I do like Glock but the over travel on the factory trigger causes me to jerk it and throws my groups off by an inch or 2 at around 10 yards.
The hand fitted connectors fix the problem and I get good groups.
However, I'm thinking about spending the money on the Timney trigger.
Has anyone here tried it?
How is the over travel?
I'm talking about trigger weight. They'll both bring it down to around 10 pounds anyway and the reset looks to be fine on both.
The problem I have with stock triggers is specific. The trigger breaks with a certain weight. My finger is then moving back with that much force for a short distance when it bottoms out the trigger on the frame/action resulting in a small bump to the gun. Which throws my groups off a small amount.
>Which throws my groups off a small amount
Perhaps you should learn to pull a trigger properly? Or is that too difficult for you?
>The problem I have with stock triggers is specific. The trigger breaks with a certain weight. My finger is then moving back with that much force for a short distance when it bottoms out the trigger on the frame/action resulting in a small bump to the gun. Which throws my groups off a small amount.
If you put as much effort learning how to shoot as you do jumping through mental hoops, you wouldn’t need to post cope like this about why you must consoom product in order to git gud.
Go back.
>They'll both bring it down to around 10 pounds anyway and the reset looks to be fine on both.
Glock triggers are like 5.5lbs standard. Are you using a NYPD trigger?
>the over travel on the factory trigger causes me to jerk it and throws my groups off by an inch or 2 at around 10 yards.
No it doesn't. You flinch
This. Dumb b***h is trying to buy skill and accuracy when he is the problem.
Hey dipshit. Go watch joe rogans interview with joel turner. Or don't i don't give a shit if you suck and cope forever.
I'm the guy who accused him of flinch and I got to say that's an interesting podcast
You are snapping the trigger like a moron
Buy a gun with a good trigger or learn to deal with it
There is 0 reason to tinker with a guns trigger if the main problem is you are inadequate at using stock trigger. I think I ran 2 pistol classes before I decided to tweak my glock trigger, and the gun had maybe 2500 rounds or so at that point
Why did you modify your trigger?
I didn't like the triggershoe and wanted to feel the break more defined. I didn't change it due to poor grip and trigger jerking.
i have a stock timney trigger and while it does clean up the trigger it is definitely not a 1 stage trigger. you'll need to tune it with diffrent connectors to find the right one. look up videos or something
Gen 5 model 34 + time + krautanon cum lube makes a really nice trigger (for striker fire)
buy more ammo and get used to the glock trigger. you need trigger time, not fancy shit. take a sheriff of baghdad class.
noones condescending, everyone told you learn to shoot. You just don't like that
go be a gay in your reddit hugbox. you need training not toys if you cant shoot a glock accurately. if you cant shoot, youre certainly not capable at installing triggers.
>NB4 I WAS GOING TO PAY SOMEONE ELSE TO DO IT ALL FOR ME!
brother, you're off "an inch or two at 10 yards."
If I shot a 2 inch group at that distance, I would wonder why it opened up. Come back when you're zeroing with 1 round
>dear sir or madame.
he called me sir or madam! thanks kind stranger
>over travel on a gun with literally 0 over travel
Stop being a moron.
1. Over travel won't make you flinch
2. Over travel will only effect trigger speed
3. Glocks have extremely little to no over travel
Why are you a fricking moron?
In any case none of these mouth breathing morons know what they're talking about anyway so hear me on this OP.
The Timney sucks. Yes it's light. Yes it's better than 99.99 % of aftermarket shit for Glock. Still, it sucks. The design is flawed and cause striker drags on some guns. Then it's a direct ticket to light strike city.
Get a minus connector and train more.
Nah dude you just suck. Even if you swapped guns to one youd consider perfect youd still miss
Theres actual problems then theres the shit you are complaining about
>doesn't post groups
>refuses to accept responsibility
op, you should have set a new bench press at the gym on your neck
I post my groups all the time. I'm sure you've seen them before and since I only get to shoot a couple times a month at this point, I'd be re-posting old groups.
ok, well repost old groups.
no way in hell I'll be able to correlate your posts in this thread with a random shitpost in a different thread
Anyway, here's some old ones from my phone but again, it's irrelevamt to the question.
Corrected for the 6 o'clock hold after a few shots.
.380
what do you even want bruv
if those are really your photos (probably fake, but who cares) and those are really your groups at 10 yards, you're asking the wrong question about overtravel and minmaxing what should be the most boring handgun
here are some other questions you should think about
>can a striker fired handgun offer what I want
>can a red dot expand my capability enough that I can stop whining
>do I even care about shooting better than I shoot right now? maybe I should go touch grass
That 10mm has the over travel stop in it. So does this Glock 43x. All I wanted was feedback on how the Timney triggers were and specifically how they compared to an over travel stop. That's all I was asking. I have no experience with Timney/Apex/Zev Glock triggers.
By the way I really liked this gun but I could never get good groups with it. I have no idea way. Every shot felt perfect but then these would be my groups.
Kind of the same with my Hellcat but the recoil on the Hellcat was severe.
ok lol.
you're original post made you sound like an absolute noob. The advice we all gave would have been appropriate if you'd turned out to be as new as you seemed.
it really is a mistake to try buying skill, especially when beginning to learn. I have no advice for an experienced shooter who actually might be able to benefit from a fancy trigger, since I haven't experienced very much variety.
Well, thank you for the post.
Last one I'm posting.
...and for the record, if you look at that Shadow Systems group posted here. That's what I'm talking about. I put half the shots through 1 hole but had an error on the others. So, I'd call that like a 2.5" group even though I put 5 rounds through 1 hole. It's a similar thing with the stock Glock trigger. If I put an over travel stop it, it's closer to 10/10 rounds though the one (albeit enlarged) ragged hole.
Its not the gun its you sucking then using crutches to justify the suck. The real shame is you are almost at what people would consider decent but not quite. If those were standard 25m targets you wouldnt even be in the black for all shots.
Yout post has ansolutely no value and is vompletely irrelevant, much like yourself.
Stay delusional and keep thinking your a good shot. Everything youve done barely bandages the real issue which is use having shit fundamentals shove a bunch of shit on the gun so you can blast away at 10yard. You are so damn close to the target you cant learn anything.
>You are so damn close to the target you cant learn anything.
That's not entirely true but I understand what you mean. I'd say in general it's best to shot at a distance that shows error. I think there's lot of error in those groups. If they were all one hole, I'd move it to 15 yards. For a true beginner I'd say shoot at whatever distance gives you an actual group, hopefully with one most prevalent error, usually that's about a 3" group and if you look here
you'll see 3" groups but you're too busy being smug and proclaiming your superiority.
>Making the gun more forgiving is just going to mask bad habits and bad fundamentals.
I'm OP and I read all of your posts. For all the ranting empty bravado you've spewed into this thread, that quote is the only thing you've said with any merit. You could have just said that and it would have been more impactful. However, what you're failing to realize is that if a small mod can cut a group size in half.
Look man, you have a really inflated sense of yourself. You discredit others and try to speak with authority. You just aren't saying anything that people don't already understand. Guns are probably the one thing in life that you think don't suck at right? You're not that great at that either and you should probably work on your personality. Not for our sake, for your own. You seem like you have a lot of room for improvement. Your life could be better if you evaluated yourself more honestly.
Where did this push for "nothing about triggers matters you're bad for wanting nice things" suddenly come from?
He has a staccato which should be a significantly better trigger than a glock and thats still a meh group. If anything it proves the better trigger didnt help.
You're assuming triggers don't matter because some guy's group with a staccato isn't as tight as you'd expect?
Im sayin op isnt a good shot but hes acting like he is. Hes acting like the mechanical limitations of the gun are whats making him miss when its him. Those groups are guy whose been shooting for a few months and shows potential tier. Somebody who knew how to shoot could cut that group in half with a stock glock. Hell op could if he practiced for a year but hes going to waste time and money trying to find the perfect gun and make excuses for why he cant shoot. The sooner he admits hes not as good as he thinks he is the sooner he can start unfricking himself and work on fundamentals.
How tight do you groups need to be before you're justified in wanting something nicer? Sounds like the groups need to approach the mechanical limits of accuracy before someone can move on from the stock trigger.
You can always want something nicer but its dumb to act like something normal people can easiy accomplish with practice is impossible without that nicer thing. Go ahead attempt to buy your way into skill it wont help to the degree you think it will. Making the gun more forgiving is just going to mask bad habits and bad fundamentals.
I'm not even that Anon, I'm not buying anything. I just see a general trend towards telling everyone they're wrong for even talking about triggers unless they shoot like Ernest Langdon. Of course he'll get better with more practice. If he practiced with a nicer trigger he'd get better with that trigger, too.
Thanks man but honestly, I'm already on the down slope. I barely shoot anymore and those groups are months apart. I'm also getting older. The eyes aren't as good. I'm not ashamed of looking for a "crutch" in a gun. At this point it's about practicing fundamentals, not learning them and I usually know what the error was and where it hit before I even look at the target, which is why that anon and so many others in the thread are just annoying.
I don't have the connector in this 42 or 17, these are the ones I'm thinking about.
>why that anon and so many others in the thread are just annoying.
If you wanted to ignore all advice why did you post here on PrepHole? Why are you spamming pictures of your guns? Nobody cares. Its like your trying to show off but dont get that you picked the wrong website.
These posts are cancer.
Post your groups if you have any.
You probably don't.
>Nooo you can't just use a nicer trigger to improve your groups you have to dedicate yourself to the art of the blade and take more classes train more, Jerry Miculek could shoot a better group with a Hi-Point stop posting pictures of guns
get gud homosexual. its snake oil. Black folk like you buy drying rocks for their $8K speaker wires.
post groups or shut the frick up moron. holy shit you autistic homosexual shut the frick up.
>posts this much text for what i assume is copium
Kek, suck less homosexual.
>Doesn't reads; responds anyway
Hello barely functioning subhuman.
stop trying to fix the glock trigger, its a losing game. get an M&P + an apex trigger if you really want a good striker.
Man look, to each their own but for me, an otherwise stock trigger with the fitted connector is everything I want from a trigger, consistent, smooth with an affirmative reset. I swear to god, it's very difficult for me to keep the dot from jumping if I don't put that over travel stop in there.
POST GROUPS LOW AND LEFT. WE ALREADY KNOW YOURE A moron. GET TRAINING AND THERAPY TO STOP SUCKING wienerS OP, WE KNOW YOU'LL DIE WITHOUT UNENDING RIVERS OF SEMEN, BUT ITS A SACRIFICE WE ARE ALL WILLING TO TAKE.
return sir troon to reddit posthaste. le zoom zoom!
>the over travel on the factory trigger causes me to jerk
literally not how that works
do you even own a gun
Literally it, go rrad a book or something.
git gud or continue throwing money at the problem until you're running a $5000 Atlas gamer 2011 and shooting 8" patterns at 10 yards anyway
if you think its the guns fault, you either have a broken gun, or its you. Stop posting, start training
Sorry you haven’t had any really helpful responses, OP. I’ve seen your posts before, so I’m pretty sure you’re not an abject novice when it comes to shooting.
The first thing I’d note is that none of my Glocks have appreciable overtravel. Are you sure that what you’re experiencing is indeed overtravel? It could just be a mushy/creepy break. Also, I’m pretty sure you had an M&P awhile ago, and that has a very obvious and pronounced overtravel stop on the frame — those guns have no overtravel, and you didn’t like that gun, either.
The Timney Alpha and the new Glock Performance Trigger effectively turn the half-prewienered Glock striker mechanism into a fully wienered mechanism, like a Walther or a VP9. The downside is that the Timney largely removes the drop safety to do so (not the firing pin block, but the actual drop safety on the sear catch that prevents the cruciform from lowering unless the trigger bar is depressed). The Timney essentially replaces the solid sear catch with a spring loaded one, which could conceivably be defeated by jostling the gun. You’d still have the firing pin block, but it’s a bit unnerving nonetheless. That’s why a lot of people would consider the Timney to be less drop safe than the standard Glock.
I haven’t heard any bad stories about overtravel on the Timney, but Glocks in general don’t have a TON of overtravel, just mush/creep while you’re breaking through all of the safeties.
The Glock Performance Trigger solves the drop safety issue on the Timney, replacing the spring loaded sear catch with U shaped one that can’t slip off under force. It’s a good system.
With that said, the Glock Performance Trigger still isn’t a miracle. It feels like a worse Walther, roughly on par with a VP9 or 320. If you’ve ever felt a new Sig trigger with the kind of rolling break, it’s like that.
Also, you seem to have a few misconceptions about connectors and trigger pull weight in general. The maximal pull force of a trigger (what most people would report, like XYZ gun has a 5.5 lb trigger), is only part of the equation. The other part is distance. To paraphrase a post of mine from a few months ago:
Your finger needs to apply a certain amount of work to lift the striker ledge off the sear. Work is force times distance. A “minus” connector reduces the force needed to actuate the trigger by making the angle of engagement with the trigger bar less steep, increasing the distance of travel. Hence, the work done stays the same, barring fricking with the sear or striker surface (which is not recommended for safety and reliability reasons).
>isn’t reducing the force needed a good thing?
Not necessarily, by broadening the force curve, the trigger will by definition feel mushier, because you’re exerting force for a longer time. That is the trade off, you trade crispness for lightness.
You might have decent results with the Timney Alpha or Glock Performance Trigger, but if you’ve ever tried a VP9 or Sig and been unimpressed, then you’re not going to be seeing anything new. Frankly, no striker gun is ever going to have a 1911-tier trigger. If you want that, get a 1911.
Thank you. I didn't want to bump this thread again but am just to say tgank you for the posts.
There definitely us over travel in the Glock. Installation of the fitted connector prevents the trigger from moving back as far by a noticeable amount. Installation of the fitted connector simultaneously fixes my complaint. So if it's not that, U don't know what else it would be. I don't think the difference between 3.5 and 5.5 pounds is significant.
"I" don 't know what else it could be.
On phone, apologies.
it could be operator error
Dude, yeah I know. There are so many people in this thread just saying, "Be perfect." Well I'm not and there's this 1 little mechanic to the Glock that I'm really having a lot of trouble not letting it cause me to make an error. So I want to fix it and dissuade that error altogether. According to many of the anons in this thread, that's bad, makes a noob, masks my deficiencies and I'm an butthole for improving the mechanics of the pistol. I guess those anons are perfect. Good for them. Honestly, at this point, I don't even know why I'm replying anymore.
Tomorrow morning, I am going to go buy an over travel stop connector and hand fit it. I'll be happy with what that gets me and I truly appreciate the feedback from like the 3 anons that actually talked about the other trigger options. The rest of the posters I am not going to worry about.
Even the people who talked about triggers said thats not how overtravel works. This whole thread has been you ignoring everyone and only listening to what you want to hear. This is some guy who cant drive in a straight line insisting he can drive straight if he gets new rims while everyones else is saying just drive straight frickwad and rims dont work that way. Nuh uh post pictures of cars i dont belive you. If i get these hubcaps installed my car will go straight.
Now it could be overtravel actually means something else in your mind and youve been using the term wrong to describe a real issue but it doesnt seem like that.
Feel free to tell me what is happening then because installation of an over travel stop definitely fixes the issue for me. People have also posted multiple times that Glocks don't have over travel which is just blatantly false.
Here are some facts.
1. I have trouble not jerking the front sight on a Glock.
2. I install an over travel stop, which visibly reduces the over travel.
3. The problem goes away and I no longer jerk the front sight.
So, I'm interpreting that as my struggle is with the over travel. Thinking through that logically, my conclusion is that the trigger is breaking with a certain weight, then there is over travel before it bottoms out on the slide. If I were to squeeze the trigger straight back perfectly each time, that would not happen. I agree. I'm not saying it isn't user error. I am saying, I easily fix the error mechanically. Everyone in this thread assumes I am making this error because I'm a nub that can't shoot. My counter to that is and has been, that while a perfectly fitting gun dissuades error, an improperly fitting promotes error. It isn't so easy to shoot an imperfectly fitting gun perfectly. If it were you would not see stuff like custom competition grips. They wouldn't exist. So, I'm making this error, which is encouraged by a bio-mechanical interaction with pistol and I can fix it with an easy upgrade. I'm going to do that.
If your argument is that I am wrong about the over travel. Please explain. I will read what you write.
By the time you bottom out the trigger the bullet has already left the barrel and it doesnt matter how much you shake the gun. Nothing will change the path of the bullet.
Overtravel stops are for faster resets not for what you are thinking.
You think it worked on the other gun as a placebo. It really is you being shit at pulling the trigger since you are jerking it.
Also, OP, what this guy said is correct. Overtravel affects follow up shots, if you’re shooting slow fire and pulling shots low, it’s not an over travel issue. The bullet will be out of the barrel a long time before any continued pulling of the trigger (overtravel) could pull the shot low.
Maybe and maybe it happens by the timer the striker has ignited the primer. Guns don't ho off instantly and I haven't heatd anyone explain what is happening then.
Ehen I say the front sight jerks I'm talking slow dry fire.
Alright I hate phone posting. I'm sorry, will return when back to pc.
Dude, no. Plesse stop posting.
There is. I can't feel but it's there and even slowly I don't see how you'd overcome it. Even slow you're pressing back with 5 pounds force and then suddenly no resistance. The trigger moves a few mm and hits bottoms out with that weight. If your finger is aligned just right and your squeeze good, there's no jerk. For me, I found the right finger depth and if I use that plus relax my most distal finger joint, I'm good. However, I shoot to many different guns to work on that exact muscle memory when it's completely different on something else. I'm fine with amechanical "crutch" or whatever.
You are complaining about the break not overtravel
I'm not sure the two are entirely differentiated.
They are. This really is you being shit at pulling at trigger and jerking during the break. The overtravel stop did not cause the other glock to shoot better. Installing a lighter than stock connector is what made you shoot better because you cant shoot for shit and need crutches. You falsely attributed that to overtravel.
If that's true there will be no difference between a 3# connector and a 3# connector with a stop. This is something I can easily test. Personally, I do not believe there is a meaningful diffetence between 5# and 3# and that you are wrong. I'll make a thread in a day or 2. Until then, I'm out.
At this point im convinced you dont understand what overtravel means and refuse to learn. You just dont want to listen when people disagree with you. good luck with your placebo. I hope it works out for you.
I don’t doubt that you’re having trouble breaking the trigger cleanly, but I do have my doubts that what you’re experiencing is actually overtravel. Break your trigger slowly. Don’t look at the sights, just feel the trigger break. After it breaks, does the trigger continue to move backwards? That’s overtravel. None of my Glocks really have that. Maybe if you’re REALLY yanking on the trigger, but even so, there isn’t much overtravel there.
Dude you are a legit idiot. You don't want to take the time to actually do what you should be doing, and instead want to try buying skillgap.
How many classes do you run a year? Have you ever had professional training that wasn't some CCW related regulation? I would hedge money you definitely don't compete. Keep crying about it being the gun and not you, that will fix all your problems.
Apex Gen5 trigger with the 3rd Gen Trigger bar milled to work with Gen 5 is the best option. They're nice and crisp.
holy frick, imagine masking being a bad shooter that hard
i shoot 2 inch groups at 25 yards with a stock gen5 glock and not even trying
learn to shoot homosexual
Can you try to lose weight?
Aww he cant resort to post guns as a response so he resorts to namecalling
>come into thread
>dont read subject or any posts
>click on last post
>ur fat
>he is utterly destroyed
Tbh would probably be better off working on your grip or press since there's likely a pretty big issue there if it's throwing you off that much. Factory Glock triggers really aren't bad. If you're pushing them left try more offhand thumb pressure or grip tension in general, also make sure you aren't pinning the trigger to the rear when pulling it(think this may be your problem) a lot of times people who do this are following through too hard with their press in general which can cause problems like that IME. If you're pulling to the right you're probably using too much finger. I'd triple check you're doing all this alright before buying a new trigger(particularly for a Glock). If you do get one then get something that's issued by some major agencies and doesn't require any hand fitting.
>also make sure you aren't pinning the trigger to the rear when pulling it(think this may be your problem) a lot of times people who do this are following through too hard with their press in general which can cause problems like that IME
I would say that's exactly my problem but since the trigger goes from the resistance of whatever the trigger weight is to 0 for whatever the distance of the over travel is, I've no idea how not to do that.
How do you not do that?
For the record, my answer is going to be an over travel stop which has caused a large amount of ass pain in this thread but I would also love to practice a different solution beforehand if you have something specific.
be able to finely control movement in your trigger finger aka get good and practice dumbass
learn how to shoot which is the thing people have been telling you the whole thread
now if you are so weak the only way to actually pull the trigger and get it to break is go moron strength on it get one of these and work out your grip strength after you build mass youll be able to pull without going full moron.
I'm going to refrain from the ad hominem. Have a nice day.
Go to a different hugbox this place is not for you.
Thats what I thought, 0 training.
I call it the Nig24
>gun chambered in 40
>357 sig
yeah thats 100% accurate