Gasket makers. How to use them without causing mayhem? I've seen youtube videos

Gasket makers. How to use them without causing mayhem?
I've seen youtube videos

where the guys said to wait 10-15 minutes for the paste to get tacky then assemble the parts but even then not fully compressed. What gives? I can't find a good explanation on this.
Since its job is to fill up the space wouldn't it make sense to compress the paste as soon as possible in its more liquid form?
Also what about applying it with finger or brush? Doesn't that defeat the purpose? You don't want air bubbles to form and applying it this way i would assume causes them.

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  1. 11 months ago
    Anonymous

    my toyota calls for this stuff on a lot of the parts. on toyota anyway there is a machined groove on one of the mating surfaces. i clean everything perfectly clean, pick out old gasket maker out of the groove. clean with lacquer thinner. then apply a nice consistant bead into the groove. i have all my hardware and tools ready to go. as soon as its applied i assemble that part right away but only snug the part down moderately and not to full torque. ill wait 20-30 minutes then torque the part down in a few passes progressively in the manufacturers recommended order up to final spec. ive never had a part leak this way. parts with paper or fiber gaskets ive heard not to put this on both sides of the gasket and tighten. the theory is that the gasket maker acts like a lubricant and can squeeze the gasket out from between the mating surfaces.

    • 11 months ago
      Anonymous

      okay thanks but i still don't understand the reason behind waiting
      what's the principle?

      • 11 months ago
        Anonymous

        >the reason behind waiting

        if you torque it down immediately you will squeeze much of it out and have a thin gasket. Waiting allows it to get firm enough so that you have a thicker gasket. My guess is that a thicker gasket works better with respect to expansion/contraction caused by temperature extremes, and also with respect to vibration as well as aging of the gasket.

      • 11 months ago
        Anonymous

        Only matters on solvent-carried materials where waiting for them to tack allows some of the carrier to evaporate.
        Read mfrs websites to learn differences between sealants and dressings and their best use case with the undertanding many overlap.

        If a gasket maker does not specify sealant I avoid it with modern composite gaskets.

        ThreeBond/Hondabond/Yamabond are the same. Good form in place sealants for joints you don't want to take apart. So is flange sealant (do not use on motorcycle inspection covers, b***h to pry off, great stuff). Flange sealant is blessed by Lycoming. Toyota FIPG is also excellent.

        For plain paper gaskets 3M yellow or black weatherstrip adhesive/Gasgacinch/3M yellow spray adhesive and similar are rapid solvent cure and work very well. For covers, glue the paper gasket to the cover and wipe oil or vaseline on the inboard side. Gluing it to the cover eases handling and lubing the inboard side eases release. You can also just lube both sides lightly for inspection covers which sometimes permits paper gasket reuse.

        RTVs are mostly shit except when the maker specifies that because their joint surfaces are intended for it (not all surface finishes are the same). They're good for often-removed covers but so is thinner non-hardening Hylomar (RR uses the aviation version on their engines). Hylomar is digestible while excess RTV is famous for clogging oil passages.

        Gasket shellac like Indian Head is really obsolete and intended plain for paper gaskets. Vintage smell is nostalgic but 3M "gorilla snot" in the tube is handier which is why weatherstrip adhesive mostly replaced it.

        Aircraft fuel tank polysulfide sealants are the goo of the gods indifferent to everything. They hold the aviation world together from transparencies to wet wing fuel tanks to antennae and panel faying sealants. Expensive but I keep at least one handy for when nothing else works.

        • 11 months ago
          Anonymous

          continued

          High Tack etc gasket dressings are also for paper gaskets. Like Hylomar their non-hardening is an advantage in high vibration use.

          Spray copper coat (K&W make the best in US) works on solid copper gaskets and I've reused Fel-Pro blue composite gaskets in an emergency with it. I torch anneal copper gaskets before install.

          Loctite makes a nice sealant for threaded pipe joints you don't want loosening which Teflon tape promotes.

          • 11 months ago
            Anonymous

            great info,what type does the one in the picture falls into for example?if i had to guess it would be RTV?
            also i'm not sure what mrfs stands for

            • 11 months ago
              Anonymous

              It's either motherfrickers or manufacturers. Try the first a bunch.

              • 11 months ago
                Anonymous

                okay,that makes sense

            • 11 months ago
              Anonymous

              I meant mfr for manufacturer:
              https://brians.wsu.edu/2016/05/24/mfr-mfg/

              The Mannol in picrel is a common red silicone RTV (room temperature vulcanizing). It is corrosive to electronics. Sour smell when uncured is an instant giveaway that an RTV uses acetic acid.

              https://www.logwell.com/tech/servtips/RTV.html

              RTV is fine for thermostat housing gaskets etc.

              • 11 months ago
                Anonymous

                Yeah figured it out in the meantime. Thanks again.

        • 11 months ago
          Anonymous

          continued

          High Tack etc gasket dressings are also for paper gaskets. Like Hylomar their non-hardening is an advantage in high vibration use.

          Spray copper coat (K&W make the best in US) works on solid copper gaskets and I've reused Fel-Pro blue composite gaskets in an emergency with it. I torch anneal copper gaskets before install.

          Loctite makes a nice sealant for threaded pipe joints you don't want loosening which Teflon tape promotes.

          The grease on gasket trick is a godsend like you said for inspection covers. I've even used grease to hold gaskets in place where I wasn't going to be pulling shit apart. Of course you don't want to grease your headgasket or anything moronic like that, but for most shit it would be fine.

          Have also used copper coat on paper gaskets to glue them to one side for assembly. Spray it and let it dry until tacky, or if you're in a hurry you can spray it and light it on fire then blow it out...

  2. 11 months ago
    Anonymous

    I've started using Loctite flange sealant for a lot of metal to metal stuff where I would normally resort to gasket maker. Usually only on thicker stuff that won't distort though. Pan gaskets other sheet metal parts to stronk cast I'd still go with a gasket maker...

    Anyways the flange sealant I just put a nice thin layer on there and immediately bolt it up.

    Usually did that with gasket maker too. I've never waited for it to start setting up.

    Apparently "The Right Stuff" TM is the cat's ass of gasket makers... I've never had the need for it yet.

    • 11 months ago
      Anonymous

      yamaha also has a line of goops called yamabond. there are different products in the line. some cure completely some stay malleable. they are used on their motorcycle stuff and stand up to oil and gas. ive heard good things about great stuff too. or the toyota seal packing.

      • 11 months ago
        Anonymous

        Yamabond is ThreeBond and famous on every Jap motorcycle for many decades. Toyota FIPG is similar and also has a strong following.

        I've had a morbid sealant fetish since the 1970s which pays off nicely.

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