Personally I don't care for it. I love .22LR because it's relatively quiet and economical. It's very practical for plinking or for hunting small game. But if I need more than that for hunting I'd rather step up to a centerfire caliber. I see it as overpriced for cheap plinking and underpowered for hunting. Maybe I'm missing something and there's some niche where it really shines?
out of a 6" barrel .22 magnum has enough force to make it good for home defense without over penetration. it is cheaper than .25 auto, more available than it, and you can pair your a rifle with it for a decent varmint rifle on the low end of power. I have also found that .22 magnum is as small as you want for rat shot to kill snakes.
as compared to .22LR its slight power advantage means it has more uses with exotic rounds (HP, Rat shot,+P) making them better for use as a garden tool, home defense weapon, and varmint rifle. it has more total force as a HP and has the optimal lethality guarantee with a minimal over-penetration of a back stop like particle board or drywall. .22LR firearms generally tend to use a principle of volume of fire when marketed for home defense or personal defense. in a personal defense role the .25 auto outperforms the .22LR.
basically because the .22LR was made first it kept its market power by being the cheapest plinking gun and with 6-sigma (production philosophy), issues of misfires became less of a problem making the .25 auto almost irrelevant.
> good for home defense without over penetration.
there has never once, in the history of the universe, been a person who wasn't an aggressor injuried by overpenetration in a civilian-involved shooting.
>potential accidental homicide.
Not an actual thing. If someone else dies in a legitimate self defense shooting it's legally the fault of the criminal not the victim.
... not true you first have to prove it wasn't gross negligence. also... how about not killing people accidentally.
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
>... not true you first have to prove it wasn't gross negligence.
Which by definition it's not if it's a legitimate self defense shooting. You already proved that, or you're going to prison for the actual shooting. >also... how about not killing people accidentally.
How about not inventing fuddlore that has never actually happened anon? "Over penetration" is a meme outside of very specialist situations like if you're working security at a chemical plant or something, in which case you'd be provided with specialized LOADS like frangible or rubber, not with some shitty meme caliber.
While I agree that ballistically a .22 Magnum is an acceptable self-defense caliber, what is your logic for selecting it over a centerfire caliber for a self-defense application?
>has the optimal lethality guarantee with a minimal over-penetration of a back stop like particle board or drywall
How so? Even basic .22 LR HPs, not even the fancy or high velocity stuff, easily penetrates plywood, drywall, siding, etc. .22 Mag is much worse when it comes to risk of unwanted damage.
the .25 auto has more powder/power than a .22LR. it roughly is the same in performance as a .22 magnum. Its failure of as a round is the complexity of manufacture, and thus its economic value, and not the performance of the round. a .25 auto HP is better optimized for the over-penetration issue than a .22 magnum, but may be slight less powerful than it for a lethality by depth of cavitation. the FN 5.7mm also falls into this space having more penetration power than a .22 magnum but less cavitation that a .22LR.
.25 Auto has nothing to do with the question. There are dozens of centerfire calibers one might consider for HD, so I'm curious why you picked .22 Mag out of all of them.
But since you brought up .25 Auto, no, it's not more powerful than .22 LR except in super short barrels, and even then the margin is small. Go look at the data at ballistics by the inch.
>.25 Auto, no, it IS more powerful than .22 LR.
that is a myth started as a cop-out to the success of the 22LR, it would follow if the .22 is better than a .25 in the market place than it must mean it is more powerful, but that simple isn't true, the .25 may have less velocity but it has more force of impact.
> centerfire calibers one might consider for HD, so I'm curious why you picked .22 Mag out of all of them.
that is a statement of post-to-teh-facto. I use a 12GA or AR15 for home defense most of the time, because my backstop is either asphalt or a berm. as for inside, I happen to own a .22 magnum (capable) by coincidence. I just tested it for my own amusement. I found the 9mm and 5.56 penetrated too much back stop and could say accidentally kill my mother or sister if they were in the other room and I missed the bad guy.
>ballistics by the inch is about velocity, not force of impact.
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
by the inch is about velocity, not force of impact.
Perhaps you're unaware they have muzzle energy graphs? That's what I suggest you look at.
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
>ballistics by the inch
once again, it is about force of impact. a ballistics jell test is better for that.
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
you're not going to get MORE force at impact than at muzzle
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
you don't get ANY force of impact from muzzle velocity. >ballistics jell test...
I think it's a neat little workhorse that exists in a weird grey area between .22lr and the small centerfires like .223. It's significantly more powerful than .22lr, but not so much so that it steps up into the centerfire-realm. It can do everything a .22lr can do, but a couple things .22lr can't do reliably, especially at ranges out to 250yd, such as coyote hunting and small hog hunting. Lots of people say that with the right projectile and great shot placement .22WMR will put down whitetail; while I'm sure that can be true, I think the vast majority of hunters, myself included, wouldn't attempt it. As far as home defense, hotloaded .22WMR in a pistol is probably an adequate bare-minimum cartridge; it'll stop/deter an attacker, but you won't get reliable expansion out of a pistol. While I do really like .22WMR, I think the best thing that ever happened to it was getting necked down to .17HMR. .17HMR is super fast and inherently accurate for what it is, and can put down coyotes out to some pretty impressive ranges considering how small it is, but that's a different thread.
Overall, for most people is right, if you already have .22lr and plan on hunting some medium-sized game, it probably makes more sense to just step up to centerfire. However if you want one handy rifle that that can exceed everything .22lr does and adequately do some things .223 can do, then .22WMR is a rock-solid choice. And for personal defense, it's mostly effective and has no recoil.
I’d like it a lot if it was 70gr - 90gr (as heavy as it could be made) and subsonic. I’d want to suppress it and not have a super sonic crack. I think it would be more functional out of pistols that way too.
Something similar to that actually exists, but sadly they are obscure today. 9mm Flobert is a mini rimfire shotgun cartridge that was popular in Europe as a "garden gun" for either plinking in your yard or shooting pests. The ammo is usually shotshells but they also made RB and CB caps. Those would shoot either a 9mm roundball or conical slug and were about 1000 fps or so. It's not difficult to find the shotshells but the "slugs" are not common.
there is a .22 CB and BB Cap. it is not easy to find but they are still used today for shooting rats in basement from time to time. they will dent a 2x4 and do minimal damage to personal belongings in storage.
.22 CBs and BBs are not difficult to find. I was talking about the 9mm one specifically since the .22's wouldn't be heavy enough to meet anon's requirements.
makes sense for varminting, but its in a weird spot where its not as cheap as 22lr for plinking and not great for longer ranges or any kind of defensive use. I think it could make for a fun mid-range plinking gun, you can get pretty good fps out of a longer barrel.
I have a lot of misfires for .22 magnum out of my Heritage revolver, anyone else have experience with this? Overall I love the round but it's always a bit worrying to hear click no bang.
I have a Heritage revolver with both a 22lr and 22mag cylinder. I've found that both lr and mag rounds from the same boxes of ammo will fire very reliably out of my other guns of the same calibers, but i do sometimes have misfires, usually light-strikes, in my Heritage with those same boxes of ammo. I'd blame the gun, not the ammo. Heriages are great for the price, but there's a reason they're a lot cheaper than all the other options
I have a lot of misfires for .22 magnum out of my Heritage revolver, anyone else have experience with this? Overall I love the round but it's always a bit worrying to hear click no bang.
that is a different problem.
there is sometimes a clocking issue with the strikers on some heritages. there are also cylinder gap problems, that might be the cause.
Yeah you get what you pay for with a $100 revolver, but goddamn they're a lot of fun.
https://i.imgur.com/4r1CNNF.png
[...]
Well that's interesting. I have never had any issues using .22 short or lr out of it, but that would make sense. Mine is like pic rel but less shiny. Is it possible to fix the cylinder issues or is that how its going to be?
You could certainly have a gunsmith sort it out, but you'd probably pay more than you paid for the gun. Doesn't mean you shouldn't do it if you like the gun though.
the price of the Ruger .22 SAA has gone down so it may be worth buying over a heritage. you could also go retro-cowboy with hind sight and buy a top-break, as they have better handling ergonomics.
whats retro-cowboy with hindsight mean? top breaks are completely consistent with the exact same period of time as SAAs
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
check the history of top break revolvers (they didn't make it for cowboys)
>second hand
It only cost me like $100 so I'm not too worried lol. Guess I'll stick to .22 lr. Cool to see it taken apart like that though.
you can still buy a magnum cylinder.
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
>check the history of top break revolvers (they didn't make it for cowbo
By-and-large that's true, top break was more of a Euro thing, but there were factory top breaks like the S&W Model 3 in the 1870's, and during the 1880's and 1890's gunsmiths in the American West were modifying gate-loading revolvers into top breaks on a custom pistol-by-pistol basis. Not very common though
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
check the history of top break revolvers (they didn't make it for cowboys)
[...]
you can still buy a magnum cylinder.
break action revolvers have existed everywhere since cartridges did, cowboys too. SAA was never good.
Yeah I only have my Heritage because I inhereted it, but if I were to buy a rimfire revolver brand new, I'd buy a Ruger. New Taurus .22 revolvers are also cheap and reliable (fight me on that opinion if you want), but I'd still go Ruger for the aesthetic.
3 weeks ago
Anonymous
I trust Ruger, but I don't tarus for much of anything. I can't complain because I got my revovler (see above) as a gift and I will just shoot it to death. honestly I am way more hyped to eventually get my own black-hawk with spare 9mm cylinder.
there is sometimes a clocking issue with the strikers on some heritages. there are also cylinder gap problems, that might be the cause.
Well that's interesting. I have never had any issues using .22 short or lr out of it, but that would make sense. Mine is like pic rel but less shiny. Is it possible to fix the cylinder issues or is that how its going to be?
no, call the manufacturer and hope you didn't buy it second hand. they should have sent a proofing to show you if there is a problem.
if you want to see what I am talking about, fire it a few times and pull out the cylinder. if the off-gas soot ring is perfectly symmetrical on the face of the cylinder, yours is fine. it is normally a clocking issue with the frame and not the cylinder.
just a further point my revovler is the stock model .22LR/L/S but it is called .22 cal because I have a magnum cylinder. it works for all .22 cal revovlers made by them that are 6 shot.
I have a Heritage revolver with both a 22lr and 22mag cylinder. I've found that both lr and mag rounds from the same boxes of ammo will fire very reliably out of my other guns of the same calibers, but i do sometimes have misfires, usually light-strikes, in my Heritage with those same boxes of ammo. I'd blame the gun, not the ammo. Heriages are great for the price, but there's a reason they're a lot cheaper than all the other options
The revolver I'm referencing is the picrel in
https://i.imgur.com/TCltQkG.jpg
I think it's a neat little workhorse that exists in a weird grey area between .22lr and the small centerfires like .223. It's significantly more powerful than .22lr, but not so much so that it steps up into the centerfire-realm. It can do everything a .22lr can do, but a couple things .22lr can't do reliably, especially at ranges out to 250yd, such as coyote hunting and small hog hunting. Lots of people say that with the right projectile and great shot placement .22WMR will put down whitetail; while I'm sure that can be true, I think the vast majority of hunters, myself included, wouldn't attempt it. As far as home defense, hotloaded .22WMR in a pistol is probably an adequate bare-minimum cartridge; it'll stop/deter an attacker, but you won't get reliable expansion out of a pistol. While I do really like .22WMR, I think the best thing that ever happened to it was getting necked down to .17HMR. .17HMR is super fast and inherently accurate for what it is, and can put down coyotes out to some pretty impressive ranges considering how small it is, but that's a different thread.
Overall, for most people is right, if you already have .22lr and plan on hunting some medium-sized game, it probably makes more sense to just step up to centerfire. However if you want one handy rifle that that can exceed everything .22lr does and adequately do some things .223 can do, then .22WMR is a rock-solid choice. And for personal defense, it's mostly effective and has no recoil.
Personally I don't care for it. I love .22LR because it's relatively quiet and economical. It's very practical for plinking or for hunting small game. But if I need more than that for hunting I'd rather step up to a centerfire caliber. I see it as overpriced for cheap plinking and underpowered for hunting. Maybe I'm missing something and there's some niche where it really shines?
This, but I wouldn’t mind a snubnose chambered in it
out of a 6" barrel .22 magnum has enough force to make it good for home defense without over penetration. it is cheaper than .25 auto, more available than it, and you can pair your a rifle with it for a decent varmint rifle on the low end of power. I have also found that .22 magnum is as small as you want for rat shot to kill snakes.
as compared to .22LR its slight power advantage means it has more uses with exotic rounds (HP, Rat shot,+P) making them better for use as a garden tool, home defense weapon, and varmint rifle. it has more total force as a HP and has the optimal lethality guarantee with a minimal over-penetration of a back stop like particle board or drywall. .22LR firearms generally tend to use a principle of volume of fire when marketed for home defense or personal defense. in a personal defense role the .25 auto outperforms the .22LR.
basically because the .22LR was made first it kept its market power by being the cheapest plinking gun and with 6-sigma (production philosophy), issues of misfires became less of a problem making the .25 auto almost irrelevant.
these are my guns for proof of concept. I also own an FIE titan (.25 auto).
> good for home defense without over penetration.
there has never once, in the history of the universe, been a person who wasn't an aggressor injuried by overpenetration in a civilian-involved shooting.
>over penetration of a back stop
destruction of property, potential accidental homicide.
>potential accidental homicide.
never happened.
if true then hopefully never will.
it makes sense when you realize what small targets unseen people are relatively in most housing situations.
I would think bullet deflection plays more of a role.
>potential accidental homicide.
Not an actual thing. If someone else dies in a legitimate self defense shooting it's legally the fault of the criminal not the victim.
... not true you first have to prove it wasn't gross negligence. also... how about not killing people accidentally.
>... not true you first have to prove it wasn't gross negligence.
Which by definition it's not if it's a legitimate self defense shooting. You already proved that, or you're going to prison for the actual shooting.
>also... how about not killing people accidentally.
How about not inventing fuddlore that has never actually happened anon? "Over penetration" is a meme outside of very specialist situations like if you're working security at a chemical plant or something, in which case you'd be provided with specialized LOADS like frangible or rubber, not with some shitty meme caliber.
While I agree that ballistically a .22 Magnum is an acceptable self-defense caliber, what is your logic for selecting it over a centerfire caliber for a self-defense application?
>has the optimal lethality guarantee with a minimal over-penetration of a back stop like particle board or drywall
How so? Even basic .22 LR HPs, not even the fancy or high velocity stuff, easily penetrates plywood, drywall, siding, etc. .22 Mag is much worse when it comes to risk of unwanted damage.
the .25 auto has more powder/power than a .22LR. it roughly is the same in performance as a .22 magnum. Its failure of as a round is the complexity of manufacture, and thus its economic value, and not the performance of the round. a .25 auto HP is better optimized for the over-penetration issue than a .22 magnum, but may be slight less powerful than it for a lethality by depth of cavitation. the FN 5.7mm also falls into this space having more penetration power than a .22 magnum but less cavitation that a .22LR.
.25 Auto has nothing to do with the question. There are dozens of centerfire calibers one might consider for HD, so I'm curious why you picked .22 Mag out of all of them.
But since you brought up .25 Auto, no, it's not more powerful than .22 LR except in super short barrels, and even then the margin is small. Go look at the data at ballistics by the inch.
>.25 Auto, no, it IS more powerful than .22 LR.
that is a myth started as a cop-out to the success of the 22LR, it would follow if the .22 is better than a .25 in the market place than it must mean it is more powerful, but that simple isn't true, the .25 may have less velocity but it has more force of impact.
> centerfire calibers one might consider for HD, so I'm curious why you picked .22 Mag out of all of them.
that is a statement of post-to-teh-facto. I use a 12GA or AR15 for home defense most of the time, because my backstop is either asphalt or a berm. as for inside, I happen to own a .22 magnum (capable) by coincidence. I just tested it for my own amusement. I found the 9mm and 5.56 penetrated too much back stop and could say accidentally kill my mother or sister if they were in the other room and I missed the bad guy.
>ballistics by the inch is about velocity, not force of impact.
by the inch is about velocity, not force of impact.
Perhaps you're unaware they have muzzle energy graphs? That's what I suggest you look at.
>ballistics by the inch
once again, it is about force of impact. a ballistics jell test is better for that.
you're not going to get MORE force at impact than at muzzle
you don't get ANY force of impact from muzzle velocity.
>ballistics jell test...
>spouts of a bunch of fuddlore meme shit
ffs
>mall ninja coomer not going outside and playing with mud spreading woke memisms
ffs
>please buy my meme round that costs more and performs worse than 9mm
yeah
>aren't you going to buy a 380acp like every other shill?
I think it's a neat little workhorse that exists in a weird grey area between .22lr and the small centerfires like .223. It's significantly more powerful than .22lr, but not so much so that it steps up into the centerfire-realm. It can do everything a .22lr can do, but a couple things .22lr can't do reliably, especially at ranges out to 250yd, such as coyote hunting and small hog hunting. Lots of people say that with the right projectile and great shot placement .22WMR will put down whitetail; while I'm sure that can be true, I think the vast majority of hunters, myself included, wouldn't attempt it. As far as home defense, hotloaded .22WMR in a pistol is probably an adequate bare-minimum cartridge; it'll stop/deter an attacker, but you won't get reliable expansion out of a pistol. While I do really like .22WMR, I think the best thing that ever happened to it was getting necked down to .17HMR. .17HMR is super fast and inherently accurate for what it is, and can put down coyotes out to some pretty impressive ranges considering how small it is, but that's a different thread.
Overall, for most people is right, if you already have .22lr and plan on hunting some medium-sized game, it probably makes more sense to just step up to centerfire. However if you want one handy rifle that that can exceed everything .22lr does and adequately do some things .223 can do, then .22WMR is a rock-solid choice. And for personal defense, it's mostly effective and has no recoil.
I’d like it a lot if it was 70gr - 90gr (as heavy as it could be made) and subsonic. I’d want to suppress it and not have a super sonic crack. I think it would be more functional out of pistols that way too.
Something similar to that actually exists, but sadly they are obscure today. 9mm Flobert is a mini rimfire shotgun cartridge that was popular in Europe as a "garden gun" for either plinking in your yard or shooting pests. The ammo is usually shotshells but they also made RB and CB caps. Those would shoot either a 9mm roundball or conical slug and were about 1000 fps or so. It's not difficult to find the shotshells but the "slugs" are not common.
there is a .22 CB and BB Cap. it is not easy to find but they are still used today for shooting rats in basement from time to time. they will dent a 2x4 and do minimal damage to personal belongings in storage.
.22 CBs and BBs are not difficult to find. I was talking about the 9mm one specifically since the .22's wouldn't be heavy enough to meet anon's requirements.
makes sense for varminting, but its in a weird spot where its not as cheap as 22lr for plinking and not great for longer ranges or any kind of defensive use. I think it could make for a fun mid-range plinking gun, you can get pretty good fps out of a longer barrel.
>hoe about you?
nah, no hoe's about whatsoever
I have a lot of misfires for .22 magnum out of my Heritage revolver, anyone else have experience with this? Overall I love the round but it's always a bit worrying to hear click no bang.
I have a Heritage revolver with both a 22lr and 22mag cylinder. I've found that both lr and mag rounds from the same boxes of ammo will fire very reliably out of my other guns of the same calibers, but i do sometimes have misfires, usually light-strikes, in my Heritage with those same boxes of ammo. I'd blame the gun, not the ammo. Heriages are great for the price, but there's a reason they're a lot cheaper than all the other options
that is a different problem.
there is sometimes a clocking issue with the strikers on some heritages. there are also cylinder gap problems, that might be the cause.
Yeah you get what you pay for with a $100 revolver, but goddamn they're a lot of fun.
You could certainly have a gunsmith sort it out, but you'd probably pay more than you paid for the gun. Doesn't mean you shouldn't do it if you like the gun though.
the price of the Ruger .22 SAA has gone down so it may be worth buying over a heritage. you could also go retro-cowboy with hind sight and buy a top-break, as they have better handling ergonomics.
whats retro-cowboy with hindsight mean? top breaks are completely consistent with the exact same period of time as SAAs
check the history of top break revolvers (they didn't make it for cowboys)
you can still buy a magnum cylinder.
>check the history of top break revolvers (they didn't make it for cowbo
By-and-large that's true, top break was more of a Euro thing, but there were factory top breaks like the S&W Model 3 in the 1870's, and during the 1880's and 1890's gunsmiths in the American West were modifying gate-loading revolvers into top breaks on a custom pistol-by-pistol basis. Not very common though
break action revolvers have existed everywhere since cartridges did, cowboys too. SAA was never good.
Yeah I only have my Heritage because I inhereted it, but if I were to buy a rimfire revolver brand new, I'd buy a Ruger. New Taurus .22 revolvers are also cheap and reliable (fight me on that opinion if you want), but I'd still go Ruger for the aesthetic.
I trust Ruger, but I don't tarus for much of anything. I can't complain because I got my revovler (see above) as a gift and I will just shoot it to death. honestly I am way more hyped to eventually get my own black-hawk with spare 9mm cylinder.
Well that's interesting. I have never had any issues using .22 short or lr out of it, but that would make sense. Mine is like pic rel but less shiny. Is it possible to fix the cylinder issues or is that how its going to be?
no, call the manufacturer and hope you didn't buy it second hand. they should have sent a proofing to show you if there is a problem.
if you want to see what I am talking about, fire it a few times and pull out the cylinder. if the off-gas soot ring is perfectly symmetrical on the face of the cylinder, yours is fine. it is normally a clocking issue with the frame and not the cylinder.
>second hand
It only cost me like $100 so I'm not too worried lol. Guess I'll stick to .22 lr. Cool to see it taken apart like that though.
just a further point my revovler is the stock model .22LR/L/S but it is called .22 cal because I have a magnum cylinder. it works for all .22 cal revovlers made by them that are 6 shot.
The revolver I'm referencing is the picrel in
Better than 5.7
fact
fuck outta my armored meat board with this gay bullet shit
clown
I prefer .22lr for coyotes to preserve the fur the otherwise I don't have much use.
Nice. What range do you usually cap coyotes at with .22lr
I meant 22 magnum*
I don't know about the other anon but I normally do it at 100 yards, I also live int the South where 300 yard straits are a rarity.