how do these power supplies work?
do i just cut a normal power cable, connect the + - and ground to the psu and it shits out converted power?
12v psu
how do these power supplies work?
do i just cut a normal power cable, connect the + - and ground to the psu and it shits out converted power?
i want to use one of these to power the car seat for my sim rig
and maybe blow up and airbag or 2
I use a Mean Well PSU for the LED light strips in my home theater.
It's a good brand, works as it's supposed to ... PCM dimmer, the whole shebang.
you're going to electrocute yourself.
>normal power cable
>+ - ground
Don't do it, you were not meant to work on electronics.
>do i just cut a normal power cable, connect the + - and ground to the psu
please live stream doing that.
i dont get whats wrong
using picrel should work just fine no?
re-read the panel above the screw terminals. then think about it.
so i did some googling and came to the conclusion that it doesnt matter how i connect the L and N terminals since its AC
so im going to do just that
it's common (or maybe even a standard) to put the fuse on the line side rather than the neutral side. it'll still blow in either case, but the line side is safer. https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/542736/placement-of-fuse-on-neutral-wire-why
That's interesting but probably not relevant for OP because he can plug it in both ways.
You hook it to the live and neutral (L and N).
Jumper the ground to plus or minus depending on how you want to bias the thing, usually you ground the minus but for telecom gear you usually ground the plus. You do want either positive or negative to be grounded elsewise the voltage can float. You can end up with unexpected things like 60v on minus and 72v on positive, still 12v difference between the two and most things wont care but then you get shocked or come comms line from one bit of gear causes havoc when talking to another bit of gear or whatever.
Never jumper neutral to ground because that could cause a circuit breaker not to function in the event of a fault.
For cheap ungrounded gear sometimes the neutral is attached to the case, and sometimes things are designed such that the neutral is more likely to short to the case. Often times switches will only turn off the neutral meaning internally things are still hot even when switched off.
If you are 240v you likely have split phase where both are hot and there is no neutral so whatever.
When you cut open your cable you will probably see black white and green, black is hot, white is neutral and green is ground. If you see blue brown and green/yellow then by convention 120 blue is neutral, brown is hot and green/yellow is ground. Again on 240 both brown and blue are probably hot. Be aware that sometimes chink shit cables don't follow convention and sometimes shitty PrepHole tier PrepHole electricians get neutral and hot backwards in your home wiring.
>Posts kettle lead with europoor plug
>Likely to have spilt phase
Anon I...
If 3 fase then he is in trouble, if 3fase+N the it's fine , monofase too
>it doesnt matter how i connect the L and N terminals since its AC
no it does.
Not OP here, I don't get what's wrong either.
You'd just have to take a power cable with a polarized plug, cut the end of the cable that's opposite the plug, figure out which wire connects to the live prong of the plug and which connects to neutral, and screw the wire ends to the L and N screw terminals respectively, right? And do the same with ground, if ground is available. What's missing here?
he wants to plug it in to the + and - dipstick
that's the output.
>Jumper the ground to plus or minus depending on how you want to bias the thing,
WHAT!? no you don't jumper the ground to plus or minus. look you really don't know what you are talking about.
did you really all think i was going to plug it into the fricking outputs?
obviously i meant the LN and ground terminals on the psu
im on 230v AC and i dont see how it matters which way i connect the cables to it since its literally the same shit on both + and -
>did you really all think i was going to plug it into the fricking outputs?
yes
words and symbols mean things. plus and minus is NOT the same as line and neutral
>obviously i meant the LN and ground terminals on the psu
not obvious at all, there are many morons that come here.
It takes a moronic person to call live + and neutral -, so there was a fair chance you were also dumb enough to hook up live to V+. And you continue to say dumb shit, despite people providing you with explanations, so evidently you really aren't far beyond the level of hooking up live to V+.
>i dont get whats wrong
Yeah we know, and that's the problem. Get someone else to do it for you.
The Dunning-Kruger effect in action
look skippy you will be connecting it wrong, so why don't you do some research don't just hook shit up. we aren't going to tell you so you will learn something.
You're supposed to have a third pin on that plug for grounding.
That's what the ground symbol is for on the PSU.
The ground wire in the cord will be bare, green, or yellow and green coded usually.
You can also attach your DC negative side to this.
Do not attach AC hot, AC neutral, or DC positive to this.
>You're supposed to have a third pin on that plug for grounding.
Examine the plug in the picture, and you will see it is a Schuko, which means the grounding is either done from the side or a pin coming out of the socket.
>You're supposed to have a third pin on that plug for grounding.
There is a third pin AND A FOURTH, you can see the indentations on the top and bottom of the plug, there's contacts there and in the outlet that are the ground. There is also a hole on this jack, that's for schizos like Czechs who have a ground prong inside the fricking outlet for reasons beyond my comprehension.
Pic related. SCHVKO, the white man's plug. Apparently the prong in the socket is for Poles, Czechs, Slovaks, French and Danes have their own variant of it as well that looks like a fricking smiling face.
You have the general idea, yeah. I dunno why everyone else is sperging out. You might electrocute yourself if you frick up, but that is always the case when you're working on anything electrical.
Cut your power cable, strip back each wire and hook them up to line (L), neutral (N), and ground. The + and - terminals will be outputting 12V DC. Wire your low voltage load to those.
Thank goodness the Helpful Boomer showed up to spoonfeed the moron, so we're sure to get lots more spoonfeed posts in the future, and the Helpful Boomer can always prove how smart he is on every subject.
This board totally isn't shit at all.
Yeah, god forbid someone answers a beginner diy question on the diy board. Frick off, gatekeeping homosexual
there is no "gatekeeping" in this thread. OP needed to do a simple google and his question would have been answered.
99% of the questions posted here could be answered by google. That doesn't mean people won't get useful input from someone who has worked on the same thing before. I suggest you stop getting mad because there are discussions that you don't personally glean any insight from.
There's nothing to be gained in spoonfeeding morons. (It was likely a troll post from reddit/9gag/wherever it is that shits up the whole site continuously and constantly with the complicity of the mods.) You just wanted to show off how smart you are.
>Look at me.
>I'm the helpful boomer.
>I know everything about everything.
>Here you are, young lad, let me do the thinking for you while I import the third world to do the jobs you're too stupid to handle.
Go have a stroke or something.
You're way madder than this situation and your arguments are incoherent.
>this question is too stupid to warrant a post
>you only replied because you wanted to look smart
Pick one, moron
>misses the point entirely even after writing it out in the simplest terms available
>calls other people moron
Anyone who earnestly uses the word “gatekeeping” absolutely needs to be gatekept off this site in general and PrepHole in particular.
yes
They will take 100 to 200 V AC on the line side and it doesn't matter if you feed 2 hots, 1 hot 1 neutral, or the order you attach them to. They shit out 12V DC +V to -V. Measure the load you'll be pulling and size the wire accordingly so you don't burn it up (you can use multiple terminals to feed multiple wires to make up for lack of wire gauge). If the device you're using is sensitive to voltage like 12.4 vs 12.7 you can use the V adj screw on the far right to tune the output accurately. I use these little shits for work all the time and they're moron tier easy to manage.
Yes...and you can adjust the screw to fine tune the voltage. If you're driving motors you probably want an overrated supply...know the peak current for your use case.
It's be nice if MeanWell provided a little plastic guard for the terminals. Yeah yeah nothing should be energized if the case is open, but reality doesn't work like that, and I worry about dropping a screw onto the live terminals so I cover them with Kapton tape.
op here, turns out the seat wasnt electric after all
so i guess you were all seething over nothing
thanks to the anons that tried to help tho
>turns out the seat wasnt electric after all
moron
in my defense, the manual and electric versions of this seat look exactly the same
only difference is that the electric one has 2 more small buttons on the seat
Read the data sheet, get a switch with a fuse, make an enclosure for it. Picrel is the on switch.