No, for thise figures a resin stereo lithogrphy printer would be much better. Those can print crazy detailed stuff with great surface quality but the prints are not as strong as FDM printed parts. And curing and cleaning the resin printed parts with UV lights and gallons of alcohol is pain in the ass.
3D printed guns are ineffective, you just do it if you want something neat that looks cool.
Any DIY tube gun is going to be more effective and resilient.
Yeah, but the barrier to entry is a few hundred bucks. Compare that to the price of a decent welder and drill press, and if you want to really have a decent home shop a small lathe and milling machine; you're approaching halfway to five figures even buying used once you account for consumables, which is way more than most people want to spend until they know whether amateur gun building is "for them" or not. A 3D printer is a great versatile way to get your feet wet.
What is the tool changer system you're using?
I used to have a PM25, I have a PM30 now that's in the process of being put together CNC'd, a cheap power bar would be very nice, haven't seen any though
That pic wasn't mine, just some random one off the internet. I have a cheapo used LMS HiTorque 3990, so a PM30 is quite a bit nicer than that. What made you upgrade from the PM25? I was considering one before I saw the used LMS and decided it would be enough to get my feet wet. I mostly use it to make the occasional odd part for work.
PM25 can't cut steel, it's too light.
PM30 only weighs about 650 lbs so it probably can't do steel very quickly but every time I tried milling steel with the PM25 using high quality stub endmills the entire thing would shake like crazy above .010" depth of cut at half step over with like a 3/8 endmill, it only weighs about 275 lbs.
FGC9 for the true experience. Otherwise, just print an AR lower like the other guy said. If you can find a shitty parts kit for someething with frame/receiver files available, that can be an opinion too. Check everygunpart com
no. defcad only exists as an object in the legal system so the government has something to sue DD over so (hopefully) they can make wins in court. Don't think of or use it as an actual place to get files.
nta but partisan 9 is newer and designed better. No real difference in functionality, both shoot 9mm and take glock mags
[...]
no fedcad sucks and you have to pay for models. Everything is on odysee now. /r/fosscad on plebbit has good info
>Everything is on odysee now. /r/fosscad on plebbit has good info
this
There's also kits to expand the ender 3 if you already own one, but you need a bit more of an advanced level to do it correctly since you need to setup the axis values again. Luckily there's a video of it.
>Buying creality in 2023
Ngmi
This. People forget the reason creality was so attractive was because anything decent was well over a thousand dollars. So something 300$+~$250$ of mods to get about 80% the quality was a steal back then. But now other companies have made very great products in the 6-700 dollar range. It's not worth it spending about 80% the price to still have to mod the shit out of an ender 3 just to still have something noticably worse and less reliable than something that just works out the box, will print better, and faster.
>beginner friendly
like hell it is enders break constantly, you have to tinker with it constantly, the original has to be leveled manually, the bed is shit by default, the price isn't even good relative to other options on the market
Buy an anycubic
[...]
literally $120 for a kobra go
There's nothing wrong with getting an ender 3, obviously a couple years ago it was much more recommended since it was pretty much the only "budget" printer you could get. Nowadays you can get the Neo version that comes with autolevel probe for the bed + glass for the same price it used to be back in the day, the V2 Neo has a PEI bed and pretty much you just put 4 screws to build it.
Now if you have availability to get other printers for the same price, do so, but I'm pretty sure for some people, its either getting a creality or some resin printer, not much of a choice there.
Nope, don't need gun parts. Spring steel wire like music wire to wrap the spring, printed fire control group. The CSGCG came out ages ago, there are several 3D printed AR-compatible triggers now.
FGC-9 is a good start, just to test your understanding of 3d printing and guns. You will likely face a problem or two.
Aside from that AWCY make great designs, especially for non-burger. I made Y22 Hammer and it works great (at least that what I feel from testing it/running through mag twice, string shot and holding it)
Primarily printed .22lr pistol the only part that is troublesome is barrel liner which you can do ecm by yourself (I got my friend who work in workshop make it for me). It's on Odysee.
depends on what you want
i'd say songbird, harlot, apple pie, maverick, g22, as some pure 3D prints
then theres just the standard glocks & AR lowers you can do too
If you want to print lowers, AR15 and Glock lowers are the best. If you want something mostly printed, I'd recommend the Hoffman Orca, or if you really want some autism, the KF5.
>don't pay attention in school >have to relearn basic math and geometry >all the CAD tools are confusing and are hard to use for brainlets
I'm not gonna make it, am I?
CAD isn't that confusing once you realize that you're essentially starting from a block and removing chunks at a time until you get what you need.
Most of the features can be created by extruding or doing extrude-cuts. Just draw what you want as a sketch on a surface and either extrude to get a feature or do extrude-cut to carve a shape in an existing feature.
Yes, that's right. People like to argue over "that's not a printed gun you only printed part X" when that part is, legally, the gun. Generally, people who print guns don't give a shit about the semantics. Some people just can't help but argue and bitch about what counts as a 3D printed gun, and what the goal is with 3D printing. I've had people legitimately get upset when told people print guns for fun, not strictly as a political statement or in an attempt to circumvent the law.
This. People forget the reason creality was so attractive was because anything decent was well over a thousand dollars. So something 300$+~$250$ of mods to get about 80% the quality was a steal back then. But now other companies have made very great products in the 6-700 dollar range. It's not worth it spending about 80% the price to still have to mod the shit out of an ender 3 just to still have something noticably worse and less reliable than something that just works out the box, will print better, and faster.
dude pay attention to the actual budget market
sovol is making the sv06 which is literally just a prusa for 220
Anycubic, kobra go has abl and PEI by default, 120, kobra neo has direct drive, 140
It's not just the Bambus
it's not that beginner friendly because you need to fuck with it for fucking hours and replace parts out of the box. It's incredibly discouraging to get if you want an intro to the hobby when literally 200 dollars more will save you a lot of time.
>beginner friendly
like hell it is enders break constantly, you have to tinker with it constantly, the original has to be leveled manually, the bed is shit by default, the price isn't even good relative to other options on the market
Buy an anycubic
it's not that beginner friendly because you need to fuck with it for fucking hours and replace parts out of the box. It's incredibly discouraging to get if you want an intro to the hobby when literally 200 dollars more will save you a lot of time.
This thing is almost ready! Holds up fine as a solid print, but at my draft settings it pops on the first shot, and that's just not enough margin for me.
I don't need to it be totally perfect despite shit print settings, I just want it to hold up through one full cylinder when printed at these settings. I've done the same "test" with plenty of other projects, makes me feel better about it knowing that even when printed by a fucking retard it's still not likely to blow apart after the first shot.
Also nice to see how it fails, want it to fail in a safe way after all. Don't want the default to be "throws shards into face of shooter." This failed super safe, like a revolver should, blowing out the top-strap. It didn't actually come off completely, it was hanging on by a thread at the rear, but it fell off while I was putting things away. Only thing I don't like about that is the potential for it coming back at the shooter, but it's good that it failed exactly where it was supposed to!
dont you need a metal piece around the firing pin hole where the cartridge pushes back on? maybe try putting in a simple harware washer, or get a disc and drill a pin hole
Need's a strong word, you can get away with out it for quite awhile! Seriously though, it absolutely does if you want it to last. Easy in this setup, I just use an M2.5 washer for now because I have some on hand, not great but good enough. Need to switch to something that fully supports the rear of the bullet, these washers only cover about 2/3.
It's an 8-shot 22LR. I just went on GunBroker and picked out a cheap 22 revolver parts kit that looked like it'd be easy to work with, and I've certainly been happy with it! Some old shitty Saturday night special "Regent," one of these brands where we're not even sure who actually produced them or where it came from. Probably Arminius or Astra originally, but it's not clear as the design was licensed out from day one and being produced in multiple countries at different times.
how did you work up dimensions to it?
With a pair of calipers! Not having access to an original one or any part of a frame made this a challenging project, hell of a lot of fun.
I need to do more blue ones, I really like the look, feels good. These blue ones were all between revisions 25 and 35, still at the derpy stage, but that yellow one is from revision 108 and it's getting so close to perfect!
Thanks anon! I look forward to releasing the project. It's always incredibly gratifying to see others making and enjoying my designs, and this is such an inexpensive build that it should be very accessible!
seems like a waste of time given the limitations of the material and how even stacked steel plates would have held up better.
Be sure to show off your revolver when you're done making it, I'd love to see it!
I just buy old shitty revolvers at the store, I don't need to waste hours of my life shitting around with plastic nonsense that breaks in one range trip. The only thing this is kind of good for is getting used to working in 3D modeling so when you upgrade to a non meme form of fabrication you have a background in it.
1 month ago
Anonymous
No one cares. Why even come into a 3D printing thread?
1 month ago
Anonymous
mainly to laugh at retards and see the occasional, very rare, appropriate use of 3D printing.
1 month ago
Anonymous
3D printing guns causes a ridiculous amount of butthurt from certain people. I'm sure they all have full metal shops with TIG welders, lathes, milling machines, a hammer forge, and an extrusion press or two, because that's how guns SHOULD be made. I have no idea why people who supposedly have six or seven figures in equipment would come to random PrepHole threads to seethe, surely they do own all this stuff if they're going to constantly shit on people for making guns the wrong way. I have a welder, and a crappy milling machine and lathe, and I don't seethe about 3D printing, so it has to be an income/total investment thing, right?
1 month ago
Anonymous
i think it's quite the opposite
it's guys that only buy commercial guns, always wanting to go for the latest hype, shelling out hundred of dollars
then some internet rando comes around and shows a working gun made of fucking plastic worth a few dollars and they loose their mind
then they come here, larping as l33t gun builders giving advice like "just build a luty" or even sten gun, completely oblivious that something like the FGC-9 was created as a direct response to such builds
1 month ago
Anonymous
You should've read it, anon, that's a prototype printed at draft settings, it was supposed to break. I put 100rds through a solid one of the same revision without issue. I have over 2000rds through my SD9 on its printed frame, and another 1000 out of my Ark rifle. I've literally never had a printed gun fail unexpectedly.
I could buy a cheap revolver if I wanted to, but the point isn't wanting a cheap revolver, it's wanting to design one from scrap parts with no guidance. So I did, and it was fun and challening. I'm sorry you don't see the appeal, but countless others do. We all have our hobbies, anon, I sincerely hope you challenge yourself with yours.
I love the Chairman Won Glock frames. The Monopoly is my favorite AR lower and it is very durable. Hoffman Tactical lowers with the forced reset triggers are also very fun and cool.
FCG-9 is a classic if you want a mostly printed design. There are a few upper-lowers for the CMMG 22lr conversion kit which are also cool and cheap.
I don't like the ender 3 personally. I prefer to print in Polymaker PA-CF or PA-GF since it doesn't warp after annealing and is very tough. PLA+ is great and cheap but you really need to anneal it and it tends to shrink unless you do a very slow controlled anneal.
ya muddah
kys
Burn in hell glowie demon.
Isn't this that machine with the anime girl?
It is a Creality Ender 3 Pro 3D printer. A very affordable yet very decent machine, I have the exact same one.
can i use this to make anime girl figures?
No, for thise figures a resin stereo lithogrphy printer would be much better. Those can print crazy detailed stuff with great surface quality but the prints are not as strong as FDM printed parts. And curing and cleaning the resin printed parts with UV lights and gallons of alcohol is pain in the ass.
>Cruelty Life-Ender 3 Pro 3D
thats fucking hardcore
How the fuck else do you expect us to get e-boi skin
You do not need these gizmos sonny.
Back in my daay
We used to grab it , shtring it up by the ankles and skin it with our buck knives.
I forgotz to show you a pichture , my friend bubba took it
>affordable
yes
>decent
god no it's shit I wish I never bought it. not worth getting microplastic cancer over
Same, spent more on upgrades and fixes than I did on the printer. Swapped to a Prusa MK4 and haven’t looked back
What are your preferred filaments/settings? I have a prusa but I can’t get pokymaker or duramic to print for shit
Buy an ad.
I've got a printed Mac11 that has been great so far. gonna do a printed cetme L, whenever I get enough time at home.
3D printed guns are ineffective, you just do it if you want something neat that looks cool.
Any DIY tube gun is going to be more effective and resilient.
Yeah, but the barrier to entry is a few hundred bucks. Compare that to the price of a decent welder and drill press, and if you want to really have a decent home shop a small lathe and milling machine; you're approaching halfway to five figures even buying used once you account for consumables, which is way more than most people want to spend until they know whether amateur gun building is "for them" or not. A 3D printer is a great versatile way to get your feet wet.
What is the tool changer system you're using?
I used to have a PM25, I have a PM30 now that's in the process of being put together CNC'd, a cheap power bar would be very nice, haven't seen any though
That pic wasn't mine, just some random one off the internet. I have a cheapo used LMS HiTorque 3990, so a PM30 is quite a bit nicer than that. What made you upgrade from the PM25? I was considering one before I saw the used LMS and decided it would be enough to get my feet wet. I mostly use it to make the occasional odd part for work.
PM25 can't cut steel, it's too light.
PM30 only weighs about 650 lbs so it probably can't do steel very quickly but every time I tried milling steel with the PM25 using high quality stub endmills the entire thing would shake like crazy above .010" depth of cut at half step over with like a 3/8 endmill, it only weighs about 275 lbs.
glock or AR lower. people seem to like the macs too
for a full gun fgc9
ar15 lower
FGC9 for the true experience. Otherwise, just print an AR lower like the other guy said. If you can find a shitty parts kit for someething with frame/receiver files available, that can be an opinion too. Check everygunpart com
you need to be 18 or older to post here
FGC-9
Plastikov/Hoffman AR-15
Glock frames
Mac-11 frames
Partisan 9 is easier and better than the fgc9, society has progressed past the fgc9
whats the difference?
nta but partisan 9 is newer and designed better. No real difference in functionality, both shoot 9mm and take glock mags
no fedcad sucks and you have to pay for models. Everything is on odysee now. /r/fosscad on plebbit has good info
Square bolts easier to make, better ergonomics too
is defcad the best place for plans still?
no. defcad only exists as an object in the legal system so the government has something to sue DD over so (hopefully) they can make wins in court. Don't think of or use it as an actual place to get files.
>Everything is on odysee now. /r/fosscad on plebbit has good info
this
Did a fucking facebook boomer make this? Good lord.
as long as you're fine with paying and giving them your ssn
Why do you guys keep recommending the FGC-9 when the Mod-9 and WTF-9 exist? Granted we don't know if OP is in the US, but still.
It's "famous," so people just repeat it over and over because they don't actually know anything about 3D printed guns.
Just go full hog and do the belt fed one.
How big of a printer do I need to buy to make that?
There's also kits to expand the ender 3 if you already own one, but you need a bit more of an advanced level to do it correctly since you need to setup the axis values again. Luckily there's a video of it.
There's nothing wrong with getting an ender 3, obviously a couple years ago it was much more recommended since it was pretty much the only "budget" printer you could get. Nowadays you can get the Neo version that comes with autolevel probe for the bed + glass for the same price it used to be back in the day, the V2 Neo has a PEI bed and pretty much you just put 4 screws to build it.
Now if you have availability to get other printers for the same price, do so, but I'm pretty sure for some people, its either getting a creality or some resin printer, not much of a choice there.
cause not everyone lives in the USA
in fact a tiny minority of people on the planet live there with access the most relevant parts of various guns
The Mod-9 and WTF-9 don't use gun parts, just like the FGC-9.
Aside from the FCG.
Nope, don't need gun parts. Spring steel wire like music wire to wrap the spring, printed fire control group. The CSGCG came out ages ago, there are several 3D printed AR-compatible triggers now.
I dunno, works on my machine.
The magic of 3D printing.
they're great for accessories, not for printing guns themselves
FGC-9 is a good start, just to test your understanding of 3d printing and guns. You will likely face a problem or two.
Aside from that AWCY make great designs, especially for non-burger. I made Y22 Hammer and it works great (at least that what I feel from testing it/running through mag twice, string shot and holding it)
>Y22 Hammer
+ info?
Primarily printed .22lr pistol the only part that is troublesome is barrel liner which you can do ecm by yourself (I got my friend who work in workshop make it for me). It's on Odysee.
what about 3D printed or DIY cartridges?
there's really nothing to work with or recommend in between modern factory or handloads and black powder cap and ball
there is one project, but it hasn't been released yet.
https://twitter.com/ModeratorGage/status/1700969150632321407?t=04tf3-_jfxix_N6IWrohyg&s=19
FAMAS
Sure, go ahead
depends on what you want
i'd say songbird, harlot, apple pie, maverick, g22, as some pure 3D prints
then theres just the standard glocks & AR lowers you can do too
If you want to print lowers, AR15 and Glock lowers are the best. If you want something mostly printed, I'd recommend the Hoffman Orca, or if you really want some autism, the KF5.
https://odysee.com/@TheGatalog-PrintableFramesReceivers:9
>don't pay attention in school
>have to relearn basic math and geometry
>all the CAD tools are confusing and are hard to use for brainlets
I'm not gonna make it, am I?
CAD isn't that confusing once you realize that you're essentially starting from a block and removing chunks at a time until you get what you need.
Most of the features can be created by extruding or doing extrude-cuts. Just draw what you want as a sketch on a surface and either extrude to get a feature or do extrude-cut to carve a shape in an existing feature.
why has nobody made a 3d printed LMG?
that's just a printed receiver plus an entire gun parts kit
isn't receiver "the gun" (the only controlled part) and the rest is exchangeable, freely available accessories, as far as the US law is concerned?
Yes, that's right. People like to argue over "that's not a printed gun you only printed part X" when that part is, legally, the gun. Generally, people who print guns don't give a shit about the semantics. Some people just can't help but argue and bitch about what counts as a 3D printed gun, and what the goal is with 3D printing. I've had people legitimately get upset when told people print guns for fun, not strictly as a political statement or in an attempt to circumvent the law.
is that a metal rail on teh inside? specs? first ive seen something like that
It's a Plastikov, there are many versions and variants, including the RPK like that one, and more recently gittin dat Drake nyukka
Wait for the supreme court to rule on kits and such.
when is that? never?
Specifically the frames and receivers rule thing.
>Buying creality in 2023
Ngmi
This. People forget the reason creality was so attractive was because anything decent was well over a thousand dollars. So something 300$+~$250$ of mods to get about 80% the quality was a steal back then. But now other companies have made very great products in the 6-700 dollar range. It's not worth it spending about 80% the price to still have to mod the shit out of an ender 3 just to still have something noticably worse and less reliable than something that just works out the box, will print better, and faster.
dude pay attention to the actual budget market
sovol is making the sv06 which is literally just a prusa for 220
Anycubic, kobra go has abl and PEI by default, 120, kobra neo has direct drive, 140
It's not just the Bambus
>Ngmi
why the price is good and is beginner friendly.
it's not that beginner friendly because you need to fuck with it for fucking hours and replace parts out of the box. It's incredibly discouraging to get if you want an intro to the hobby when literally 200 dollars more will save you a lot of time.
>beginner friendly
like hell it is enders break constantly, you have to tinker with it constantly, the original has to be leveled manually, the bed is shit by default, the price isn't even good relative to other options on the market
Buy an anycubic
literally $120 for a kobra go
Fun day of shooting, got to bring out some of the prototypes.
This thing is almost ready! Holds up fine as a solid print, but at my draft settings it pops on the first shot, and that's just not enough margin for me.
I don't need to it be totally perfect despite shit print settings, I just want it to hold up through one full cylinder when printed at these settings. I've done the same "test" with plenty of other projects, makes me feel better about it knowing that even when printed by a fucking retard it's still not likely to blow apart after the first shot.
Also nice to see how it fails, want it to fail in a safe way after all. Don't want the default to be "throws shards into face of shooter." This failed super safe, like a revolver should, blowing out the top-strap. It didn't actually come off completely, it was hanging on by a thread at the rear, but it fell off while I was putting things away. Only thing I don't like about that is the potential for it coming back at the shooter, but it's good that it failed exactly where it was supposed to!
dont you need a metal piece around the firing pin hole where the cartridge pushes back on? maybe try putting in a simple harware washer, or get a disc and drill a pin hole
Need's a strong word, you can get away with out it for quite awhile! Seriously though, it absolutely does if you want it to last. Easy in this setup, I just use an M2.5 washer for now because I have some on hand, not great but good enough. Need to switch to something that fully supports the rear of the bullet, these washers only cover about 2/3.
nice, what caliber?
It's an 8-shot 22LR. I just went on GunBroker and picked out a cheap 22 revolver parts kit that looked like it'd be easy to work with, and I've certainly been happy with it! Some old shitty Saturday night special "Regent," one of these brands where we're not even sure who actually produced them or where it came from. Probably Arminius or Astra originally, but it's not clear as the design was licensed out from day one and being produced in multiple countries at different times.
With a pair of calipers! Not having access to an original one or any part of a frame made this a challenging project, hell of a lot of fun.
>made this a challenging project, hell of a lot of fun
great experience though. very nicely done.
I need to do more blue ones, I really like the look, feels good. These blue ones were all between revisions 25 and 35, still at the derpy stage, but that yellow one is from revision 108 and it's getting so close to perfect!
Thanks anon! I look forward to releasing the project. It's always incredibly gratifying to see others making and enjoying my designs, and this is such an inexpensive build that it should be very accessible!
Be sure to show off your revolver when you're done making it, I'd love to see it!
I just buy old shitty revolvers at the store, I don't need to waste hours of my life shitting around with plastic nonsense that breaks in one range trip. The only thing this is kind of good for is getting used to working in 3D modeling so when you upgrade to a non meme form of fabrication you have a background in it.
No one cares. Why even come into a 3D printing thread?
mainly to laugh at retards and see the occasional, very rare, appropriate use of 3D printing.
3D printing guns causes a ridiculous amount of butthurt from certain people. I'm sure they all have full metal shops with TIG welders, lathes, milling machines, a hammer forge, and an extrusion press or two, because that's how guns SHOULD be made. I have no idea why people who supposedly have six or seven figures in equipment would come to random PrepHole threads to seethe, surely they do own all this stuff if they're going to constantly shit on people for making guns the wrong way. I have a welder, and a crappy milling machine and lathe, and I don't seethe about 3D printing, so it has to be an income/total investment thing, right?
i think it's quite the opposite
it's guys that only buy commercial guns, always wanting to go for the latest hype, shelling out hundred of dollars
then some internet rando comes around and shows a working gun made of fucking plastic worth a few dollars and they loose their mind
then they come here, larping as l33t gun builders giving advice like "just build a luty" or even sten gun, completely oblivious that something like the FGC-9 was created as a direct response to such builds
You should've read it, anon, that's a prototype printed at draft settings, it was supposed to break. I put 100rds through a solid one of the same revision without issue. I have over 2000rds through my SD9 on its printed frame, and another 1000 out of my Ark rifle. I've literally never had a printed gun fail unexpectedly.
I could buy a cheap revolver if I wanted to, but the point isn't wanting a cheap revolver, it's wanting to design one from scrap parts with no guidance. So I did, and it was fun and challening. I'm sorry you don't see the appeal, but countless others do. We all have our hobbies, anon, I sincerely hope you challenge yourself with yours.
seems like a waste of time given the limitations of the material and how even stacked steel plates would have held up better.
how did you work up dimensions to it?
>No mention of czar61
I love the Chairman Won Glock frames. The Monopoly is my favorite AR lower and it is very durable. Hoffman Tactical lowers with the forced reset triggers are also very fun and cool.
FCG-9 is a classic if you want a mostly printed design. There are a few upper-lowers for the CMMG 22lr conversion kit which are also cool and cheap.
I don't like the ender 3 personally. I prefer to print in Polymaker PA-CF or PA-GF since it doesn't warp after annealing and is very tough. PLA+ is great and cheap but you really need to anneal it and it tends to shrink unless you do a very slow controlled anneal.
Print at 45 degrees.
3d printing as a concept is cool but actual 3d printed guns are wholly overrated and mostly shit.