How would you replace this panel yourself? The step by step, 125A replacement and how long should it take to do?
How would you replace this panel yourself? The step by step, 125A replacement and how long should it take to do?
How would you replace this panel yourself? The step by step, 125A replacement and how long should it take to do?
>125A
OUCH!
I'd probably pull the meter but I'm ok with OP cowboying up and doing this live.
Guess what: You don't!
Hire an electrician to get this job done.
This, don't frick with wiring if you don't know what you're doing. If you have to ask us, you don't and we probably don't either.
You could duplex up and get 6 more circuits out of it. Why bother?
>buy new larger panel
>Drill lots of holes in back
>mount on top of old panel
>Pull old wires into new panel
>Splice longer wires as needed
>Install all new breakers
>Done
Should take 30 mins. 20 if you're sober.
>Sit back and enjoy your new bonfire
It took 4 hours! disappointed because the wire wasn't as long as I wanted it for the 60A breaker so it ended up a bit tight.
And before anyone asks I did put in a bonding screw after pic since the feed doesn't have a dedicated ground
Can you describe the path from the meter to the panel? Where is the disconnect physically located in relation to the panel? Why didn’t they run a ground? What type of structure is this?
It looks good, I don’t see any obvious mistakes. Nice autism loops
The meter pack is on the other side of the house and that's its disc. It was probably cheaper to not run the ground. The system still functions without it, baby steps for now lol. Whole place needs new shit tbh. Loose plugs, light switches that don't do serve a use; shit, one of those breakers doesn't even seem to control anything either.
I just did the one upstairs with better autism loops, thank you very much
So the only way to kill this panel is by pulling the meter? Is this a house? When was it built, do you kno
It's got meter and main panel on the outside with 100A feeeing. The outside should be replaced too by the looks of it. Idk when it was built
So there's a 100A disconnect lever you can pull to kill it at or near the meter box? It should have a ground run out to it in that case and then have the neutral and ground bonded there. What type of meter grounding does it have?
Yes the neutral is bonded at the service yall... 100a breaker to a 125a sub
If the neutral is bonded at the service disconnect outside, then you should run a separate ground conductor from there to this subpanel and remove the bond in this panel.
Quality posts, written by gentlemen
Are you sure the neutral isn't bonded elsewhere like by the actual meter/shutoff
What size wire in the SE cable? (You should have used SER, you don't have a ground).
Is there anti-oxidant (Noalox) on your Al terminations?
No ground
the service disconnect is with the meter and that's where neutral-ground bond has to be.
You did a good job separating grounds and neutrals but it is meaningless if there is no separate ground conductor back to the main.
It will work but with the ground missing you have a good possibility for shock hazards. Nothing beyond that panel (nor the panel itself) is properly grounded. You didn't use any AFCI Breakers (it's a house correct?)
It's a good guess and decent workmanship but that won't pass a municipal or state inspection anywhere in the US.
SER cable size for a 100Amp residential sub-panel is 2-2-2-4
You could get proper grounding by a #4AWG copper (#4 cuz then you don't have to put it in conduit) from an insulated from panel (little plastic holders that stand the ground bar off the interior of the panel) from that pamels new ground bar to the main. Install a lug in direct contact with the box of the main. That lug needs 2 holes for wires, 1 for the sub panel ground and 1 for bond. Bond size can be #8 AWG.
>You could get proper grounding by a #4AWG copper
damnit
*You could get proper grounding by*installing a #4AWG copper *wire....
Okay everyone here is aware of the need for a dedicated ground, feel free to trench out the whole frickin ceiling to do it. One step at a time to fix old shit unless all the walls get ripped open, which the dude ain't about to do lol. Check out this other one I did, pretty happy with it outside of the obvious
Again, nice autism loops
You can make the panel as cute as you want, but unless you can figure out how to run a ground, you’re not an electrician. Figure out how to get the wire from the first disconnect to the panel and do the binding properly
*bonding thanks autocorrect
There's a few ways to do it, but homeowner isn't gonna pay for all that labor and material and neither am I lol. Can't turn down the work just because of that, if you can then that's your prerogative. Maybe I'll be going back because there's a bunch of other bullshit wrong with it. Looks like selectricity was there at some point as one of the upstairs receptacles just has a wire coming straight through the floor, 18" up on the outside of the wall and into a receptacle
Where's yer ground, homosexual?
Why didn’t you put red on the right?
does it matter
More importantly why didn't you use any cable glands or clamps or fucjin anything.
I installed p clamps after that pic.
Was going to run that romex in conduit eventually just haven't gotten around to it, or maybe I did I can't fricking remember it's been a while
>he doesn’t know what happens if you don’t put red on the right
Uh oh
Holy shit. here it is again as a complete thought in standard American-english;
SER cable size for a 100Amp residential sub-panel is 2-2-2-4
You could get proper grounding by installing a #4AWG copper wire (insulated or bare) (#4 cuz then you don't have to put it in conduit) from an insulated-from-panel ground bar (it has little plastic holders that stand the ground bar off the metal interior of the panel) from that panels new ground bar to the main. Install a ground lug in direct contact with the box of the main. That lug needs 2 holes for wires, 1 for the sub panel ground and 1 for bond. Bond size can be #8 AWG.
Whew, finally.
>Bond size can be #8 AWG
COPPER
aluminum #6
*I* would, except for what appears to be an Al connection there on the right. Not gonna touch that.
>How would you replace this panel yourself?
I'd be a massive Black person and buy a new panel and cut the back out of it with all the bits, then gut the old box and self tapper in the new back.
Then do the same with the lid, can ov paint and good as new.
Mnnnnff
Look at those sexy aluminum feeders.
I can smell them from here.
Like cheap cologne and sadness.
there is absolutely nothing wrong with aluminum feeders and it dumb that you nards keep repeating the "aluminum bad" meme. If you'd been paying attention, the problematic aluminum wiring was a different alloy (which is now deprecated) being in contact with copper conductors using wiring devices that weren't suitable for this application.
There is nothing wrong with the use of aluminum feeders, and they are code listed for this application
do americans really
you should stream your live attempt to change it so we can have a record of your death when you blow yourself up