>torch your wheel
Don't listen to him, OP
Get a grip on the outside of the nut to take it off then replace it. It'll be a pain in the ass to get started but it'll come off easy after that
I figured out what I am looking at
it's one of those wheel lock Black folk
I would weld a nut on it after hitting it with a hammer
you could drill it out which would take a really long time most likely burn off a few drill bits even if you are trying to keep it cool
there could be a place in the back meant for taking out the stud that would give you access to drilling the head off the stud instead of trying to drill that amount of hard steel from the front
you could hammer a socket over the outside of it but that normally won't hold a lot of torque if it's on real hard then it's hard to get it off
>you could hammer a socket over the outside of it but that normally won't hold a lot of torque if it's on real hard then it's hard to get it off
OP already said this worked
I had one on a Jeep that the tire shop torqued down so bad, I had to drill out the stud. It’s those shitty modern lug nuts with a hard chrome cap and some softer zamac type bullshit underneath, so the chrome cap peeled off real early. Then when I would hammer on an extractor socket and hit it with the impact, the teeth on the extractor would shave off a layer of metal before the nut would budge.
Check your lug nut torque after a tire shop touches them, otherwise you might end up on the side of the road with a bent tire iron and a stripped lug nut and flat tire.
It was my mom’s Jeep. She got a flat tire so I went to go help her out, no tools with me at the time so I grabbed the spare tire wrench from the car, and the fricking wrench bent and twisted off the lug, so it was stripped and fricked after that.
You can find it on Youtube and other places, those mid-00s and early 10s Chrysler cars have notoriously shitty lug nuts.
I now carry a cordless1500ft-lb breakaway rated impact wrench in my car.
That shit underneath is actually steel! Shocking, I know, you wouldn't guess having held one.
It's the cheapest, softest, shittiest Chinese steel you can imagine.
The thin cap is intended to make it look pretty and protect it from corrosion, but it doesn't work.
They consistently corrode underneath the cap, and the trash chink steel underneath which was already soft as frick turns to swiss cheese. The cap ends up ruined by the expanding corrosion underneath it, and starts to peel off.
The real fun is when the cap fully separates but is still retained, so it just spins around the core, so much fun to remove one of those bawds.
Chrysler made this issue famous, but it plagues several brands.
Most of the major car makers have been using these for about a decade now.
The ones used by Ford and Dodge on their American-made vehicles are probably the worst offenders.
Most "good" dealership service departments refuse to reinstall the OEM ones, and will only replace them with aftermarket stainless nuts.
Through the rust-belt, they're jokingly referred to as one-time-use, rust-to-yield, 1-year nuts, 2-year nuts, salt finders, ice indicators, fricking-israelite-scam-nuts, etc.
I replaced the shitty 2-piece lugs on my old jeep with nice chrome plated steel ones long ago. I had to buy extra packs in order to not need the crappy security lugs. I hate those things.
It was my mom’s Jeep. She got a flat tire so I went to go help her out, no tools with me at the time so I grabbed the spare tire wrench from the car, and the fricking wrench bent and twisted off the lug, so it was stripped and fricked after that.
You can find it on Youtube and other places, those mid-00s and early 10s Chrysler cars have notoriously shitty lug nuts.
I now carry a cordless1500ft-lb breakaway rated impact wrench in my car.
The True Nut under the crappy vanity caps are a slightly smaller size. I don't remember what, but if you don't have a socket set you're not getting those shits off with the tire iron. Frick you, Chrysler.
Nah the chrome cap wasnt coming off on the side of the road. That didn’t happen until I hammered a 12pt socket onto the rounded nut. And the interior nut is some odd half size I believe, plus there’s little hope of getting the chrome cap off and keeping the interior soft cheese nut to stay perfectly hexagonal in the process.
op
there is the insert and socket ones.
I once had a bolt with allen head stuck and with the headhole rounded on a terrible location, tried the insert one, didn't do shit, the socket ones? didn't even struggle to get the bolt out.
Just beat a socket on the thing. That's standard in the mechanic world because it works. Dremel cutting depth is shallow and you'd be likely to scuff the wheel trying to cut a straightish (it won't be straight because of the Dremel body conflicting with the wheel) hex while taking way too much time.
It is a solved problem like everything else in the wrenchworld.
drill a hole in the head of the stud and use an extractor. But use it with a wrench! He will twist with not strong blows and everything will work out. The disk will not be damaged.
chance of working is absolute zero lmfao these are dogshit tier tools.
the square type with the single cut tooth down the side has a nonzero chance of biting but good luck taking out a frickiuing wheelnut with it.
clearly it snapped the key because the thread is seized. no fricking way you are getting that off.
https://i.imgur.com/1Kdz1ds.jpg
[...]
+1
worth a shot but don't expect it to just fall out.
If a lug key isn't enough, an extractor is hopeless.
If an extractor could get it out, you could probably drift it out with a punch and hammer. An extractor is borederline useless once you learn to drift fricked bolts out or weld them.
Overtightened bolts need to either be welded, or destroyed completely. Same with rust seized. If it's Overtightened on the head of the bolt, chopping the head off will relieve all tension on the bolt and it should be easy to get out. If it's bottomed out and Overtightened, your only option at that point is again, to weld or destroy it
That tool does nothing without the proper sockets you cretin. You aren't a professional mechanic so please have a nice day to prevent soiling the world with your imaginary fixes. because the larp was obvious.
IDGAF what you do but others should learn the most effective ways not silly shit. A set of lug sockets is a much wiser use of funds and of course beating a (preferably impact) socket over the lug works nicely. I've pulled a shitload of wheels that way at the used car lot where I worked. Previous owners are experts at losing the special socket.
>Removing a seized m14 threaded bolt with a screwdriver
moron moment
No, there’s a reason people post that for stripped out screws, not lug nuts.
First of all, you would still need an extractor socket to stick on the end of that handheld impact. Second of all, those things really don’t put out much rotational torque. They work well for fricked screws because like 80% of the torque goes into seating the bit nice and tight and the other 20% is a rotational shock. If OP’s lock was so tight that the key broke, that 20% rotational force isn’t going to budge it. On a phillips screw however, the 20% is much more than you would get by hand with a screwdriver.
[...]
…and waste $20 on a tool meant for stripped out brake rotor screws.
people who have never used this tool. god bless you all, keeping mechanics in business
No, there’s a reason people post that for stripped out screws, not lug nuts.
First of all, you would still need an extractor socket to stick on the end of that handheld impact. Second of all, those things really don’t put out much rotational torque. They work well for fricked screws because like 80% of the torque goes into seating the bit nice and tight and the other 20% is a rotational shock. If OP’s lock was so tight that the key broke, that 20% rotational force isn’t going to budge it. On a phillips screw however, the 20% is much more than you would get by hand with a screwdriver.
tire shops have air setups, dingus. I'm 99.5% sure OP isn't going to spend the thousands of dollars on that when he could spend 20 on this tool
…and waste $20 on a tool meant for stripped out brake rotor screws.
That tool does nothing without the proper sockets you cretin. You aren't a professional mechanic so please have a nice day to prevent soiling the world with your imaginary fixes. because the larp was obvious.
IDGAF what you do but others should learn the most effective ways not silly shit. A set of lug sockets is a much wiser use of funds and of course beating a (preferably impact) socket over the lug works nicely. I've pulled a shitload of wheels that way at the used car lot where I worked. Previous owners are experts at losing the special socket.
But that anon said everybody else in the thread was wrong!
looks like something that would melt
i would melt it
>torch your wheel
Don't listen to him, OP
Get a grip on the outside of the nut to take it off then replace it. It'll be a pain in the ass to get started but it'll come off easy after that
how do i get a grip on it?
With a good ol' knipex nutfricker of course
tried it and the nut was on too tight. i was able to hammer a socket in
Were you able to steal the wheel then anon? Always good to have a happy ending.
update: i hammered on a socket and it worked
>update: i hammered on a socket and it worked
Good job.
That is the usual method. Congrats!
If your car doesn't have the special adapter socket (have you searched the vehicle?) there are a variety of ways to loosen them.
+1
I figured out what I am looking at
it's one of those wheel lock Black folk
I would weld a nut on it after hitting it with a hammer
you could drill it out which would take a really long time most likely burn off a few drill bits even if you are trying to keep it cool
there could be a place in the back meant for taking out the stud that would give you access to drilling the head off the stud instead of trying to drill that amount of hard steel from the front
you could hammer a socket over the outside of it but that normally won't hold a lot of torque if it's on real hard then it's hard to get it off
>you could hammer a socket over the outside of it but that normally won't hold a lot of torque if it's on real hard then it's hard to get it off
OP already said this worked
The ones on my truck had a cowl on the outside that spun, preventing the hammer and socket trick
I finally got the frickers off with an air hammer and point bit and replaced them
I had one on a Jeep that the tire shop torqued down so bad, I had to drill out the stud. It’s those shitty modern lug nuts with a hard chrome cap and some softer zamac type bullshit underneath, so the chrome cap peeled off real early. Then when I would hammer on an extractor socket and hit it with the impact, the teeth on the extractor would shave off a layer of metal before the nut would budge.
Check your lug nut torque after a tire shop touches them, otherwise you might end up on the side of the road with a bent tire iron and a stripped lug nut and flat tire.
Letting someone else touch your lugnuts...
ISHYGDDT.
It was my mom’s Jeep. She got a flat tire so I went to go help her out, no tools with me at the time so I grabbed the spare tire wrench from the car, and the fricking wrench bent and twisted off the lug, so it was stripped and fricked after that.
You can find it on Youtube and other places, those mid-00s and early 10s Chrysler cars have notoriously shitty lug nuts.
I now carry a cordless1500ft-lb breakaway rated impact wrench in my car.
That shit underneath is actually steel! Shocking, I know, you wouldn't guess having held one.
It's the cheapest, softest, shittiest Chinese steel you can imagine.
The thin cap is intended to make it look pretty and protect it from corrosion, but it doesn't work.
They consistently corrode underneath the cap, and the trash chink steel underneath which was already soft as frick turns to swiss cheese. The cap ends up ruined by the expanding corrosion underneath it, and starts to peel off.
The real fun is when the cap fully separates but is still retained, so it just spins around the core, so much fun to remove one of those bawds.
Chrysler made this issue famous, but it plagues several brands.
Most of the major car makers have been using these for about a decade now.
The ones used by Ford and Dodge on their American-made vehicles are probably the worst offenders.
Most "good" dealership service departments refuse to reinstall the OEM ones, and will only replace them with aftermarket stainless nuts.
Through the rust-belt, they're jokingly referred to as one-time-use, rust-to-yield, 1-year nuts, 2-year nuts, salt finders, ice indicators, fricking-israelite-scam-nuts, etc.
^Perfect description. I hate that design. Someone actually found a way to frick up lug nuts...
I replaced the shitty 2-piece lugs on my old jeep with nice chrome plated steel ones long ago. I had to buy extra packs in order to not need the crappy security lugs. I hate those things.
The True Nut under the crappy vanity caps are a slightly smaller size. I don't remember what, but if you don't have a socket set you're not getting those shits off with the tire iron. Frick you, Chrysler.
Nah the chrome cap wasnt coming off on the side of the road. That didn’t happen until I hammered a 12pt socket onto the rounded nut. And the interior nut is some odd half size I believe, plus there’s little hope of getting the chrome cap off and keeping the interior soft cheese nut to stay perfectly hexagonal in the process.
>chromo molybdenum
not
>chrome molybdenum
lel, the packaging designer could have just written CroMo if he really wanted
Use the 8-bit-guy method
Ah yes, the blue wrench always defeats the final boss.
get these
op
there is the insert and socket ones.
I once had a bolt with allen head stuck and with the headhole rounded on a terrible location, tried the insert one, didn't do shit, the socket ones? didn't even struggle to get the bolt out.
Weld a nut to it
i would use a dremel to shave the outside enough to got a 6 point socket on it.
Just beat a socket on the thing. That's standard in the mechanic world because it works. Dremel cutting depth is shallow and you'd be likely to scuff the wheel trying to cut a straightish (it won't be straight because of the Dremel body conflicting with the wheel) hex while taking way too much time.
It is a solved problem like everything else in the wrenchworld.
drill a hole in the head of the stud and use an extractor. But use it with a wrench! He will twist with not strong blows and everything will work out. The disk will not be damaged.
chance of working is absolute zero lmfao these are dogshit tier tools.
the square type with the single cut tooth down the side has a nonzero chance of biting but good luck taking out a frickiuing wheelnut with it.
clearly it snapped the key because the thread is seized. no fricking way you are getting that off.
worth a shot but don't expect it to just fall out.
If a lug key isn't enough, an extractor is hopeless.
If an extractor could get it out, you could probably drift it out with a punch and hammer. An extractor is borederline useless once you learn to drift fricked bolts out or weld them.
Overtightened bolts need to either be welded, or destroyed completely. Same with rust seized. If it's Overtightened on the head of the bolt, chopping the head off will relieve all tension on the bolt and it should be easy to get out. If it's bottomed out and Overtightened, your only option at that point is again, to weld or destroy it
^Truth
>how do i get this out
>bust a nut
>PrepHole
you came to the right place
all of you are wrong wrong wrong. this is the correct tool for the job
Show me a tire shop which uses that style driver on lugs.
None of them do, because you could loosen your studs by hammering on them like that.
tire shops have air setups, dingus. I'm 99.5% sure OP isn't going to spend the thousands of dollars on that when he could spend 20 on this tool
Also even if the little handheld impact screwdrivers had the torque, that tool won’t help you at all without something like this
That tool does nothing without the proper sockets you cretin. You aren't a professional mechanic so please have a nice day to prevent soiling the world with your imaginary fixes. because the larp was obvious.
IDGAF what you do but others should learn the most effective ways not silly shit. A set of lug sockets is a much wiser use of funds and of course beating a (preferably impact) socket over the lug works nicely. I've pulled a shitload of wheels that way at the used car lot where I worked. Previous owners are experts at losing the special socket.
people who have never used this tool. god bless you all, keeping mechanics in business
I will cashapp you $1000 today if you demonstrate removing an over tightened lugnut with a screwdriver.
I got another $10 on that, especially an overtightened lock like the OP.
I fricking love impact screwdrivers, they're awesome for removing rusty screws from all the rusty Honda door strikers and brake rotors I see.
Trying to take a lugnut with one would be fricking moronic though.
I'd laugh at anyone moronic enough to waste their time with that.
No, there’s a reason people post that for stripped out screws, not lug nuts.
First of all, you would still need an extractor socket to stick on the end of that handheld impact. Second of all, those things really don’t put out much rotational torque. They work well for fricked screws because like 80% of the torque goes into seating the bit nice and tight and the other 20% is a rotational shock. If OP’s lock was so tight that the key broke, that 20% rotational force isn’t going to budge it. On a phillips screw however, the 20% is much more than you would get by hand with a screwdriver.
…and waste $20 on a tool meant for stripped out brake rotor screws.
>Removing a seized m14 threaded bolt with a screwdriver
moron moment
But that anon said everybody else in the thread was wrong!