It's freakin cold out in the cuckshed and my little heater is no longer cutting it. I have 240V but am limited on space and money. There's about 300 sqft of barely insulated space to heat. Given that, is there any better heater than this?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dyna-Glo-Pro-4-800-Watt-240-Volt-Electric-Garage-Heater-EG4800DGP/304663393
I have already checked craigslist with no luck.
>Given that, is there any better heater than this?
Little propane tank topper?
Should've mentioned I prefer electric. Heating with fire may be dangerous, considering a high amount of sawdust floating around. I was considering attaching a filter to the one in the OP to reduce that risk.
if u have a 300 sq ft 'cuckshed' ur a richgay, figure it out
have you considered partition off the more important areas? 300 sq ft is a lot. and obviously insulate more and do a good job of sealing air leaks prior and during
>It has thin foam insulation behind osb
how thin? it's probably less than R7. More likely R2.
watts are watts, it only put so much energy into the air. there are approximate equations for this kind of stuff given the btus or watts, insulation r-value and outside temperature.
this
It's 12x25. There's not much room to section off with my arrangement, nor is it enough to qualify me as a richgay, though I can't complain about it. The insulation is r3.5, maybe a bit more with the air gap and walls
Looks like most or all heaters are capped at 1500w, so size seems to be the important factor, since a larger unit will have more coils
As suggested earlier, I'll block the ridge vent from the main area but that will still allow air to circulate from the "eaves" in the summer. Regarding the insulation, it's effective enough that the shed will stay cooler well into the day, but since I don't heat or cool it constantly, that works against me during winter.
>inb4 open a door
I like privacy and try to keep the down for others
the heater in the OP pic is a 4800w unit. it will need a 240V supply to operate. a 1500w heater will be pretty ineffective in a shop your size.
i have a 110sqft shed that is reasonably insulated. i use a 1 kw heater to preheat the shop as it's connected to a wifi outlet. when it's cold, it will need an hour or 2 to get the shop into just warm enough to wear a light jacket. my 5kw heater will then get the space to a comfortable temp in 20 min almost regardless of the outside temp.
insulation is worthwhile though and helps in the summer as well.
OP said he had 240V, more importantly is how many amps he has available. The smallest heater I would even bother using is a 2000w unit that would 10A of his total power budget.
>OP lives in a 12'x25' shack in the woods
>anons on PrepHole call him a richgay
mfw
You're an idiot and deserve the problems you refuse to resolve effectively
>I prefer electric
its ogre
Start by insulating it.
How many amps can you handle? Get a small electric baseboard.
Enjoy your carbon monoxide poisoning
It has thin foam insulation behind osb walls and lining the ceiling so it will hold some heat. I sprayed foam into most gaps but there's a ridge vent and rollup door that can't really be sealed.
My welder circuit is 50A. Anywhere for a baseboard heater is occupied so I'm thinking either the one I linked to since it's portable, or a large infrared like
said that I can mount above the rollup and aim along the whole length of the shed.
i have a slightly upscale version of the construction heater. you'll have uneven heat if it's a big shop. even in my small shop, one end will be noticably warmer as the fan isn't that powerful. it will also be fairly noisy as well and will kick up sawdust if near the fan. i had mine originally mounted off the ceiling and it sucked. all the heat would gather around the ceiling and the heater could kick off because the temp up there hot enough but your legs would still be freezing. i ground mounted it and it is much better.
>Enjoy your carbon monoxide poisoning
https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-Carbon-Monoxide-Detector/dp/B000FDLFLK
Jokes on you, UL listed detectors are designed NOT to alarm until the CO concentration reaches life threatening levels.
>UL listed detectors are designed NOT to alarm until the CO concentration reaches life threatening levels.
No, the alarm time is based on the concentration. 400 ppm at 1 atm pressure is fine because the alarm will sound within 4-15 minutes and life threatening time is 3 hr.
The one in my shop kept going off and ended up giving me a headache, so i unplugged it.
thats the carbon monoxide giving you a headache not the alarm
if its barely insulated i'd get n infrared heater instead
you'll only feel the heat when youre in its field of view but it wont have to fight the lack of insulation to heat the space
Go full blown autist like Matthias Wandel did in this video, where the infrared heater tracks him as he moves around.
he looks so young.
>barely insulated cuckshed
Set up a tent inside.
dress for the weather
source:
i spend a lot of time in an unheated garage in Alaska
If you can afford a heat pump, you can generate 3 or 4 kw of heat for each 1 kw of electricity.
But the first thing is insulation. Eps panels, blow insulation, pvc windows, etc
It's got thin foam panels behind osb walls and lining the ceiling. I sprayed foam into all the corners and around the windows, then covered the windows, but there's a ridge vent and rollup door that can't be totally sealed.
My small heater can get it up to the mid 50's depending on outside temp but takes a long time/preheating so I ended up buying the fan heater and will move it around on the ground like
says.
Do your fingers not get numb?
With the ridge vent, you'll have to build a ceiling and properly vent your soffits. Then you can insulate above the ceiling. That will do go a long way towards keeping things warm.
A rollup metal door is the worst thing in the world if you are trying to keep heat inside.
The thermal conductivity of steel is too high. Any heat you generate inside is going to be lost
I would figure out a curtain that you can hang behind the door when he's in there. Just something that can provide a little insulation value will help somewhat.
layer the gloves on your hands and remove outer layers when more dexterity is needed
base layer nitrile gloves
mid layer common work glove
outer layer 3M thinsulate glove
Do what I do and just wait until the weather becomes warmer so that I can work again.
>rollup door that can't be totally sealed
That should be your first priority, you could hang a thick and large blanket that hits the floor sorta like a curtain to isolate the door from the rest of the room.
Heater is here, but the adapter is not. Too bad, I guess but the weather's not bad recently
Yeah, I was looking at that again today as I put some more insulation in to block off the main area from the ridge vent. Now there's about 3" of gap and air can still circulate from the "eaves" and out the top, which I think will help with the summer heat.
I only rarely use the rollup so I'll try to find something to cover it.
I don't live in it; I just spend a lot of time out there.
Kerosene heater
You can cook on it too 🙂
You can just run a kerosene heater in a bedroom with the door closed with out any risk from inhaling toxic gad?
get a little woodstove you basic b***h.
Double drum woodstove, perhaps with waste oil burner.
You would be better off spending your money insulating it. You will make your money back in the cost savings also because of how expensive electric heat is.
Getting a cheap humidifier to run inside will also help to keep you warmer also.
Light the building with 125R40, 175BR38 (if you can find those frickers) or 250R40 heat lamps.
Infrared heater does a good job.
Best and cheapest way, since you have 240v, is redneck dryer furnace. There's a couple good videos on israelitetube how to rig one up. Hit up marketplace/Craigslist for an old electric dryer. Typically find them for $50-$100 all day long. A few modifications and you have yourself a cheap and powerful shop heater.
Mount an electric radiator on one of the walls, then install a ceiling fan. Keep the ceiling fan on low constantly, and set the thermostat on the radiator to keep the shed at whatever temp you want.