1) use a barrel vise & action wrench to remove barrel from the busted receiver.
2) Thread barrel into complete receiver, this will almost certainly require using a lathe to remove a little material so the top of the barrel clocks properly with the receiver.
3) Use a chamber reamer & set of headspace gauges to cut the chamber to the right depth.
Yeah, hang on a sec. I'll find you some.
This video shows basically the same procedure you'd be doing though it's with a Remington action instead. He briefly mentions using a lathe to adjust the length of the barrel shank but doesn't go into much detail:
Gimme a sec and I'll find another which is a bit more detailed.
OK, this video starts talking about it around 11:34. He's talking about it with respect to the flutes on his barrel but in your case it would apply to the sights but it's the same principle.
?t=694
There was another Midwayusa video about it which was better but I'm having trouble finding it, I think YT may have taken it down or someshit. I'll keep looking.
Anyway, you're basically acheiving two things: you're making sure that when the barrel is installed the sights are at the top, and you're also setting the barrel back a little bit which means you can set the headspace correctly. You'd screw in the barrel to the receiver, try and estimate how many more degrees the barrel has to turn for the sights to line up correctly, and then do a little math to figure out how much to face off the threaded end of the barrel. IIRC mosin barrels are M15x1, so one revolution (360 degrees = 1 mm. So, if you decided you need the barrel to move 45 degrees to line up, you'd divide that by 360, and remove that much material from the barrel shoulder. I.e. 45/360 = 0.125mm. Best practice would be to remove a little less and check it often, you can always remove more material but you can't put it back.
Okay so the shoulder is that lip where the thread meets the barrel?
What if it's wienered (for lack of the proper term) opposite to the thread? Remove enough shoulder for it to go 360° + whatever ° to get it on top?
1 year ago
Anonymous
Meant + or -
1 year ago
Anonymous
>Okay so the shoulder is that lip where the thread meets the barrel?
Yeah.
>What if it's wienered (for lack of the proper term) opposite to the thread?
You should never have to remove more than enough for 360 degrees unless you mess up and have to fix it, just go whatever amount is needed to get the sights on top. If the sights happened to point straight down then you'd remove 180 degrees worth, or 0.5mm. If the sights didn't make it that far around you'd be removing more than that, if they made it farther around than 180 you'd be removing less. Note that it's a right-hand thread, it only tightens in one direction. You can't "unscrew" the barrel to make the sights line up, you can only go the other direction. It's not plus or minus some amount, you can only go one direction.
1 year ago
Anonymous
Gotcha just gotta check if my buddy's work will be cool with me using their lathe
1 year ago
Anonymous
Are mosin chambers chrome lined? Won't that eat up most reamers?
those midway videos are all bullshit. the stuff they show is real but they edit out how it actually takes over an hour to make it look like a 5 minute job.
OK, this video starts talking about it around 11:34. He's talking about it with respect to the flutes on his barrel but in your case it would apply to the sights but it's the same principle.
?t=694
There was another Midwayusa video about it which was better but I'm having trouble finding it, I think YT may have taken it down or someshit. I'll keep looking.
Anyway, you're basically acheiving two things: you're making sure that when the barrel is installed the sights are at the top, and you're also setting the barrel back a little bit which means you can set the headspace correctly. You'd screw in the barrel to the receiver, try and estimate how many more degrees the barrel has to turn for the sights to line up correctly, and then do a little math to figure out how much to face off the threaded end of the barrel. IIRC mosin barrels are M15x1, so one revolution (360 degrees = 1 mm. So, if you decided you need the barrel to move 45 degrees to line up, you'd divide that by 360, and remove that much material from the barrel shoulder. I.e. 45/360 = 0.125mm. Best practice would be to remove a little less and check it often, you can always remove more material but you can't put it back.
https://thinlineweapons.com/7.62x54r/7.62x54r.net/MosinID/MosinSpec.html
like the mauser the mosin was designed to be made on bongolid tooling so uses whitworth threads. apparently not for the action threads but they're still 16 tpi which is fairly coarse. depending on how far it needs to be set back I would take at least enough to true up the action face off the receiver and then the rest off the barrel.
Are mosin chambers chrome lined? Won't that eat up most reamers?
I think type 99 arisakas were the only ww2 rifle with chrome bores
On the subject, does anyone have a source for NOS 91/30 barrels? The neckbeard I bought mine from years ago obviously never cleaned it and it's pitted like the dark side of the moon
Just beat that shit in there till it don’t go no mo
Dad?
1) use a barrel vise & action wrench to remove barrel from the busted receiver.
2) Thread barrel into complete receiver, this will almost certainly require using a lathe to remove a little material so the top of the barrel clocks properly with the receiver.
3) Use a chamber reamer & set of headspace gauges to cut the chamber to the right depth.
You can rent the reamers & gages.
Ive never used a lathe like that, know any good vids I could watch?
Yeah, hang on a sec. I'll find you some.
This video shows basically the same procedure you'd be doing though it's with a Remington action instead. He briefly mentions using a lathe to adjust the length of the barrel shank but doesn't go into much detail:
Gimme a sec and I'll find another which is a bit more detailed.
Thanks man, I have never done anything like this before.
OK, this video starts talking about it around 11:34. He's talking about it with respect to the flutes on his barrel but in your case it would apply to the sights but it's the same principle.
?t=694
There was another Midwayusa video about it which was better but I'm having trouble finding it, I think YT may have taken it down or someshit. I'll keep looking.
Anyway, you're basically acheiving two things: you're making sure that when the barrel is installed the sights are at the top, and you're also setting the barrel back a little bit which means you can set the headspace correctly. You'd screw in the barrel to the receiver, try and estimate how many more degrees the barrel has to turn for the sights to line up correctly, and then do a little math to figure out how much to face off the threaded end of the barrel. IIRC mosin barrels are M15x1, so one revolution (360 degrees = 1 mm. So, if you decided you need the barrel to move 45 degrees to line up, you'd divide that by 360, and remove that much material from the barrel shoulder. I.e. 45/360 = 0.125mm. Best practice would be to remove a little less and check it often, you can always remove more material but you can't put it back.
Thanks man, I'll give it a watch.
Okay so the shoulder is that lip where the thread meets the barrel?
What if it's wienered (for lack of the proper term) opposite to the thread? Remove enough shoulder for it to go 360° + whatever ° to get it on top?
Meant + or -
>Okay so the shoulder is that lip where the thread meets the barrel?
Yeah.
>What if it's wienered (for lack of the proper term) opposite to the thread?
You should never have to remove more than enough for 360 degrees unless you mess up and have to fix it, just go whatever amount is needed to get the sights on top. If the sights happened to point straight down then you'd remove 180 degrees worth, or 0.5mm. If the sights didn't make it that far around you'd be removing more than that, if they made it farther around than 180 you'd be removing less. Note that it's a right-hand thread, it only tightens in one direction. You can't "unscrew" the barrel to make the sights line up, you can only go the other direction. It's not plus or minus some amount, you can only go one direction.
Gotcha just gotta check if my buddy's work will be cool with me using their lathe
Are mosin chambers chrome lined? Won't that eat up most reamers?
That looks a lot less painful than I thought.
those midway videos are all bullshit. the stuff they show is real but they edit out how it actually takes over an hour to make it look like a 5 minute job.
https://thinlineweapons.com/7.62x54r/7.62x54r.net/MosinID/MosinSpec.html
like the mauser the mosin was designed to be made on bongolid tooling so uses whitworth threads. apparently not for the action threads but they're still 16 tpi which is fairly coarse. depending on how far it needs to be set back I would take at least enough to true up the action face off the receiver and then the rest off the barrel.
I think type 99 arisakas were the only ww2 rifle with chrome bores
On the subject, does anyone have a source for NOS 91/30 barrels? The neckbeard I bought mine from years ago obviously never cleaned it and it's pitted like the dark side of the moon
I got this m91 from ebay like 2 years ago to practice blueing on. The rifling is actually really good so I could not justify ruining it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155353679429?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=nwAf0SykTk6&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=tj4hi7r0TKK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Was a lot cheaper when I bought. Mine was 50 bucks.
This is not worth the effort in the slightest.
More about learning for me. I want to do actual gunsmithing shit, not just snap together ars
That reminds me i have an arisaka i need to rebarrel