I just paid out the ass to have half my house jacked up 4". This is the biggest drywall crack, can I fix it myself or do I need to pay someone else?
I just paid out the ass to have half my house jacked up 4".
I just paid out the ass to have half my house jacked up 4". This is the biggest drywall crack, can I fix it myself or do I need to pay someone else?
Cut out that entire section and resheetrock it. I’d tell you how to just patch that section but it’s too much to type and redoing the entire thing is just as easy.
>redoing the entire thing is just as easy.
Slapping some mud on that wall would be way easier. OP doesn't live in a million dollar home so moron rigging it is good enough.
this
It's such a huge ass section it'd be easier and faster to just tear the damn thing off
White duct tape
>can I fix it myself
Yes. We believe in you.
peal the paint back use the green bucket of mud and just retape it
American houses are such shitcastles
As opposed to what, brick? You know most house lifters/movers will charge extra for brick chimneys because they're so dangerous to move, right?
I think he's referring to the poor foundations.
not him, but reinforced concrete
shit just doesn't care
exploded russian depot? reinforced concrete beams and columns are still standing
foundation shifts 45 degrees? reinforced concrete still going strong
should have used jet fuel
today is the day i learned that lifting up your house is a thing. looks like something straight out of The Sims.
looking at houses in France right now at the lowest price and a lot of them are just lost causes. At least with American houses we can fix them when they go to shit.
Re-do the whole wall with bondo
Not hard to fix. Will it look good? that's another question.
Can it be done yourself? Sure, just think of it like a giant California patch; probably be easiest to just redo the area entirely.
I'm kind of surprised that you paid out the ass but didn't have them include fixing the cracks that always result from lifts in their scope.
If you fill with P 90 hot mud it will set up like concrete. Just be sure to finish below surface, it dies not sand!
This stuff.
Came to post this. But only for pre-filling the cracks before you tape it with all-purpose or quick set mud, because you're not going to be able to sand this shit.
Why do you have this gap now? Was it not level and square before or vice versa? Those crack filler foam rods might work as a back support
Why did you have it lifted? Was it to avoid flooding, to give more access to cockroaches and rats, or do you just like being a little higher than your neighbours? Why not buy a house that is built soundly to begin with?
Usually the reason for lifting is to get water to flow away from the building rather than towards it. Generally you want at least 6" between your frame and the ground, 4" if you're dealing with masonry siding. This helps minimize rot and pest infiltration. What happens a lot of times is you'll see older houses where over the years the ground has been built up around the buildings to the point that the grade is almost flush with the siding. I've also seen new homes built without that gap because the builders think the buyers don't like the look of concrete -- it's on the inspectors to tell them otherwise.
My house has a couple inches in most spots between the foundation and grade, but the lot grading has a relatively flat pitch and the floodplain is only about 500 feet away from me. I'm currently thinking I'd like to get mine lifted about 16" (two courses of 8" CMU) or so which would get me another 10" of pitch away from the building and that much extra height above the floodplain. When I last got a price quote for this to start putting together a budget for it, it was about $40,000. Re-building the house would cost easily four or five times that.
>I just paid someone to f up my house
.
This guy explains use of Durabond on new construction, liable to settle, crack, quite well.