Is this a good deal? To be used on smaller cars and crossovers but what a little extra *umph* in reserve in case I get something a little bigger in the future.
Is this a good deal? To be used on smaller cars and crossovers but what a little extra *umph* in reserve in case I get something a little bigger in the future.
You're paying a pretty penny for the low profile and quick pump bullshit. You won't need that if you're wrenching on regular cars and crossovers.
You can get a 3 ton jack with stands for less. Do more research and spend some time thinking for once. Electric cars are within reach and they're 4 to 6 tons on avg going up to 10 tons for a full size electric SUV. If you don't want to fork out again this decade that won't cut it.
No, the heaviest electric vehicle you can buy right now is an electric hummer and that only weighs 4.5 tons. Even then a 3 ton jack would work fine for lifting that because you're not lifting the entire car with it. You're lifting one side of it and so you only need to lift half the weight.
Poverty mindset. I get it. Alimony is expensive and harbor fraught is cheap. Why pay more now when future you can pay even more later right??
Electric is heavier than ICE. Every year cars get more features that add more and more weight. Roll the dice with your poverty life hacks and you'll get crushed under there one day.
NTA I dont care one way or the other about the jack.
With that said, I cant imagine that upward spiral continuing.
The only reason cars are getting bigger is to skirt MPG laws.
The reason people buy "midsize suvs" is because thats what the car companies pushed on you. They control the narrative and the market.
There is still a market for small cars, but they dont really exist anymore. They have been increasing in size because by law they can get worse gas mileage, because the car companies said so.
It doesnt cost that much more to take the same unibody and make it taller.
When going to EV, none of those laws apply anymore.
Not only that, larger vehicles become WAY harder to get long ranges with. Being larger costs a LOT more.
Smaller cars = smaller batteries = smaller motors = better range.
And we have hit a point where cars cost so much fricking money, they have to do something or its all going to crash.
In 10 years the car companies will be decrying midsize SUVs and convincing you to be buying a small trendy car.
One because its cheaper for them, and two because you cant afford a $60k shitbox midsize SUV
The weight isnt going to keep going up, I think people are going to be getting into smaller, lighter cars as they ditch the SUVs
Remember the 80s?
It was TRENDY to drive small
You are severely moronic. Cars are big because people like them. Cars were small in the 80s because of energy prices. Cars have been big since the 20s
>Cars were small in the 80s because of energy prices
Even if you're right, have you payed any attention at all to what's going on right now?
Yeah, have you? It's fueling the move towards EVs. Our cars are now efficient enough and no one needs to give up their 20mpg truck.
We had the first real spike in the highway era in the 70s and 80s, when people had no choice but to drive to work, and the average car had like a 5l v8 that made like 100hp.
When gas got expensive they had no better way to make fuel efficient cars than the reduce weight, size, and HP. Thats what the "malaise era" was. Now instead I'd getting smaller we're just adding boost, removing cylinders, and adding hybrid and EV tech
>Cars were small in the 80s because of energy prices
Yes extenuating circumstances bucked the market.
Price of energy and legislation drastically changed the landscape of the car market.
Honda and Toyota took control overnight, trendsetters with far cheaper and more reliable cars which got better gas mileage.
Nobody was embarrassed to drive a small car, it was THE trendy thing to do.
>Cars are big because people like them
People like what they are told to like, they follow trends.
The Camry and the CRV are the same fricking size with about the same storage. Grandma wanted a midsize SUV, because the salesman told her so.
We have been on a slippery slope for years, set in motion by Obama and the CAFE laws.
Cars have gotten larger and larger, not because people demanded larger cars, but because manufacturers were forced to make larger cars to meet fleet MPG averages and to have cars fall into less restrictive safety brackets.
15 years after those laws went into effect, car manufacturers are hitting a wall.
You cant make the cars any larger so we have CVTs, turbos, 3cyl engines, heavy EGR, hybrids, auto start stop, all sorts of tricks that make cars terrible to drive.
The average price of a car in 2022 was $48k
The current market is a bubble.
When the market bucks again, EVs become the norm, average car wont be 6000lb monsters
They will be small, efficient cars with tiny batteries to make things affordable. The monstrous cars are currently, and will continue to be luxury.
Low profile is needed for any new sedan.
I have that very accord (with the 2.0t that I tuned up). I can no longer do my brakes or oil because I don't have a low profile. I had two jacks in the past, a regular, and an old fashion scissor jack, neither can get under.
If you get crushed by a floor jack failing you were doing things very very wrong and should not have been working on a car in the first place.
Why did they only add the weight of half an American to each car?
>low profile
a must have
>quick pump = bullshit
agreed but they all say it. I'd rather have a slow pump but I can't find one.
Nobody really likes finishing in fewer pumps. She certainly didn't. On a related note, can bottle jacks be used in place of floor jacks safely?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pro-Lift-3-Ton-Heavy-Duty-Floor-Jack-Jack-Stands-and-Creeper-Combo-in-Black-G-4630JSCB/313820094?
>can bottle jacks be used in place of floor jacks safely?
No because they can't compensate for the car moving as it rises.
you have worked on 1 single car in your life 1 time if you don't realize that having low profile is mandatory. they shouldn't even make them another way.
>10 ton SUV
Ok moron
>10 tons for a full size electric SUV
you add a family with their luggage and a trailer, and you'll need a commercial drivers license for the next family road trip (you're moronic)
>Electric cars are within reach
I got their 2 ton compact jack for 40$
These are dogshit toys compared to full size jacks.
I paid $67 for my Pitt 3-ton rapid pump like 5-6 years ago. HF went to shit.
Hasn’t worked on many cars…
Low profile is 100% worth buying. The standard won’t fit under a Civic. Modern cars are low for the aero and have moronic jack points, low profile isn’t just for sports cars.
Because you need the tripfriend opinion and I watch prices on this shit…
I wouldn’t buy the Daytona unless you went for the top end professional model. I don’t think there’s much of a benefit over the red Pitt 3-ton low profile for like $50 less. Also the HF jacks go on sale every other week, so you could probably grab the Pitt version for $120-$130 if you wait a few days, or get the better Daytona Pro for <$250.
Otherwise shop around, the Husky Low Profile 3T at Home Depot is on sale til the end of Jan I think, Walmart has a Blackjack 3T low profile all day for like $150, and those jacks probably all come from the same Chinese factory but the Daytona at HF will have the shortest warranty period of the 3 of them.
Also Northern Tool has had this Arcan 3T low profile on sale a lot lately for right around $200, and those Arcans are sweet. That’s what I’m going to buy when I kill my HF jack.
And do a quick google for rebuild kits on the couple jacks you’re trying to decide on. Harbor Freight never sells spare parts, and jacks always start leaking after a few years so it’s nice if you buy a jack that has schematics available online so you can find the $2 seal you need to keep the thing living for another 5-10 years.
nigar I only have old jacks I got from auctions all big size by today's standards and I always use a block of wood with a jack
if needed I lift a higher part of the frame then I get wood blocks under the wheel/suspension piece I want to lift so it stays up high enough for the jack to get in there
always on wood blocks
take off a wheel put it mostly under the car
no faith in concrete H block
>I hate Chrysler PT cruiser
Which part is this even a response to?
What year is the PT-Cruiser? Have you tried to jack up a sedan made after like 2010? The front jack points especially on so many of these cars are awful. And if you get the pinch weld spot, there’s nowhere to put the jack stand because of all the EPA MPGee covers on everything, so you’re really screwed unless you have a real long real low jack that can hit a damn center jack point that is behind the engine and trans.
no jack stands only wood blocks
6x6 and more wood blows the balls off any jackstand
jackstands promote homosexuality even worse when combined with PEX plumbing
Monday is the best day of the week unless you can get some of those new Sunday cabbages
use ginger on the cabbage and try O'Malley's New Century all natural sausage
start the fresh mint whole with stem and leaf and the beef in the olive oil
you'll never see that on a Wednesday!
I feel ya
What? The reason you buy a real jack is so you don’t have to use the death trap scissor jack. The low profile jacks are only $10-$20 more and lift just as high as the reguiar jack.
>$20 more
That's cool, a scissor jack is compact and comes with the car. With an extension, you don't have to go under the car.
Pickup truck scissor jacks are not dangerous if you chock your wheels. I weld adapters to mine like pieces of upward-facing channel and weld sockets to any that don't already have a hex head.
That gets me lightweight portable jacks which are much less hassle than dragging my floor jack. I run them up and down with a 20V impact. Done it for years and love it.
If scissor jacks scare you then any jack should since you're not capturing the progress as you go with cribbing or jack stands (I gave mine away and use old alloy rims and cribbing which combo is stable on earth or sand).
Advanced cribbing:
https://www.firehouse.com/rescue/vehicle-extrication/article/21284825/lashing-a-cribbing-stack
>cribbing
Can anyone redpill me on this? It is an attractive option to me since it can provide a good amount of height, but I want to be safe if I use these. The majority of the articles that I see online are like the one where you shared, where they focus on their application in firefighting and rescue operations where they tend to use 4x4 and 6x6 wood blocks. On the other hand, many of the wheel cribs that I see made online are made using 2x4s. How much weight would a 2x2 or 3x3 configuration made of 2x4's be able to hold?
Black person rig a roller and an extension for the scissor jack that came with the car.
you need a new cabbage
>the Husky Low Profile 3T at Home Depot is on sale til the end of Jan I think
Thank you, anon. I took your advice and snatched one up.
/THREAD
Nice. Don’t forget your stands.
I know Project Farm did a test of a bunch of jack stands and IIRC the Husky stands had pretty good build quality among the stands in that price range. I’m assuming the Husky QC is a little bit better than most cheap stuff, otherwise they would stick the Anvil or HDX name on the thing. Plus Home Depot is real easy with warrantees when you have anything with the Husky name, as opposed to Harbor Freight which gives you 90 days on the jacks, and beyond that your only option is to buy the 2-year HF replacement plan which makes the shit cost more than the name brands which come with a good warranty included in the purchase price.
>unironically went and bought something because bepis of all people regurgitated what he saw in a project farm video
Daytonas are industry standard at this point
The one $300 Daytona is good. OP wasn’t looking to spend the money on that. Everything below that is going to be about the same as the Torin and Blackjack or Husky.
Look at the post that discussed all of that. Project Farm was never mentioned. I gave him a bunch of other choices of similar quality because Harbor Freight isn’t the best deal always, especially if you aren’t going for the Daytona Professional Heavy Duty or have a good coupon on a different model that brings it below the competition and you can deal with the lack of parts and warranty.
Yeah well I'm a very casual DIYer not an industry gay. Saving $140 was critical to my budgetary requirements.
I paid 80 bucks for my harbor great jack
I bought the gay red one from pepboys for $100 and I've jacked up 2 floors with it to do new posts and raise them by a few 16ths. They're great
Lol, I did this with ceiling joists. put a micro on the gable ends, fricking tico’d those frickers to the lamb.
It was a flip house, the was most likely sold to Black folk.
Made sleepers from 1/2” to 3” across 10’ to level out the floor. plywood over it, and installed click lock floors.
Lol, frick them
It's tough to know but if you want to get a jack that can get a cuckover with saggy suspension off the ground it's gonna need a lot of travel. I have a 2 tin low profile HF one and it can't get under my Miata without driving on blocks first, and it can't get my Honda element more than a few inches off the ground
If you make appropriate wooden cribbing you can jack the vehicle, pl place cribbing, lower it onto cribbing, then place jack on adjacent cribbing, raise and add cribbing or my favorite stable suppor, old alloy rims with a wood on top (they don't tip even in sand).
It's worth having cribbing for safety too as it's more stable than stands. First responders have used cribbing for a very long time.
I wrench often, work on machinery etc so I collect pressure treated 4x4, 6x6 and a 2x4 now and then for cribbing. I empty my drained oil into pails then soak the cribbing for a few days, remove and leave outdoors where I store it. That prevents rot for many years.
Cars have gotten so big because the israelites in the government mandated children have to be in child seats so an infant takes up more space than a large adult man.
>Is this a good deal?
thanks the standard price for a jack like that. I have the menards jack and I paid about the same. the jacks look very similar. the menards masterforce jack stands are nicer though,
I have the Arcan version. Only 3 wheels touch on flat ground but it has the best height range for a reasonable price.
>Low profile
Not needed, just drive ontop of some wood or ramps.
>Rapid pump
Gay. We didn't need that shit back in the day.
I bought these shitjacks before, after 2 years they start leaking and don't work anymore. They ain't even worth opening and renewing the O-ring gasket and the oil.
Buy a proper jack once and you'll be fine for a lifetime. Preferably some 3 or 5 ton industrial jack.
>drive on top of some wood or ramps
This is a pain in the ass when the car isn’t running. I have to do that to lift the front of the wife’s car with my non-low jack and it’s an annoying extra step when the low profile jacks are an extra $10-$20 and have the same lift.
>Rapid pump
That’s a pretty much universal feature these days.
And you won’t be fine for a lifetime even with a super fancy jack. O-rings are still going to o-ring. Might get a couple more years, but you’re still going to need to replace them.
That’s why I rec’d OP look for rebuild kits and schematics before he pulled the trigger if he wanted to keep it around for awhile. I just rebuilt a Japan-made Craftsman jack from the 70s and the main seal was still available for it.