> be me, a moronic cheapskate
> buy a $60 electric burr mill grinder
> it wont go small enough for my espresso machine
> imma just tweak the adjustment cog so it can actually be semi-decent
> this chinesium bullshit does not want to be dissasembled
Can someone help me find either a dissasembly manual or find a way to dissasemble the fricker without breaking it?
model number CG9406-UL
Currently can't figure out how to get that tube out of the way(it blocks the outer shell from sliding off)
basic procedure for chinesium bullshit disassembly is locate screwheads, apply screwdriver, don't lose track of what goes where. can you take a picture that's less shit?
I tried, but the phone doesn't fit inside to see the tube. also out of visible screws
then drop it here and let the thread die
nah, i'm moron with espresso machine
are the two discs with the patterned squares on them stickers? screws hiding underneath if so.
nope, plastic. I think those are plastic pins, but i have no idea if that's true and how to get them out if so
>nope, plastic. I think those are plastic pins, but i have no idea if that's true and how to get them out if so
Are you disassembling what looks like the timer to change the distance between the burr surfaces?
Your adderall prescription get bumped up recently?
continue hunting then. unscrew the board, it's easier than disconnecting the wires. pick the whole thing up and check the underside for labels or anti skid feet or other screw concealing stick on crap. lightly pull on whatever piece you're trying to remove and pay attention to where the resistance is stemming from. locating anchor points by feel will point you toward fasteners you can see.
How deep are you trying to go? There’s screws on the circuit board here. Could be more under there.
You can normally start prying carefully on plastic chinese shit and see how it bends to determine if it’s glued, welded, or you’re missing a screw.
upd: the plastic knurling was a top of clip, the tube comes apart in two pieces, but i don't have enough space to split them apart further.
The board srew so far resists unscrewing attempts - not enough space for a crewdriver, gonna try single driver bit and knife next
What kind of boomer can't google a manual
I bet you're that guy that wants to grind cinnamon sticks.
Just go buy the mortar and pestle. i know it's a bit heavy, but it's made of rock and is pretty reliable. it's even cordless!
it's got two shells held together by a bunch of screws, but there's wires and the fricking tube in the way to slide the outer shell off
>it wont go small enough for my espresso machine
How do you clean your burr mill?
When reassembling, add a thin plastic shim.
Don't bother. The tolerances are not going to be tight enough to get you down to espresso level. You'll just end up ruining your burrs
im already commited and no chinese glowBlack person gonna stop me from uncovering the inner workings of chinese grinder
>im already commited and no chinese glowBlack person gonna stop me from uncovering the inner workings of chinese grinder
Well you found the timing circuit.
You won't find much copper if that's what you're looking for. You're nowhere near the grinder part so obviously that's not the reason you're taking it apart.
see
, i see no other way to dissasemble it, the tube's in the way
>i see no other way to dissasemble it, the tube's in the way
>How do you clean your burr mill?
This is the way user manual claims it's fully dissasembled for cleaning
>This is the way user manual claims it's fully dissasembled for cleaning
I wonder if that collar is removable. I wonder if you can remove that like people doing their reviews on Amazon have. Do you think that's possible? Have you tried?
everything above red line is a part of outer shell and comes of with it only
>everything above red line is a part of outer shell and comes of with it only
Show this part
>inside the assembly
the assembly
With that part removed, you can remove the acorn nut holding the conical burr.
You can put a shim under the conical burr.
The thickness of the shim should be minimal.
Don't make it thicker than the wall of an aluminum can.
If the burr is wildly out of spec, you might need two shims.
Leave the fricking timer circuit alone, it doesn't control the distance between the burrs.
Since you are this stupid, you already tried rotating the hopper to get the finer grind setting already, right?
Right?
Right?
> outside
the ring between white dots moves clockwise and lowers the top part, so no shimmy possible. also the ring seems to have some kind of stopper and won't go any lower
>the ring between white dots moves clockwise and lowers the top part, so no shimmy possible. also the ring seems to have some kind of stopper and won't go any lower
Is the ring a conical burr held in place with an acorn nut?
No? Imagine my surprise.
trying to turn the nut turns the conical burr too. is it normal?
disregard, am moronic, wrong direction
friendship ended with screwdriver, socket wrench is best friend now
frick, i only have shitty fricking pliers
I had a similar piece of shit like this once. Because I like to frequently change coffees I would take the plastic hopper off every day to brush out the ridiculous amount of retained grounds. This required me to click through the entire size range, since the mechanism was built into the rotation of the hopper. Within six months the shitty little plastic tabs on the underside which engaged with the dial adjustment broke. Piece of trash. Realized immediately there was no fixing it. I bought an 1zpresso hand grinder and have been using it daily for almost 2 years. The grind and build quality are excellent. These plastic pieces of shit are loose as hell anyway. Grind size all over the place because the burrs wobble around. Just get a good grinder and be done with it. Kinu and 1zpresso make good hand grinders.