2 Framing questions

1. Can I put up drywall on this box or does the bottom need more support than the 4 corners?

79in long (6.6ft), 24in wide (2 ft)

2. Do I need support for the drywall all the way to the edge to the wall where the railing is coming out of

(14.5in long gap)

250 Piece Survival Gear First Aid Kit

LifeStraw Water Filter for Hiking and Preparedness

250 Piece Survival Gear First Aid Kit

  1. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Other angle

  2. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    what gomer put a wall in place of a garage door without removing the door track? go dig in your couch cushions, scrounge enough change to buy an old hacksaw at a pawn shop and cut that shit off

    • 4 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Listen I will respectfully inform you of the story in the objective. The first I need answers to the 2 technical questions in OP.

      • 4 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        okay I'll bite, although I know nothing of framing or drywall installation. You should add a few boards to keep the drywall from moving in relation to the walls where it touches them, otherwise it could shake like the membrane of a drum, in response to loud noises or other vibrations the home experiences, such as from a train passing or low flying aircraft. This movement could ruin any sort of spackle and paint that might be eventually applied to the corners.

        • 4 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          The wall parallel to the track is cinder block if you look closely, the two along the top wouldn't be necessary either if he drilled into wood supports in the ceiling - lateral bracing would be recommended though.

          • 4 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            homie u dum
            don't reply to me or my posts ever again

            • 4 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              I'll give you (you)s and there's nothing you can do to stop me wiener mongler

  3. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    You'd probably want to add another 2x4 midway through the long side to add some reinforcement, but other than that assuming you drilled into solid wood on the ceiling side it should be fine. It really would be much easier to just cut off the track with a hacksaw or sawzall and patch the point where it comes in.

    • 4 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      If the drywall were somewhere accessible there's no way I would leave it just like that. But it seems to be tucked up and away in a corner where it's unlikely to get hit by anything, so you can get away with less. I would at the very least anchor blocks to the right wall to secure the corners of the drywall because it's very likely that over time due to the house settling or the drywall warping that the boards would come apart along the edge if there's nothing holding them together.

      If the drywall were somewhere accessible there's no way I would leave it just like that. But it seems to be tucked up and away in a corner where it's unlikely to get hit by anything, so you can get away with less. I would at the very least anchor blocks to the right wall to secure the corners of the drywall because it's very likely that over time due to the house settling or the drywall warping that the boards would come apart along the edge if there's nothing holding them together.

      https://i.imgur.com/OnvjIxK.jpeg

      okay I'll bite, although I know nothing of framing or drywall installation. You should add a few boards to keep the drywall from moving in relation to the walls where it touches them, otherwise it could shake like the membrane of a drum, in response to loud noises or other vibrations the home experiences, such as from a train passing or low flying aircraft. This movement could ruin any sort of spackle and paint that might be eventually applied to the corners.

      1. It will be fine if covered by drywall because the drywall will add stiffness. It would be better if the bottom 2x4 was oriented such that the ‘4’ side was facing us. Stronger.
      You probably want one or two center-bottom studs attached to the wall to that outside corner stud. Drywall has a tendency to sag.

      2. You definitely need something stubbed onto the wall there where the door used to be.

      The wall parallel to the track is cinder block if you look closely, the two along the top wouldn't be necessary either if he drilled into wood supports in the ceiling - lateral bracing would be recommended though.

      Thank you for your contribution to this thread. To prevent sagging there will be a horizontal brace in the center attaching to the concrete wall.

      Will put one 2x4 in the lower corner to close the 14-in gap and attaching it to the drywall with the rail.

      We are renovating my girlfriend's parents garage into a room. And keeping the garage door intact to their request. I will make a shelf that comes off of this so the room has utility and it Blends in better.

      • 4 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        >We are renovating my girlfriend's parents garage into a room. And keeping the garage door intact to their request.

        so your probably not undoing it the next 5 years, maybe never. why not srew off the rails from the garage door and put them into the drywall so they can be reatached if the room is demolished and used as garage again.

        • 4 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          The garage rails are riveted together not screwed.

          The wall was put up when I was gone, so any other acess point it cut off.

          It's alright

      • 4 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        >We are renovating my girlfriend's parents garage into a room. And keeping the garage door intact to their request.
        Oh, it's boomers. That explains it. Say no more senpai

        • 4 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          >boomers
          Thank you for understanding the circumstances

  4. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    If the drywall were somewhere accessible there's no way I would leave it just like that. But it seems to be tucked up and away in a corner where it's unlikely to get hit by anything, so you can get away with less. I would at the very least anchor blocks to the right wall to secure the corners of the drywall because it's very likely that over time due to the house settling or the drywall warping that the boards would come apart along the edge if there's nothing holding them together.

  5. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    1. It will be fine if covered by drywall because the drywall will add stiffness. It would be better if the bottom 2x4 was oriented such that the ‘4’ side was facing us. Stronger.
    You probably want one or two center-bottom studs attached to the wall to that outside corner stud. Drywall has a tendency to sag.

    2. You definitely need something stubbed onto the wall there where the door used to be.

  6. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Two things. First, there needs to be wood at all drywall edges and joints. And second, you shouldn't have drywall be unsupported for any more than 2 feet, less if possible.

    Add wood where the red lines are.

    • 2 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      https://i.imgur.com/OnvjIxK.jpeg

      okay I'll bite, although I know nothing of framing or drywall installation. You should add a few boards to keep the drywall from moving in relation to the walls where it touches them, otherwise it could shake like the membrane of a drum, in response to loud noises or other vibrations the home experiences, such as from a train passing or low flying aircraft. This movement could ruin any sort of spackle and paint that might be eventually applied to the corners.

      https://i.imgur.com/8PcCP22.jpeg

      1. Can I put up drywall on this box or does the bottom need more support than the 4 corners?

      79in long (6.6ft), 24in wide (2 ft)

      2. Do I need support for the drywall all the way to the edge to the wall where the railing is coming out of

      (14.5in long gap)

      https://i.imgur.com/5eq1hij.jpeg

      Other angle

      https://i.imgur.com/jU66vMu.jpeg

      >The thing about removing the rails completely is that we want the garage door to stay there for exterior Aesthetics.
      captcha WAJJJ

      https://i.imgur.com/as0GW7q.jpeg

      Today I disconnected the motor. I believe it was electrically disconnected previously. The other rail is also enclosed.

      The thing about removing the rails completely is that we want the garage door to stay there for exterior Aesthetics.

      They're making an illegal AirBnB, aren't they. Some poor bastard is going to pay $200 to spend a night in that cold moldy garage
      This board is always good for keks and lols and a few lmaos

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Bingo

  7. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Couldn't you make a bigass floating shelf to cover the rail and at least be able to store stuff up there rather than that giant wasted.space of a sheetrock box?

    • 4 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      he could leave the left side of the box open and stuff shit in the hole if he really wanted to make use of the space. Anyway it's a moot point because if you're attaching things to the ceiling of your garage for lack of storage space anywhere else you probably have a lot of useless shit that you should just sell or get rid.

  8. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Just curious. What did they/you/whoever do with the garage door opener? What about the other garage door rail? Will you have that enclosed as well?

    • 4 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      Today I disconnected the motor. I believe it was electrically disconnected previously. The other rail is also enclosed.

      The thing about removing the rails completely is that we want the garage door to stay there for exterior Aesthetics.

      • 4 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        >The thing about removing the rails completely is that we want the garage door to stay there for exterior Aesthetics.
        So then screw the garage door panels into the door jamb then take the rails off.

        • 4 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          instructions unclear, too late I got my dick stuck in the fan

      • 4 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        your drywall hanging down in front of the window is going to end up in the abominations thread

        • 3 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          Jesus frick you're an idiot

          https://i.imgur.com/gRHn5Cz.jpeg

          What the frick are you even doing Black person

          The rails are sloped so to have a flat top it has to edge into the window a little bit

          • 3 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            there is no world where putting a soffit over a window is the best solution.

            • 3 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              >over a window

              It's 1 inch on a 50inch window.

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                whats the cutoff then? 4in?

              • 3 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                Less than 10% square space.

      • 4 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        Jesus frick you're an idiot

      • 4 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        What the frick are you even doing Black person

        • 4 weeks ago
          Anonymous

          Everyone blames the boomer parents, but they might have a point about keeping the door; maybe it saves money, or maybe they like the look. However. The fact that OP couldn't figure out a way to do that and also get rid of the fricking rails tells you this: OP IS A FRICKING MORON.

          This is the sort of shit we see here that has to be a troll, but the pics are too real.

          • 4 weeks ago
            Anonymous

            > they might have a point about keeping the door
            Agreed anon. They probably think someday they will move out and they want the option of having a garage again.

            • 4 weeks ago
              Anonymous

              There is no door left

              • 4 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                > And keeping the garage door intact to their request.
                Reading comprehension is not for everyone.

              • 2 weeks ago
                Anonymous

                https://i.imgur.com/5eq1hij.jpeg

                Other angle

                Where's the frickin door anon? You said there would be a door

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        You are the dumbest monkey on this board. Cut the rails off and stop fricking around. Jesus Christ.
        It's less job to reattach them later than making this full blown schizo setup of stupidity

      • 2 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        >The thing about removing the rails completely is that we want the garage door to stay there for exterior Aesthetics.
        captcha WAJJJ

  9. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    OP you are going to spend way more in materials to cover the rails and lose head space in the garage than just cutting them off and buying new rails if they were to ever be used again.

    cut them off, man

  10. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    why bother framing them in at all
    just use them as a clothes hanger
    converted garages are already white trash so you might as well embrace it

  11. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Just when you thought you had seen it all.
    I loved fixing houses for a living…homeowners ruined it

  12. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    You'll need cleats on the walls and ceiling. Give yourself something to nail to on every edge of drywall if you want to tape it.

  13. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    It's a city ordinance thing. You cannot park your car in front of your house if it is not in front of a retaining wall or a garage door. Driveways are usually to the side of a house. Next time you look at a rowhouse, notice how they will all have garage doors.

    • 4 weeks ago
      Anonymous
      • 4 weeks ago
        Anonymous

        It's not a driveway when it's a roundabout. Also usually those bylaws do not apply to properties without frontage on public roads.

  14. 4 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Just add two furring strips parallel of the rail, under the box you made, all the way to the wall. One along the wall itself and one closest to the camera. You dont need a third row or runners across, and the overhang from the furring strip will hold the drywall fine but you might want to add a transverse block screwed to the wall to minimize the risks of the joint cracking.

  15. 3 weeks ago
    Anonymous

    Regarding drywalling - anyone have any practical experience/knowledge with the kind of noise reduction normal wall construction give you? I want my wall between bedrooms to be pretty quiet, but I dont know if just one sheet of 5/8 (or even two) and insulation is gonna get me what I want, if I go by STC rating lab tested assemblies at least.

    I basically want it quiet enough so that louder talking and snoring is muffled well to be mostly ignorable on the other side.

    • 3 weeks ago
      Anonymous

      >the kind of noise reduction normal wall construction give you?
      It's virtually nothing. Both wood studs and drywall panels are very rigid, so they transmit sound easily. If you want to stop sound transmission through a wall you need 2 layers that are not physically connected to each other in any way. Either by just building 2 walls with a small gap in between them, or by building a single wall with alternating studs (so no studs are shared by both wall surfaces) like in the attached pic and pack the cavities with fiberglass insulation to dampen vibrations in the unsupported sections of drywall.

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *