Old jacks used to always have a clamp at the end of them like in pic related, so after soldering the wires you would clamp the cable to keep strain off of the solder joints. In this case there is no such strain relief so if the cable gets pulled on the strain goes directly to the solder joints.
By tying a knot in the wire, leaving some internal slack between the knot and the solder joints and stuffing the knot under the cover. Ffs these threads. I expect a pic of you soldering a cable.
I just use hot glue. A heat gun (I use the temperature-controlled one on my SMD station) can help keep it liquid while screwing on the cover, if that becomes a problem.
It's not always super effective at relieving strain from the cable being pulled straight outward without room to tie a knot in the cable inside the housing, but it's better than nothing.
>tie a knot in the cable inside the housing
You fools, that will degrade the audio quality.
this is normally how I do slack relief with larger cables in larger housing, there just isn't a lot of room to do that with these though. I was thinking maybe some kind of hardcore moldable silicone or something.
I just use hot glue. A heat gun (I use the temperature-controlled one on my SMD station) can help keep it liquid while screwing on the cover, if that becomes a problem.
It's not always super effective at relieving strain from the cable being pulled straight outward without room to tie a knot in the cable inside the housing, but it's better than nothing.
Hot glue. Looks kinda crappy but it does the trick.
Also, remember to also attach the spring from a ball point pen to the jack (wire through the spring, spring attached to jack), so there's less of a chance of sharp bends which could shear the wire.
I don't think it actually does the trick is the problem. It gets pushed around extremely easily, doesn't stick to the cord at all. There's probably a variant of hot glue that does stick really well but not regular hot glue.
The only audio cables ive seen that get knotted are the cloth wrapped ones which tend to be higher quality.
Ideally, from the knot you leave little to no room for the cable to move around once the cap is screwed down. It works fine it's just more of a hassle. Under normal circumstances the cable shouldn't be pushed into the cap anyway during use.
You can always apply a small metal band to the outside to prevent the cable from being pushed inward.
>It gets pushed around extremely easily, doesn't stick to the cord at all
What kind of cord are you using? Because whenever I fix my headphones, I have to be really careful with when and where I apply hot glue, because it's a pain in the ass to remove from the cord (aka it sticks super well to it).
To be fair, it doesn't stick too well to the wire itself, it sticks to the insulation on the wire. So if you plan to have exposed wire coming out of the jack, then yea, it won't stick that good.
Normally I do, I just found out these ones have a bullshit no-clamp design after already having them for 6 months.
>It gets pushed around extremely easily, doesn't stick to the cord at all
What kind of cord are you using? Because whenever I fix my headphones, I have to be really careful with when and where I apply hot glue, because it's a pain in the ass to remove from the cord (aka it sticks super well to it).
To be fair, it doesn't stick too well to the wire itself, it sticks to the insulation on the wire. So if you plan to have exposed wire coming out of the jack, then yea, it won't stick that good.
Just ordinary plastic cable that comes with most headphones.
solder
Old jacks used to always have a clamp at the end of them like in pic related, so after soldering the wires you would clamp the cable to keep strain off of the solder joints. In this case there is no such strain relief so if the cable gets pulled on the strain goes directly to the solder joints.
How would you fix this?
By tying a knot in the wire, leaving some internal slack between the knot and the solder joints and stuffing the knot under the cover. Ffs these threads. I expect a pic of you soldering a cable.
>By tying a knot in the wire
>tie a knot in the cable inside the housing
You fools, that will degrade the audio quality.
No it wont
If they are so worried about this they'd buy better cables to begin with. But it will be fine.
this is normally how I do slack relief with larger cables in larger housing, there just isn't a lot of room to do that with these though. I was thinking maybe some kind of hardcore moldable silicone or something.
I guess you're supposed to get a really tight fitting cable and the housing needs to hold it. Put a little extra wire in there.
Looks like the glans ends screws down so that might grip the cable too
Enjoy your dick headphone cables
I just use hot glue. A heat gun (I use the temperature-controlled one on my SMD station) can help keep it liquid while screwing on the cover, if that becomes a problem.
It's not always super effective at relieving strain from the cable being pulled straight outward without room to tie a knot in the cable inside the housing, but it's better than nothing.
Hot glue. Looks kinda crappy but it does the trick.
Also, remember to also attach the spring from a ball point pen to the jack (wire through the spring, spring attached to jack), so there's less of a chance of sharp bends which could shear the wire.
I don't think it actually does the trick is the problem. It gets pushed around extremely easily, doesn't stick to the cord at all. There's probably a variant of hot glue that does stick really well but not regular hot glue.
The only audio cables ive seen that get knotted are the cloth wrapped ones which tend to be higher quality.
Ideally, from the knot you leave little to no room for the cable to move around once the cap is screwed down. It works fine it's just more of a hassle. Under normal circumstances the cable shouldn't be pushed into the cap anyway during use.
You can always apply a small metal band to the outside to prevent the cable from being pushed inward.
>It gets pushed around extremely easily, doesn't stick to the cord at all
What kind of cord are you using? Because whenever I fix my headphones, I have to be really careful with when and where I apply hot glue, because it's a pain in the ass to remove from the cord (aka it sticks super well to it).
To be fair, it doesn't stick too well to the wire itself, it sticks to the insulation on the wire. So if you plan to have exposed wire coming out of the jack, then yea, it won't stick that good.
buy jacks that aren't shit
Normally I do, I just found out these ones have a bullshit no-clamp design after already having them for 6 months.
Just ordinary plastic cable that comes with most headphones.
I would fix the problem by getting a better jack.
OP doesn't know jack shit
add a couple layers of shrink wrap after soldering
It's meant to have a heatshrink (or rubber) strain relief on the connecting cable