how do i get this out. it on there extremely tight

how do i get this out

it on there extremely tight

  1. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    looks like something that would melt
    i would melt it

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      >torch your wheel
      Don't listen to him, OP
      Get a grip on the outside of the nut to take it off then replace it. It'll be a pain in the ass to get started but it'll come off easy after that

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        how do i get a grip on it?

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          With a good ol' knipex nutfucker of course

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            tried it and the nut was on too tight. i was able to hammer a socket in

            • 1 month ago
              Anonymous

              Were you able to steal the wheel then anon? Always good to have a happy ending.

  2. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    update: i hammered on a socket and it worked

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      >update: i hammered on a socket and it worked
      Good job.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      That is the usual method. Congrats!

  3. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    If your car doesn't have the special adapter socket (have you searched the vehicle?) there are a variety of ways to loosen them.

  4. 1 month ago
    KvD

    [...]

    +1

  5. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    I figured out what I am looking at
    it's one of those wheel lock morons
    I would weld a nut on it after hitting it with a hammer
    you could drill it out which would take a really long time most likely burn off a few drill bits even if you are trying to keep it cool
    there could be a place in the back meant for taking out the stud that would give you access to drilling the head off the stud instead of trying to drill that amount of hard steel from the front
    you could hammer a socket over the outside of it but that normally won't hold a lot of torque if it's on real hard then it's hard to get it off

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      >you could hammer a socket over the outside of it but that normally won't hold a lot of torque if it's on real hard then it's hard to get it off
      OP already said this worked

      update: i hammered on a socket and it worked

  6. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    The ones on my truck had a cowl on the outside that spun, preventing the hammer and socket trick

    I finally got the fuckers off with an air hammer and point bit and replaced them

    • 1 month ago
      KvD

      I had one on a Jeep that the tire shop torqued down so bad, I had to drill out the stud. It’s those shitty modern lug nuts with a hard chrome cap and some softer zamac type bullshit underneath, so the chrome cap peeled off real early. Then when I would hammer on an extractor socket and hit it with the impact, the teeth on the extractor would shave off a layer of metal before the nut would budge.

      Check your lug nut torque after a tire shop touches them, otherwise you might end up on the side of the road with a bent tire iron and a stripped lug nut and flat tire.

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        Letting someone else touch your lugnuts...

        ISHYGDDT.

        • 1 month ago
          KvD

          It was my mom’s Jeep. She got a flat tire so I went to go help her out, no tools with me at the time so I grabbed the spare tire wrench from the car, and the fucking wrench bent and twisted off the lug, so it was stripped and fucked after that.

          You can find it on Youtube and other places, those mid-00s and early 10s Chrysler cars have notoriously shitty lug nuts.

          I now carry a cordless1500ft-lb breakaway rated impact wrench in my car.

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        That shit underneath is actually steel! Shocking, I know, you wouldn't guess having held one.
        It's the cheapest, softest, shittiest Chinese steel you can imagine.
        The thin cap is intended to make it look pretty and protect it from corrosion, but it doesn't work.
        They consistently corrode underneath the cap, and the trash chink steel underneath which was already soft as fuck turns to swiss cheese. The cap ends up ruined by the expanding corrosion underneath it, and starts to peel off.
        The real fun is when the cap fully separates but is still retained, so it just spins around the core, so much fun to remove one of those sluts.
        Chrysler made this issue famous, but it plagues several brands.

        Most of the major car makers have been using these for about a decade now.
        The ones used by Ford and Dodge on their American-made vehicles are probably the worst offenders.
        Most "good" dealership service departments refuse to reinstall the OEM ones, and will only replace them with aftermarket stainless nuts.
        Through the rust-belt, they're jokingly referred to as one-time-use, rust-to-yield, 1-year nuts, 2-year nuts, salt finders, ice indicators, fucking-garden gnome-scam-nuts, etc.

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          ^Perfect description. I hate that design. Someone actually found a way to fuck up lug nuts...

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        I replaced the shitty 2-piece lugs on my old jeep with nice chrome plated steel ones long ago. I had to buy extra packs in order to not need the crappy security lugs. I hate those things.

        It was my mom’s Jeep. She got a flat tire so I went to go help her out, no tools with me at the time so I grabbed the spare tire wrench from the car, and the fucking wrench bent and twisted off the lug, so it was stripped and fucked after that.

        You can find it on Youtube and other places, those mid-00s and early 10s Chrysler cars have notoriously shitty lug nuts.

        I now carry a cordless1500ft-lb breakaway rated impact wrench in my car.

        The True Nut under the crappy vanity caps are a slightly smaller size. I don't remember what, but if you don't have a socket set you're not getting those shits off with the tire iron. Fuck you, Chrysler.

        • 1 month ago
          KvD

          Nah the chrome cap wasnt coming off on the side of the road. That didn’t happen until I hammered a 12pt socket onto the rounded nut. And the interior nut is some odd half size I believe, plus there’s little hope of getting the chrome cap off and keeping the interior soft cheese nut to stay perfectly hexagonal in the process.

  7. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    [...]

    >chromo molybdenum
    not
    >chrome molybdenum
    lel, the packaging designer could have just written CroMo if he really wanted

  8. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Use the 8-bit-guy method

  9. 1 month ago
    Anonymous
    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      Ah yes, the blue wrench always defeats the final boss.

  10. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    [...]

    get these

    https://i.imgur.com/HzNPhFT.jpg

    how do i get this out

    it on there extremely tight

    op
    there is the insert and socket ones.
    I once had a bolt with allen head stuck and with the headhole rounded on a terrible location, tried the insert one, didn't do shit, the socket ones? didn't even struggle to get the bolt out.

  11. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    Weld a nut to it

  12. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    i would use a dremel to shave the outside enough to got a 6 point socket on it.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      Just beat a socket on the thing. That's standard in the mechanic world because it works. Dremel cutting depth is shallow and you'd be likely to scuff the wheel trying to cut a straightish (it won't be straight because of the Dremel body conflicting with the wheel) hex while taking way too much time.

      It is a solved problem like everything else in the wrenchworld.

  13. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    drill a hole in the head of the stud and use an extractor. But use it with a wrench! He will twist with not strong blows and everything will work out. The disk will not be damaged.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      chance of working is absolute zero lmfao these are dogshit tier tools.
      the square type with the single cut tooth down the side has a nonzero chance of biting but good luck taking out a fuckiuing wheelnut with it.
      clearly it snapped the key because the thread is seized. no fucking way you are getting that off.

      https://i.imgur.com/1Kdz1ds.jpg

      [...]
      +1

      worth a shot but don't expect it to just fall out.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      If a lug key isn't enough, an extractor is hopeless.
      If an extractor could get it out, you could probably drift it out with a punch and hammer. An extractor is borederline useless once you learn to drift fucked bolts out or weld them.
      Overtightened bolts need to either be welded, or destroyed completely. Same with rust seized. If it's Overtightened on the head of the bolt, chopping the head off will relieve all tension on the bolt and it should be easy to get out. If it's bottomed out and Overtightened, your only option at that point is again, to weld or destroy it

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        ^Truth

  14. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    >how do i get this out
    >bust a nut
    >PrepHole
    you came to the right place

  15. 1 month ago
    Anonymous

    all of you are wrong wrong wrong. this is the correct tool for the job

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      Show me a tire shop which uses that style driver on lugs.

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        None of them do, because you could loosen your studs by hammering on them like that.

      • 1 month ago
        Anonymous

        tire shops have air setups, dingus. I'm 99.5% sure OP isn't going to spend the thousands of dollars on that when he could spend 20 on this tool

        • 1 month ago
          KvD

          Also even if the little handheld impact screwdrivers had the torque, that tool won’t help you at all without something like this

          https://i.imgur.com/1Kdz1ds.jpg

          [...]
          +1

        • 1 month ago
          Anonymous

          That tool does nothing without the proper sockets you cretin. You aren't a professional mechanic so please have a nice day to prevent soiling the world with your imaginary fixes. because the larp was obvious.

          IDGAF what you do but others should learn the most effective ways not silly shit. A set of lug sockets is a much wiser use of funds and of course beating a (preferably impact) socket over the lug works nicely. I've pulled a shitload of wheels that way at the used car lot where I worked. Previous owners are experts at losing the special socket.

          • 1 month ago
            Anonymous

            >Removing a seized m14 threaded bolt with a screwdriver
            Retard moment

            No, there’s a reason people post that for stripped out screws, not lug nuts.

            First of all, you would still need an extractor socket to stick on the end of that handheld impact. Second of all, those things really don’t put out much rotational torque. They work well for fucked screws because like 80% of the torque goes into seating the bit nice and tight and the other 20% is a rotational shock. If OP’s lock was so tight that the key broke, that 20% rotational force isn’t going to budge it. On a phillips screw however, the 20% is much more than you would get by hand with a screwdriver.

            [...]
            …and waste $20 on a tool meant for stripped out brake rotor screws.

            people who have never used this tool. god bless you all, keeping mechanics in business

            • 1 month ago
              Anonymous

              I will cashapp you $1000 today if you demonstrate removing an over tightened lugnut with a screwdriver.

              • 1 month ago
                KvD

                I got another $10 on that, especially an overtightened lock like the OP.

              • 1 month ago
                Anonymous

                I fucking love impact screwdrivers, they're awesome for removing rusty screws from all the rusty Honda door strikers and brake rotors I see.

                Trying to take a lugnut with one would be fucking retarded though.
                I'd laugh at anyone retarded enough to waste their time with that.

            • 1 month ago
              Anonymous
    • 1 month ago
      KvD

      No, there’s a reason people post that for stripped out screws, not lug nuts.

      First of all, you would still need an extractor socket to stick on the end of that handheld impact. Second of all, those things really don’t put out much rotational torque. They work well for fucked screws because like 80% of the torque goes into seating the bit nice and tight and the other 20% is a rotational shock. If OP’s lock was so tight that the key broke, that 20% rotational force isn’t going to budge it. On a phillips screw however, the 20% is much more than you would get by hand with a screwdriver.

      tire shops have air setups, dingus. I'm 99.5% sure OP isn't going to spend the thousands of dollars on that when he could spend 20 on this tool

      …and waste $20 on a tool meant for stripped out brake rotor screws.

    • 1 month ago
      Anonymous

      >Removing a seized m14 threaded bolt with a screwdriver
      Retard moment

      • 1 month ago
        KvD

        That tool does nothing without the proper sockets you cretin. You aren't a professional mechanic so please have a nice day to prevent soiling the world with your imaginary fixes. because the larp was obvious.

        IDGAF what you do but others should learn the most effective ways not silly shit. A set of lug sockets is a much wiser use of funds and of course beating a (preferably impact) socket over the lug works nicely. I've pulled a shitload of wheels that way at the used car lot where I worked. Previous owners are experts at losing the special socket.

        But that anon said everybody else in the thread was wrong!

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