>As far as I know, carbon doesnt chip as easy, sharpens faster, but may need to be stropped/sharpened more often than stainless. Stainless takes longer to sharpen? SOMEONE correct me.
Right on all but one. Carbon generally holds an edge better than stainless in the same category. I have a case sodbuster jr. in tru-sharp (budget stainless) and an opinel no. 6 in carbon, and i find myself sharpening the sodbuster about twice as often
The main advantage of stainless is corrosion resistence, and carbon beats it out in most other ways
nice supertool
Carbon steel is shit in a temperate climate. They are high maintenance in any environment though. There is no real reason to have a carbon steel pocket knife as the added hardness doesn't really matter at all.
Carbon steel is for like saws and axes where hardness actually matters.
>Carbon steel is shit in a temperate climate. They are high maintenance in any environment though.
Maybe compared to stainless. All you really do is oil the blade every once in a while, maybe every couple weeks if you use it in a wet environment. Just wipe it off if it gets wet
>There is no real reason to have a carbon steel pocket knife as the added hardness doesn't really matter at all.
Cheap carbon steel holds an edge better than cheap stainless, and depending on the HRC can be super easy to sharpen up
I carry a carbon steel knoife 7 days a week in South Florida where it’s humid as frick and rains daily half the year and I’m sweating at work and at the beach at least once a week.
No real issues with the 1095 Esees. I’ll put a drop or two of 3-in-1 oil on the edge like once a month if I got rained on bad at work. The spring steel on the belt clip is rusting far faster than either of the knoifes.
If you’re not using it as a boat knife and you carry the thing regularly and don’t stick it in wet and humid storage, it should be fine.
>I live in Florida and come home every night to AC
I live in WA state where you can spend a week (or more) in the wilderness. I've had a carbon steel machete, and hatchet rust after two days innawoods. If you want to larp the CS for EDC sure, whatever, if you want something reliable innawoods than get stainless.
Put a Patina on the blade and wipe it down before sheathing it, problem solved.
T. Some one who constantly camps in the HOH rain forest while using carbon steel blades.
> Open package with a key.
> Bit of glue sticks to the key.
> Glue ends up in the lock, ruins it.
Many such cases.
Sad.
>Open package with knife.
>Cut through the content inside.
>Product ruined.
Many such cases.
Sad.
> Open package with another package.
> Don't know how to open the last package.
> Have to send it back.
Many such cases.
Sad.
Why do we like knives so much? What's so good about them?
I started cooking just because I liked knives. I like to cut with them, to sharpen them or to simply look at them.
It's one of our oldest and simplest tools. It's the practical application of the wedge. It's been our teeth since pre-history. The knife is as much of a companion to mankind as the domestic dog.
It really is.
what puukko is this? I love this exact blade shape but I think I've seen it only in expensive handmade ones or blade blanks you're supposed to finish yourself
strongly considering the latter
no idea what they're actually doing but machining the handle in one piece and then bending it slightly to slip a pivot between the scales into pre-machined slots seems like one easy solution
It's the latter. It's a puronvarsi blank. Something like 57-59hrc. Bit of a b***h to sharpen but easy to keep sharp. Weird ass semi hollow rhombic profile you only find on hand forged and finished blades, terrible for chopping root veg but does meat and wood like no one's business.
Would recommend if you have the tools. All sizes to choose from on Thompson scandi knives or brisa and scaling the handle to how you use it is game changing. I based mine off a few but the main one had a teardrop handle like this.
The humans who didn’t like knifes got murdered by the ones who did over tens of thousands of years so their dna wasn’t passed on
Knows what’s up
It’s all oily because it sits unused in my garage since the small fixed blades are so much more useful as an EDC
I only use the PM2, got a decent collection including a titanium scale bugout. But for knife uses the pm2 is all I really need
>collection of expensive knives that never cut anything
Pottery
tbf the pm2 and bugout are easily the most expensive with the third place being 80 bucks.
Still moronic to have knives I dont use though
What good made in japan knife to replace my tenacious as my backup? I was thinking a delica, but is there something anon recommends?
Americans lol
Also, i want a decent knife. I am looking at the PM2 or the RAT 1 because i like flat blades. Any other suggestion? Which blade should i get?
>PM2 or the RAT 1
What's your budget? Those two knives are VERY different.
I am not american, so i am looking at something between 20/25 dollars. Yes, i am looking at chinese knives. Do you recommend any "flat" looking knive?
I made this one for a customer. Basically said hunting knife and a budget.
52100 steel, 60-62ish hrc. 150 bucks.
Thoughts? He hasn't picked it up yet..
Looks good anon
Would kill myself with. Great work anon
Looks nice. Is that really a hunting knife though? Looks more like a butchering knife or a kitchen knife but then again I don't hunt so what the frick do I know
Unless it was pretty big, i'd say it's a fairly good design for hunting. Plenty of belly, decent steel (not stainless, but people have been butchering animals with carbon blades for millennia so no big deal), looks like a hollow grind as well.
That being said, I dunno how big it is, so if it's 5+ inches on the blade it would be a bit bulky for a hunting knife
It's 4ish inches. Full flat with a decent distal taper. The taper isn't too extreme to keep it tough. The heat treat was for maximum toughness along with a 17 degree edge and relatively thick behind the edge.
Fair enough. Sounds like it'd double as a general outdoors knife as well. What kinda wood did you use for the handle?
African blackwood. Oilly and extremely dense wood.
Nice, I'm starting to understand the $150 pricetag. have you made many clip-points?
150 is a pretty good deal for a handmade knife, I think. I mainly do kitchen knives, so this is the only clip-ish point I've made. Takedown bowie for fun and to learn the process. I've got a crazy 16 inch takedown in the works, but I've been busy making sanmai and pattern welded steel with my new forge press.
8 inch blade, quarter inch thick 26c3. Ironwood handle, with mild steel fittings.
Where can I buy the kitchen knives anon?
Email me at [email protected]
Animals are food, so yeah, a knife that looks like it could make an animal into food makes sense when you think about it a little.
>Thoughts?
Nice FFG, good belly, only thing I don't like is the ricasso, I prefer everything that's not a handle to be a cutting edge, to more closely resemble a small chef knife that can rock, chop and slice, but overall quite nice for the price.
I've actually butchered animals and you really need three different tools.
A. A boning knife, you can actually use a triangular profile spike
B.A butcher's knife
C. A skinning knife
Anyone who tries to combine these is a fool.
2/3 Are barely knives at all, the boning knife is a spike on a stick you use briefly and the skinning knife needs a very specific profile but isn't a work of art either.
I'd make a set of three for hunting, but my gut feeling is most of the people "hunting" don't hunt, don't kill anything, or can't be bothered field dressing let alone doing full butchery.
They just hack off a horn or a paw with their bowie knife.
Nobody want to do four trips to the kill site over two days to retrieve and haul quarters of a gnawed on deer carcass.
Honestly I'd copy the profile of a popular band of kitchen knife, use better steel and engrave them to order.
Biggest money in dowry ware
Is the para 3 lightweight worth the 20 dollar increase from the delica? I like the whole it has an employment method, but I'm not sure if I'm looking to shell out for the PM2.
>whole it has an employment method,
Bro do you even English?
If Spyderco made a Para 3 salt I'd buy it. Otherwise I'm perfectly happy with my Osborne
Mexican leather sheaths are good sheaths.
Resident buckgay here, I agree wholeheartedly.
The sheath for my 2005 110 is still in great condition, even after extenstive carry
I know Spyderco is a meme, but is the Para 3 law worth it for $106 USD? That's the cheapest I can find it here for in Canada.
got laws about length in Canada? If so it's a good knife.
Have been carrying my endura 4 for a few years now. Take it everywhere. Has the tip broke off,superglued the screws on the clip because they just wouldnt stay tight. But that's what makes it so great. It's my knife and has never failed me.
Can you sharpen it?
Yes. Kind of a pain becausebits serrated though. But since it is serrated it doesnt get dull much.
Does it make sense to have a serrated blade as EDC though?
What would they be good for, apart from cutting through rope quickly?
I forgot to put all my knives in my check bag while flying and they got confiscated...
Granted it was just all the knives I'd accumulated from my scouting years so they weren't too expensive but it's not about the money; those knives had memories...
You can usually have them ship them to you...
For me it's my garter knives
You have really nice legs anon
found this knife from the pocket of my 20 year old airsoft pants and started carrying it around
sharpened it and after little oil and tightening i have my old buddy back even if i have no recollection of owning illegal knife like this
Our autistic friends at Dutch bushcraft knives have determined that the terava jakaripukko is the best knife for the money for bushcrafting. Why don't you guys meme these knives as much as mora's?
You can buy 4 mora's for the price of one terava?
And I have, and appreciate a terava, but it's so goddamn thick, it's offputting. I would rather have a 4" blade or less with half the blade thickness, personally.
This is why I simp for mora. I 'could' get a really nice knife for 400 that feels great and is super reliable, but most mora's I own can be maintained with just a handheld diamond block, like the DC4, they're far cheaper, work just as well and come from a pretty reputable company. Hell, I bought my bushcraft and the sheath didn't have the attached sharpener and fire starter. Sent it back, got a message the proper one was on the way and they included a free companion fire butt version. I could buy a Helle for 200, but I just know I'd be happy with an 80 dollar mora.
in my opinion terävä is basically a cheap alternative to finnish sissipuukko while mora has the reputation of being the most basic and cheap everyday/throwaway knife there is
mora is for working and something you use to scrape off stuff and such no matter the edge because you can get a new one for pennies
How exactly is it better than a mora? i know they're full tang and have nice sheaths, but whats so great about em? Almost everyone i've seen who owns one has only good things to say, i just dunno how it compares
They are nothing like normal moras, they are more similar to the more expensive $100 garberg while also being a superior knife. 80crv2 is a very good steel and they have a good heat treatment that makes the edge fairly stable, hard 59hrc, but fairly easy to sharpen. It will rust if you don't wipe it down though. It's like cpm 3v-lite. It's got a really nicely textured full rubber grip which is good for the cold like the traditional finnish knife it's based on, no exposed metal in the handle. I use the skramas for yard work more than bushcrafting and they hold up well and I sometimes reach for them instead of an axe. Watch a couple videos on the terava knives it will explain it better than I can in text.
I am in a look for a dedicated folding whittling knife. What would you recommend for the task? I have a bigger knife for larping purposes and feeling like a big boy, so this pocket knife would be only for whittling, nothing else. Preferably nothing too expensive though.
Nagao Higonokami (bottom knife)
Affordable, easy to sharpen, holds an edge for a while, novel design, comes in multiple sizes/handle materials, and carries quite nice.
If it's good enough for japanese kids to sharpen their pencils, it's good enought to whittle with
What's up with LionSteel and their no fasteners knife? How do you keep the blade in place?
The plate is glued on to cover up the fasteners?
Finally decided to take a pic of my full collection. Had to clear off the entire shelf to do it, but it is what it is.
Also don't mind the ferro rod, I took it out of the sheath it was in because i wanted to wash out the dirt that got in there and forgot I put it there
Any experience with Sandrin Knives here?
The tungsten carbide blade seems cool, but I don't know if it's worth the effort to get in Canada.
I've messed with some zmax steel(70 hrc) and it is unbelievable how hard it is to sharpen let alone get a decent finish on it.
It is also absurdly brittle. Low grit diamond, whoch is the only way to sharpen it will chip the blade just from sharpening.
You have to use roughly 400 grit to set bevels or it chips out like crazy. You also need a very shallow edge angle because it's so brittle. Usually 18ish degrees or more per side.
Any knives with a similar shape and look in australia? Want to do a tarkov scav costume (while also actually using the knife) and the knife is the hard to find part right now. The company that makes the inspiration version doesn't ship to Aus right now because of, well ukraine, so I want to get something at least close.
The buck vanguard is pretty similar looking and preforms quite well. It's an american knife, but unless australia has rules against it you can buy one online
The Military 2 is coming. It was at Blade Show.
See you gaygits, this'll be my last noif.
>It was at Blade Show
are there actual knife shows in america
Yeah, trade shows are big business. Shot Show, the firearms one, is one of the biggest trade conventions of all, just behind the consumer electronics and construction machinery shows.
Finished up a new style of knife I was trying out. Kinda hate the look of the handle, but it feels really good in the hand. Quite difficult to shape. The hamon is a bit low on the blade also.
looks good ! Isn't the handle a little bulky though ?
And how did you learn how to do this, all by yourself ?
It may look a bit bulky, but in the hand it feels pretty good. I made the bolster by eye first and followed that for the handle. I think the angle was a little steep, which made the handle flare out a bit too much. I need to sharpen and use it some to really decide. The epoxy is still drying.
The blade is somewhere around 4" long and maybe .8" tall for reference, so a fairly small knife. You can see more of the profiling in this picture. This handle style fits the hand really well.
I learned all the stuff I needed to online, but it takes a crap load of experience, a lot of patience and some expensive machines to do things well. This knife took probably 12-15+ hours to make.
.
Tired of deciding between a folder and a fixed blade? Why not have the best of both.
though my country isn't as cucked as bongland, I'm getting absolutely shafted by drill rap kids. Automatic and butterfly knives are never going to get unbanned. Even though I live in a rural town carrying a PM2 will still get the police all uppity
Which country? Lost of legislations have laxxed in recent years due to more and more people realizing they're no more dangerous than a folder and nowhere near as fast as a switchblade
What I carry every day. It's such a habit for me that I've taken my multitool to bars and have gotten it confiscated a few times. Some bouncer even kept it once and said he didn't know what I was talking about when I asked for it back
Surge chads rise up
got a benchmade bugout the other day. it's much lighter than I expected, to the point where it feels extremely flimsy and would probably break with little resistance. are spyderco knives like this as well? they were the other edc flippers i was looking at (though all of the spyderco ones i like have the unlock button on the inside of the handle which I fricking hate)
No, the Bugout is notoriously flimsy -feeling because of its light weight. It uses FRN handles and super minimal liners. It’s still a decent knife, it just feels kinda cheap. Spyderco tends to use G10 scales and beefier liners, so they feel a lot sturdier in the hand. The expense is, of course, weight. A PM2 is gonna weigh twice as much as a Bugout.
PM2 feels sturdy and reliable
The Spyderco UKPK (the standard version with FRN scales and no liners) is like this as well, abd oftwb has a too weak clip which is how I lost mine. Most Spydercos however gave G10 scales or steel liners under the FRN, which makes it sturdy and with the right bit of heft.
say i'm not really into knives as a hobby or interest but i like carrying one. do i need anything more?
hiking/sports: opinel no.6 with a lanyard hole
backpacking: morakniv 511
bushcraft/fixed camping: morakniv companion
edc: ???
only thing i haven't figured out or settled on is a small fixed knife for edc that fits a middle ground of being useful as a tool but practical for self defense.
i know knives are a poor primary form of self defense but its no skin off my back to have a small one and i actually did take a few years of non mcdojo lessons on how to use them properly. i think its a lot more realistic and likely i may have to use one on someone's shitbull if it attacks my dog more than anything.
morakniv companion
how good is it for random carving? I know mora produces specialized carving knifes, but you know... letting the evening pass with some carving in sticks seems nice.
Also why dont you go for the expensive knifes? Life fällkniven etc.
Not trying to convince you, I am just wondering what the point of expensive knives is.
Moras are fine for carving/woodwork, from the basic companion to their more expensive models.
I'm not him, but generally I look for a knife thats best for the price instead of the best in general. If something does everything something else does for considerably cheaper, why opt for the more expensive one?
And generally people get expensive knives if they suit them better than the cheaper ones. I'm fine with basic steels, but some people like something you don't gotta sharpen for months with some really grippy handle. i understand it, it's just not my style
Mineral oil is my go to, never had rusting in knives I've used it on. Make sure its food grade mineral oil if you plan to use it for food prep or skinning game
>hiking/sports: opinel no.6 with a lanyard hole
hiking/sports/food prep: opinel STAINLESS no.6 with a lanyard hole
forgot that part, i have the steel one so that it can be useful for food prep and foraging and prepping fish in a pinch.
By food prep, do you just mean cutting up food as you eat it? I don't see a knife that size being too good for extensive food prep (chopping fruits/vegetables or preparing meat), but i have in the past used pocket knives that size for cutting up some pork or ribs or whatever I'm eating. Not sure how I'd manage with a wood handled knife for that though, so I'd probably reccomend one of the plastic handled ones for outdoors use
just stuff like that, i don't mean fixed camping prep just ultra basic tasks
i only mentioned it because its the only reason i opt for stainless over carbon
any anons tried a tops poker? what did you think of it?
I bought a Brothers Of Bushcrap Fieldcraft survival knife (the sheath comes with flint and a whistle)
Had it now for about 5 years. Used it maybe twice, mainly because I spend a frickton on it. But I think i'm going to give up and just use the shit out of it this summer. if it snaps or breaks, whatever. I'm just gonna beat it with some rocks and shit to split wood. wish me luck
How much is that knife?
I think I got it for about $120
Stuipid question maybe, I allways hear: oil your carbon steel knife.
What oil do you use for that? Balistol? How often do you need to oil? After each use?
Mineral oil at home, chapstick in the field.
Forgot to answer your last 2 questions
It really depends on the steel you're using and the conditions you use it. I oiled my opinel about every 2 weeks when i EDC'd it, but if you live somewhere more humid it may need to be more often. After every use is pretty excessive for any knife, so you probably don't need to do that
should I be oiling even if i haven't used it/been PrepHole with it if im in a humid spot?
You should go through your carbon steel knives once or twice a year and wipe them down with oil, make sure nothing is starting. If you do that you won't have any problems.
thanks
>oil katana after each use
what do you use a katana for?
>I'd have to kill you if I told you
Cut poolnoodles in the garden like the weeb I am
I oil my katana after each use and oce every 5-6 months when storing it
Finally got the wrought iron cladding to work. This is going to be a cool knoif, lads.
whats a decent sharpening system thats easy to use? I dont wanna learn how to use a proper whetstone, I just want something thats simple and gets me most of the way there.
Rapalas come with a pull through.
Spyderco Sharpmaker
The Lansky thing is like the #1 shilled. I still use the $10 pull-thru on the EDC Esees because somehow that shit works great on carbon steel blades
Project Farm autistic guy on Youtube actually had a decent video comparing a handful of the popular sharpening systems as well if you want to go with one beyond a pull-thru but not full Japanese whetstone collector tier.
Cut your fricking nails, damn dude, shit's disgusting.
i dont understand what benefit a knife has to offer you at all. like i cant think of anything id use it for while outdoors. knives are for robbing convenience stores and opening mail
>opening mail
That is basically all I use it for. Still happy I paid for a 940 though, does that make you mad?
you know what? yeah i am. you fricking piss me off. stupid bullshi.t god you're a fricking pussy
Cry harder bich
thanks for bumping my thread
same opening mail, packages and fishing line
it doesnt seem like a knife is necessary at all then
for (you)
>falling for the weakest bait
I genuinely dont think you should handle a knife.
Didn't make the reply for the gay, there's just a weird notion among a decent bit of people hold that there are next to no uses for knives while PrepHole and I wanted to set the record straight
Frick ya muddah
stay off /k/, then
>What is food prep
>What is making feathersticks
>What is opening packages of food while PrepHole
>What is hunting
Other than those uses, knives are very versatile tools that you can use for most other uses in a pinch.
If you don't personally have a use for a knife, get a multi-tool like a leatherman or SAK. Then, you can use the other tools for the stuff you usually do, and you still have a blade in case you need it
>on PrepHole
>sees no purpose for a knife
You're either a baiter, a newbie so new to the concept of going outside you don't know what a tree is, or actually moronic. My bet is on baiter
but he's right? a knife is more superfluous to be honest. I don't pretend that mine serve any use other than autism
>still falling for the weakest bait
Please turn in any cutlery you own; you clearly are not fit to possess it.
>people who dont use knives
sure thing, nipplehead
Why....why why why.....doesnt anyone ever I mean ever talk about the cold steel AD-10??? Am I the only damn person who has this knife?
It's a pretty by the books large folder, so I see why it isn't shilled as much as other cold steels
Why should I consider the ad-10 over something like a recon 1 or american lawman?
Vprnw
very happy with the leek for edc
>Wharncliffe EDC
based
thats not a Wharncliffe
This
Also it’s super fricking easy to snap the tip off those things, see the little CRKT in the pic. I wasn’t even prying really. And the bigger one with the same design, that Dragon CRKT knoife, the tiny tip on that is slightly bent even though I have never really used it.
In case I’m surrounded by Canadian geese or Harkonnens.
I downed a tree twice my size with a bowie knife just to spite the "Just buy a hatchet" gays
>i banged my head against a wall
>just to spite the "You gonna get braindamage" gays
Seethe
Will do boss
made u respond lol
I'm a degenerate larper who cuts down trees with bowie knives, luring a response out of me isn't exactly a major win
>no relevant matches
Congrats cutting down a tree with a shit hunk of steel. Now sharpen your frying pan and use that.
Congrats, you killed a tree to prove a point on 4chun.org
The point was secondary, I just felt like doing it
And if you're trying to inject moralism into it, I'd kill every living thing in a 1 mile radius just to prove i could, thats what happens when you make bets with morons
Fatherless vibes
Obviously. Look at what he wastes his hard earned money on.
>Zoomer speak
Try harder
like 20 dollars
If you were thinking I'm a tree hugger, you were mistaken. I thought you'd have realized sooner, about half my pics with the bushman are the knife dug into the stump of a tree
Not a tree hugger, but a decent person who appreciated a good knife without needing to stoop so low as to wreck a patch of nature to show people on a forum how bad you are. I'm soory you have to spend fathers day this way, someone will reach out to you one day
>wreck a patch of nature
Here we go being moralist homosexuals again
If it eases your precious wittle heart, there was only 3 trees (1 dead, alive) that I chopped it with, along with brush along trails and shit. Hardly wiping out a "patch of nature"
and to address your non stop projection about fathers day, i spent it going to church and eating with my family, and texted my dad happy fathers day. All things you wish you could do
>texted my dad happy fathers day. All things you wish you could do
That's cute; I told him in person.
>moralist homosexuals!!!
Wouldn't describe myself that way, but the way you act perhaps there is a need for it.
>That's cute; I told him in person.
Are you trying to make how we talk to our dads a dick swinging contest? I'm not even mad, thats funny as shit
>Wouldn't describe myself that way, but the way you act perhaps there is a need for it.
Whine all you want, I'm gonna do as I please and there's little to nothing you can do to stop that. Cry about it
No.
And sure, keep acting out because of people online- shows how much control of your life you have. The fact that you don't get that is truly sad.
Good day.
>It's "acting out" to have fun with your knives while outside
Alright anon, go back to the nursery, one of the babies is hungry for your milk
Not what I said. It's "acting out" to do something because of pressure to in spite of others' impressions of you.
"If YOU do this, I will do that" is what I mean.
You've been punctuated. Won't be seeing you around.
>It's "acting out" to do something because of pressure to in spite of others' impressions of you.
Did you really have to dig this deep to come up with an argument? I only do things to "prove" something if I think it'd be fun to do. Wailing on a tree with a knife is fun, so I both get the fun of doing it and the satisfaction of proving some homosexual wrong. If there's no fun involved, theres not much there for me
You continue to post about how what you do is based, atleast partly, on the opinions of others. You are not proving my point wrong. Now respond with another half-baked retort.
>I'm not entirely incorrect therefore I win, now have some reverse psychology so I don't have to stress my pea-brain any further
This is /k/ levels of autism
Everyone atleast slightly bases their actions on the will of others, thats how society works. i'm deeply sorry that in your desperate attempt to debate-lord me you forgot the concept of society and interacting with other human beings
>Responded.
Thank you, heel.
refer back to
You still chopped down a live tree, then you post about it on some basket weaving anime forum. You're a c**t.
Hey, if that's how you feel, that ain't my problem. I'm a c**t, and you're a whiny tree-hugger
Cry more
Oh.. cold steel anon, I thought you were better than this.
It does seem that way..
Oil the heat for liner locks and frame locks? Is it just because it's not fidgety enough for you b***hes? Gotta have your le Spydiehole?
Axis lock bros are chill tho.
I plan on getting a mora bushcraft black with the survival sheath and was wondering something, I noticed it didn't have a sharpening choil (along with other moras), has this caused any of you issues while sharpening?
No issues. It will just prevent you from maintaining a straight edge at the base of the blade next to the handle. You can either file in a concave choil if it bothers you, or not worry about it.
PS. why the Bushcraft? My choice would be Kansbol.
I see the kansbol as a more bushcraft/hunting knife than a dedicated bushcrafting knife, and I'm already set on hunting knives. I just need something to process wood while I'm camping.
Plus, I specifically wanted a mora in carbon, but to my knowledge the kansbol is only available in stainless
Roger.
Looks nice, Anon. So does the wooden handle. What did you finish it with?
Ty. The piece is two toned, which is kinda cool. I just sand it to 3k grit and hit it with a soft cotton wheel with this orange rouge that produces a really incredible mirror finish if you're autistic about your hand sanding. It's stabilized, so it polishes up nice and easy.
Usually metals need a perfect 5k finish, but it shows absolutely no scratches from any angle after buffing.
i have one of them, couple years old, only issues ive run into is the rubber peeling off at the apex of the finger guard and if you ever get pine resin on the rubber GOOD FRICKING LUCK getting it off
sounds like a bad design
glad I never got one of the nu-mora
you dont
>glad I never got one of the nu-mora
really sad they changed the color on the classic line handles and the sheath, same perfomance knife, but, just another unecesarry change, why have a "classic" line, if you are gonna change its looks? makes no sense
I set upon you, the ultimate challenge.
Please help me find a cool knife with the following traits:
>good
>cheap (less than 50€)
>discreet
>folding
>thumbstud or flipper (no spring release)
>blade smaller than 10cm
>ideally slim
>easily bought in Europe (ideally amazon.es or amazon.de)
Ontario RAT II
Are Euros allowed the security of locking knives now?
Buck 112 Slim Select
Thoughts on the spyderco paramilitary 2? Im adamant on getting the serrated version if i go for it. The compression lock sold me on it. This shit is legal in CA right
>having a knife is illegal in my state
>WA
why is my state so cucked?
wtf there are states in the US where carrying a knife is illegal?
yes, it's called Washington the gayest most anti-out state on erf.
Yes. Totally true. Stay out of Washington.
ama about facing 35 years in prison for carrying a 3.08" knife in a city where only 3" is legal in washington.
in the same city a friend of mine was murdered and her killer did 12 weeks before getting work release.
the same donut cops didn't even bother investigating when another friend of mine got abducted by Black folk and trafficked when we were 11.
the eastside is a fricking SHIT HOLE israelite nest.
Seattle cops don't care unless you're being busted for some thing else that's more serious, than they will tack on that charge.
Same in Germany and UK. The Knoife rules will only be enforced if you are a brown skinned man between 16 and 35 innacity.
A white skinned man can just declare he uses that machete to cut weeds or that knife for whittling and be good.
Those laws are specifically to fight innacity stabbings.
Do you like the etch? Think it came out pretty cool.
I live along the coast, and my stuff gets wrecked and rusty really fast.
Is there a better alternative under $100 then the dragonfly salt? I'm not the biggest fan of H1 steel but I'll settle if it's my only option.
Whats wrong with H1 steel?
I have the Spyderco Saver Salt, I lost it while SCUBA diving in Washigton and found it on another dive 5 months later after the bottom kelp had died. No rust on the knife.
other SALT knife steels have better edge retention, but H1 is amazingly unrustable, so I'll probably take it.
>Le edge retention
That's Reddit shit. You're going to have to learn to sharpen sooner or later, learn to do it on a sub $100 knife before you frick up something nicer.
Nice steel is nice, but it's not the be all end all that knife YouTubers tell you it is. Blade shape and overall weight are much more important.
Rigging look up stainless rigging knives.
Favorite utility knife, have bigger fancier ones but I love how practical, simple, and durable this little fricker is. Nigh expendable too at 30 bucks.
>basic, plastic mora
>30 dollars
since when ?
Canada
I'm soory for your loss.
I can get a Mora HD for 40 Australian (27 usd). Only knives I use, only knife I'll ever use. Fantastic brand.
511s are 10 bucks and companions are 15 in burger
Are matching knives gay?
all spider company knives are the same, except whether the blades are straight or serrated
so: yes
These aren't Spiders... They are handmade in cpm3v.
I know they arent, but all spiders are the same
like I said
so: yes
I bet your Mora is god tier.
It's an original surgical scalpel model, yes.
Sweet. Maybe one day your ex girlfriend’s boyfriend’s son will inherit them and actually cut some shit with them.
Not at all
yo yo where do i get that?
Down a rabbit hole of Finnish master smiths with convoluted names like jari liukko.
unironically would probably be easier to take the ferry to Finland, bumblefrick around until i find a stranger who knows a guy who knows a guys, ya get me?
Most of them seem to be outside Helsinki but many are out in bumfrick. Finding a shop that sells handmade puukkot would be the better option.
ive been fantasizing about a, like month long, trip to Finland for decades, and would DEFINITELY need to pick up a local made Puukko in person, my Brisa Nessmuk is fantastic
>https://www.tradera.com/item/342912/545744478/kniv-iisakki-jarvenpaa-finland
Big thanks for the link man, appreciate it, but...
>Auction
Nah, unless im buying a Studebaker i aint about that game
You'll probably win it with one bid though and you can ask the seller if he sends to wherever you live. Wil probably go for a lot cheaper than what it costs new.
>https://www.iisakkijarvenpaa.fi/us/tuotteet-ala/puukot/harma-knife.html
I'd be close, shipping would only be to Denmark, but between my Mora's, my Condor's, my Brisa's and my "no names" I have more "scandi grind" "puukko style" knives then I can wear out in my lifetime
I know the feel
The knives are made in Kauhava which is a famous knife making village in Finland. Northmen posted a /comfy/ documentary about knife making in that village a while back if you or someone else is interested.
really reminds me of this precious gem of a video,
just seeing old craft brings a calm to my heart that i dont see anymore
>For this demanding and dangerous work Manson makes only 1.25 dollar an hour. And soon he will be heading down to Connecticut to work in a large mill, where he can make twice that... pushing a broom.
sad really
Glad that's a hultafors and not a homosexual sellout gransfors. Good job mate!
checked, and no.
You guys like my $325 knife?
other than the billboard advert stamps, the profile looks nice
Does anybody know how to sharpen?
I hear the blade's sharpness is the angle it makes, and that materials of different roughness are used to build the planes of different width to approximate a triangular prism.
I just use one of these bad bois
sharpens any working edge well and easy
Unless you got a fancy blade you want to
>hone
just get one of these c**ts
You're on the right track.
The angle of the edge is a give and take between strength and slicing ability. The thinner the edge, the better it will be for slicing, but also the more prone to chipping and breaking. A fifteen degree angle is generally regarded as a good all around balance, but you can go for a smaller number on knives you treat gently, and higher number on knives you abuse.
There is a similar parallel regarding "roughness", sharpening with low grits results in a toothy edge, think microscopic serrations, that are ideal for many outdoor uses. A edge worked up to very high grits is better for kitchen tasks.
If you are sharpening outdoor knives that you don't need to look pretty, I'd recommend the Work Sharp MK2.
Fenk!
Carried this to clear some light brush and in case any local druggies wanted to give me shit. Had to basically mexican carry it because my belt is thick and the clip on the sheath is stupidly strong
Any chance this Chinese knife is decent?
I doubt it, I have this which looks like it was made by the same company, handle feels cheap as frick and kinda crunches when you flex it, blade is a little too thin
If you want to have a good time with Chinese knives stick to SanRenMu and Ganzo.
I already have a ganzo but ye
Schrade sharpfinger the perfect skinning/food prep knife
True. i wish the new ones weren't chinesium, vintage old timers are amazing knives
I know they came out with a new american made sharpfinger for about 90 bucks, has anyone got one of those? if so, how is it?
I ordered a Rat2 in D2.
What am I in for?
A good knife in a decent steel for an amazing price.
Good buy anon.
A good general workhorse. I'm not big into liner locks myself, but the rat is a tried and true design
*gets carjacked at gunpoint by a mexican*
SIR DID YOU KNOW YOUR KNIFE IS 0.08" ABOVE THE LEGAL LIMIT THERE'S AN ORDINANCE FROM 1492 WHEN COLUMBUS SAILED THE OCEAN BLUE
Anyone have experience with any of the Harri Merimaa woodsknives? I'm considering getting the 105 or 120, and I'm debating which one I'd be better off with. The 105 is slightly thicker bladewise (0.13 vs 0.1), but the 120 is slightly longer (about half and inch)
Are they similar enough to where i should just opt for the less expensive of the 2?
Depends on what you want to cut. If it's wood, i think you might as well get the shorter one, assuming it costs a bit less. I think the thinner blade is still thick enough for most stuff.
If it's mainly tomatoes, cheese or bread, maybe the longer one.
I'll probably opt for the shorter one then, as I dunno if a carbon steel blade with a scandi grind would be my first pick for food prep. Thanks for the advice
Indeed, stainless steel for food makes sense. No problem with the grind i can tell.
I'm really tempted by the Enzo Borka, anyone tried it?
Hi friend. I've just bought an Enzo (Brisa) fixed blade and I'm super excited about it. I'd say go for it with the folder!
Anyone on PrepHole from NYS that can recommend me a good EDC? Since switch blades and OTF are illegal because NYS is gay
Any normal pocket knife? Get a RAT2 if you're a poorgay, otherwise, get any ~3" folder.
lads, absolutely clueless when it comes to knives.
I want a general pocket knife for EDC. Nothing flashy, pure utility. I figure I might need it to cut rope, plastic, remove a splinter -- simple sorta modern stuff. I DONT plan on going innawoods with it or doing any real survival stuff, nor do i plan on gutting or anything like that. I want something hardy and reliable that will do all sortsa crap and is easy to carry.
looking for suggestions and general knife advice.
Buck 112 Slim Select
How's the hinge for this? Looks like a lotta plastic. One time I needed a knife to cut dog hair from a vacuum's roller and the plastic on the swing-out-hinge (whatever it's called) cracked. I understand these knives aren't meant to take stress perpendicular to the blade direction, but I'd like the knife to be marginally stronger than my autism.
The hinge is fine for EDC. The scales are glass-reinforced nylon.
purpose knoife
All knives are multi-purpose.
It's perfectly fine for EDC, but if you want that knife with better handle/blade material get the 112 slim pro. S30V blade with micarta scales, less pronounced clip which lends itself better to pure EDC type shit, and generally are nicer than the slim select stuff. It's a fair bit more expensive, but hey, you get what you pay for
Voctorinox Hercules is my choice for innacity.
>Single purpose knoife
kys
ay shit I know I wanted pure utility but Swissies are more than I need. I like the screw driver utility, though. Just dont see myself ever getting worth out of most these items. Shoulda been more specific.
I bought mine in 2005. It's an investment for life i would say. Mine got some patina, but it works as it did the first day.
If all you want is a blade, consider the Opinel No8 or No7 in Inox. Cheap, works fine and you can maybe add your own flair using a soldering iron on the grip. Lots of mods around:
https://twitter.com/search?q=%23opinelmod
Any knife you buy from a decent brand will have proper stainless steel (sometimes called INOX). Don't worry about it.
Lost my Leatherman in 2005. Bought what looked like a good upgrade.
Just don't do crimes and you can carry it in the city. It's a tool.
It's a nice tool, for sure, but the blade doesn't lock.
Opinel No.8 looks great for what I need. See a clip mod for it too with good reviews. Thanks!
No.
be quiet now
I wasn't commenting on it legality wise, more so that it's a pretty bulky choice for a simple EDC.
And I know some prefer a locking blade, but a regular slipjoint SAK preforms great for opening packages and letters and the like and theres less to fiddle around with when closing it. But as for the hercules, hows the lock on it? I was considering getting it for hiking/camping
The lock does what it's supposed to do. First model had a switch lock (a grep slide at the side). Current models use a liner lock. Both are good, but the liner is cheaper to make.
Swiss army knives are only good when you actually use the tools provided. If you only need a blade, the other dozen or so tools are just gonna make it a pain to carry and get in the way.
Also, thats a pretty big SAK for city carry, why did you opt for that instead of a medium sized one?
Basically anything. Get something that is comfortable in your hand and in your pocket that you enjoy the aesthetic of. Try to buy decent steel.KMPR
steel recommendations? And any word on blade type?
Victorinox Fieldmaster
It'll work for all the things you put down while having a bunch of different functions. Even comes with some tweezers and a toothpick if you buy the plastic handled one. Super easy to sharpen up the blade too, they're great knives to give someone with no knowledge of knives IMO. Just be careful with it since it's a slipjoint, I can't tell you how many people have cut the shit out of their fingers with swiss army knives
Ontario RAT-1 in AUS-8.
It'll go innawoods too.
You guys are asking the same questions in the same thread. At least skim the posts before you ask the same question again.
answer: get a RAT
One of the new cold steel razor tek knives
>5 inch 4116 stainless blade, 3mm thick, recurve blade, made in taiwan
>$100 on knifecenter
Vs my peacemaker II
>5 1/2 inch 4116 stainless blade, 3mm thick, scandi grind, made in taiwan
>$30 dollars on knifecenter
What the frick were they thinking?
Cold steel went back to shit. They were doing great with XTP steel in knives then s35vn then they got sold and now they are back to gerber tier.
I Shard'ed
Youre going to be in for a disappointment if you need to use half of those 'tools'
small is nice until you need leverage which is what most of them require
better than your fingernails but not much
Not the OP, I had one and found it to be useful when working custodial. Lots of times the paper towel dispenser would jam, those little pry bar worked amazing for it. Philip's head for battery compartments on the automatic hand sanitizers was nice too.
its just a handy little keychain tool bud
How much is one of those? It might be handy to have something on my keychain instead of throwing a SAK in my pocket alongside my EDC on my belt
Has no blade, the most versatile tool of them all.
I never leave the house without a blade of some sort, I just need something to open bottles and pry with
from USD to DKK about
about 10 USD